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Door removal - rusty screws

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by v8250, Nov 24, 2020.

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  1. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to be removing the driver & passengers doors from my D90 to replace the door screws with a security set, clean the area up, fit new hinge seals & shims...and re-align the doors. I'm expecting them all to be rascals to remove and 2no screws have messed up cross heads. Are there specific techniques and/or tools you've used when completing this?

    Thank you
    v8250

    PS already have PlusGas, MAPGas and impact driver at the ready
     
  2. potus

    potus Well-Known Member

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    If they don't shift with impact driver, grinder with cutting disc, buy new hinges.
     
    Hicap phill and v8250 like this.
  3. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks @potus , have had this thought in back of mind too as they're not very expensive

    eta: have a set of hinge security plates to fit as well...
     
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  4. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    I managed to get all mine out with the impact driver but I would try drilling the heads off first before the grinder attack.
     
    Andy J and v8250 like this.
  5. TR3a

    TR3a Active Member

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    I just drilled the heads off mine. The screws are not hard and drill easily with high speed steel drill bits.
     
    Andy J and v8250 like this.
  6. Dr Strangeglove

    Dr Strangeglove Member

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    Please let us know how you get on. I have the same to do myself!
     
  7. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    Plus gas and impact driver shifted mine, well all bar one which I drilled the heads off then get mole grips on the thread fine and it was okay then.
    I replaced with stainless fixings but I cheated out on the hinges and they are now rusty :(
     
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  8. miktdish

    miktdish Well-Known Member

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    Like @flat said, use a penetrating oil and an impact driver. I've used the old fashioned manual version and a decent sized hammer but the Makita cordless would work fine too.
     
  9. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    yeah I used the manual ‘smack it with a hammer’ version.

    soon work out if your bulkhead is rusted out or not with one of those :D
     
    frog hopper likes this.
  10. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Therein lies a problem...the existing hinges are not rusty, I had planned to buzz these back and repaint. I really like the alloy billet hinges out there but, by Jove!, they're jolly pricey. Have noted that YRM offer st/st hinges...I like the idea if these with the security plates, simply paint up and fit and save a few ££££'s https://yrmit.co.uk/product/stainless-steel-front-row-door-hinges-land-rover-defender/
     
  11. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    hadnt heard of those, those are nice!
     
  12. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    What are these hinge security plates you keep mentioning by the way?
     
  13. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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  14. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    Cool, photos when you have installed please!!!
     
  15. mick the builder

    mick the builder Well-Known Member

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    I cant see how these work. If you try to unscrew the bulkhead side of the hinge, i see that they will stop the door from being removed but what if you just remove the door side screws
     
    Stone56 likes this.
  16. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    how would you? You would need to bust the window to get a spanner on the nuts inside
     
  17. mick the builder

    mick the builder Well-Known Member

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    Or drill the tops of the screws with a cordless
     
  18. flat

    flat Well-Known Member

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    hammer a ball bearing in?

    the best deterrent I think is having rusty doors :D
     
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  19. Colthebrummie

    Colthebrummie Well-Known Member

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    What I want to know is, who is going round stealing doors?

    Col
     
  20. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    Pentrating oil every day for a week. On the inside if you can get a tube to it. Impact driver. Then drill head off. Heat the bit sticking out, poke a hole in one of those soldering mats, more penetrating oil (shocks it and gets drawn in as it cools) them heat again and mole grips.
     
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