Track rod and drag link lengths

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scottonthefen

Well-Known Member
Posts
532
Location
England
My series workshop manual gives the lengths the track rod and drag link should be between the centre of each ball joint. Any diagrams of the swivel or steering assembly also show the steering arm bracket mounted underneath the swivel assemblies.

I have a late 2A. My steering arm brackets are mounted on top of my swivels. When I measured the track rod and drag links today they were both over an inch over length. (I have not driven this Landy yet as I am restoring it, but yet, stood down the drive looking at it, the wheels do look a bit "toed" out..).

I think if I set both lengths to what the manual says they'll be close enough until it goes to a garage and can have the tracking done properly, but I'm just curious about these specified lengths. Would the correct lengths be different to those in the book where you have top mounted steering arm brackets?
 
My series workshop manual gives the lengths the track rod and drag link should be between the centre of each ball joint. Any diagrams of the swivel or steering assembly also show the steering arm bracket mounted underneath the swivel assemblies.

I have a late 2A. My steering arm brackets are mounted on top of my swivels. When I measured the track rod and drag links today they were both over an inch over length. (I have not driven this Landy yet as I am restoring it, but yet, stood down the drive looking at it, the wheels do look a bit "toed" out..).

I think if I set both lengths to what the manual says they'll be close enough until it goes to a garage and can have the tracking done properly, but I'm just curious about these specified lengths. Would the correct lengths be different to those in the book where you have top mounted steering arm brackets?
they would be the same but drag link and track rod would need setting using tracking gear
 
Cheers James. Prompt as ever! ;) I'll definitely have the tracking done properly once I can drive her to a garage. Until then I'll set the longer length according to the book as you recommend, and the shorter one to fit.
 
I did my own tracking. But I am a barmpot.

Piece of fishing line tied round an axle stand just low enough to pass under the hub caps etc to an axle stand at the front of the car. adjust each axle stand until the line passes the rear wheel rim evenly at its front and back point. I think I chose 20mm or sumat coz the tyre wall gets in the ruddy way.
Once double and triple checked its spot on thou can measure the points as it passes the front wheel and adjust as required. I was going to take it in to have it done with super laser space ships and surgeons but I aint bovered yet and its stopped eating tyres.

track.jpg
 
I tried a similar method but wasn't happy with it. The steering wasn't right despite all new ball joints and setting the steering box. Eventually I had it laser aligned and it did make a difference. I think it cost me thirty odd quid which was better than arsing around with it for hours.

Col
 
I tried a similar method but wasn't happy with it. The steering wasn't right despite all new ball joints and setting the steering box. Eventually I had it laser aligned and it did make a difference. I think it cost me thirty odd quid which was better than arsing around with it for hours.

Col

Yup, work out the price of your time ...
 
I don't mind doing this to double check the alignment I get from using the lengths in the book. I've got plenty of fishing line laying about, haven't been much since I got the Land Rover. :p
 
After working on steering I do the tracking using planks of wood propped up on bricks. You can get it pretty close and certainly good enough to drive until you get to a laser tracking set up.
 
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