Double Cardon Front Propshaft / Transmission Problem

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volvo_saint

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Posts
21
Location
Malta
I fitted a Britpart 2inch lift kit with the adjusted radius arms etc...and then found that over 40mph there was a noticable vibration coming from transmission....

what actually happened is that due to the 2 inch lift the standard front propshaft angle to the axle is too acute and causes bad vibrations...

I have been told that I need to fit a double cardon propshaft from a Discovery to fix this problem.... my vehicle is 110 with Tdi300 power.

Has anyone else had similiar problems? and why do companies that sell lift kits neglect the transmission parts which should be ugraded?

Where can I find a double cardon propshaft modified for a 110?

Can I fit a wide angle propshaft as advertised by QT services?
 
with a 2" lift, you don't need modified radius arms or props.
I suspect that yer prop UJ is fooked anyway and the slight extra strain from the lift has exacerbated the problem.
 
I dont think the UJ were knackered - I have put a new Tdi300 front propshaft but the problem remained. I have removed the front propshaft and the car is running well - albeit in rear wheel drive only.... don't the new defenders and discovery's have the double cardon propshaft in the front?
 
Same problem for me - I have tried all the fancy props - wide angle and double carden - vibration got a bit less but still got it. I am going back to normal ride height. Some Landys can take it, some can't and there is little explanation as to why. I even burnt out the output flanges in my t box as well as UJ's in the prop - and it's only a bloody 2 inch lift.

SCIENCE: When the prop angles go out of synch ONLY a CV joint propshaft will allow boh ends of the prop to synch with each rotation (turn together at constant speed) - UJ's have a cyclic speed change with each rotation, and as the angle gets sharper at one end (t box), that cyclic difference in speed per rotation get's bigger. There are custom CV prop makers out there - Propshaft Technology I believe. I might try it, but it's a lot of expense in trial and error for a suspension lift. Body lift might be better. Read this and weep - I did!
 
Standard suspension has been tried and tested and works. If ye want to do a lift, change the tyres. At the end of the day, ye can lift yer suspension / body but the diffs will always let ye down!:rolleyes:;):D
 
i run a 2" lift on my 90 using the standard radius arms and have no problems with the front propshaft even at 70mph !
if i was you i would fit the standard radius arms as you dont really the Castor Correction Radius Arms for a 2" lift, that could solve your vibration problem
 
I have a 2" lift on my 90 with std radius arms and have'nt had any problem, your caster corection radius arms will make the prop angle worse, swap them back for your std ones. Bit of useless info here; I work for Tata steels (formally Corus/British steel) and was showing someone to our reception area last week, it's the first time i've been in there for over 5yrs! and in the reception there are a load of glass cabinates showing what our steel goes into, steering racks, A380 landing gear parts, Scania gearbox parts and Landrover Radius Arms! So your all of your radius arms started life in Rotherham!:)
 
They are right about castor correction - it increases the angles on the prop ends and makes it worse - I used castor correction bushes and they made my problem alot worse so I took them off. Buster is on the money - tried and tested is best.

Can I ask, is your 110 the original TD model - ie pre 200tdi, with a 300tdi fitted. I ask, because I have noticed that the TD models seem to be the worst for this vibration issue after a lift - could be the chassis/engine mount/gearbox mount set-up.

Anyway, Merry Christmas!
 
Hey Jamesyboy,

Hows you Chap?

I have an unwanted noise nowdays fitted prop shaft UJ's that were good opposed to the knackared ones previously running. It seems much better however I think I have a dodgy front diff. The flange and pinion seem ok however I think it has been run fooked before my time and knackared the pinion teeth so will swap it out one day. On the long and growing list..... Tranny box, split charge completion of wiring, accesories wiring, winch wiring, the list is looooong but getting there slowly!
 
Hey Jai - are you getting a sort of rumbling/whirring noise re the pinion? I think the tighter the set-up, the more the stress on the t-box. My wee 90 goes in on the 14th for the chassis. I'll get EVERYTHING done to her while she's there - I need a stress free 2011 ! Will probably end up with a 300tdi chassis. IF I went for 24 spline defo or disco axles - will I need to change my output flanges and props?
 
No should fit fine however if you fit discovery 300 series rear axle you will need a new flange. Remember that 110 24 spline rear axles are Salisbury axles and not rover type and need a bit of faffing to fit with no issues. Also worth a note is Paddocks Propshafts DO NOT have the same wide angle as standard fitment Landrover propshafts. Have found this to be the case on series motors and I believe thats why Spydermans propshaft spat it out when at full droop.
 
Reviving the post from 2010.

I fitted a double cardan propshaft to the front of my 110 and this resolved the issues - but now I have to replace a universal joint.

Problem is the dual cardan propshaft is not standard - it was bought originally from the Land Rover Orphanage but they are now defunct - so I am unable to identify the current propshaft.

Can anybody identify the prop shaft?
 

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Another Pic of the busted UJ - it appears to be made in the USA.

The diameter of the UJ is approx 93mm and the cup size is 28.6mm.
 

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if its a td5 double cardon it can be rebuilt with greasable ujs. There is a thread about it on a different website. You can do a search or i will get the link when i go to work tomorrow (its saved on my work device)
 
I have a DC front prop on my 110.

Bought it direct from Bailey Morris.

Not cheap at nearly £400 mind!
 
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