door lock, disabling super locking

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dogsbody

dogsbody

Very senior member
Posts
10,678
Location
Bristol
I've currently got my driver's door lock on the bench. My intention is to disable the super locking before it causes any issues. As far as I can see the small motor pulls a pawl back to allow the lock to travel further.
Firstly is this is correct?
Then, if I removes the pins that the motor drive engages onto will I have disabled the super locking but still given the BECM/door outstation a motor to power, thereby avoiding any faults being created? Or am I liable still to get a fault as the motor won't stall?
 
Neither do I but have you seen the number of posts on here (and elsewhere) about these cars super locking themselves. As I've got the door apart doing a few bits I thought I'd grab the chance.
 
dogsbody said:
Neither do I but have you seen the number of posts on here (and elsewhere) about these cars super locking themselves. As I've got the door apart doing a few bits I thought I'd grab the chance.
Click to expand...

If you got the updated reciver the chances of that happening are minimal .
 
Grit Valve said:
If you got the updated reciver the chances of that happening are minimal .
Click to expand...

+1
and if you've got a good strong battery the chances of it happening and then draining before you get back to unlock it are minimal.
I always superlock and have never had a problem (since installing a new RF :p )
 
dogsbody said:
I've currently got my driver's door lock on the bench. My intention is to disable the super locking before it causes any issues. As far as I can see the small motor pulls a pawl back to allow the lock to travel further.
Firstly is this is correct?
Then, if I removes the pins that the motor drive engages onto will I have disabled the super locking but still given the BECM/door outstation a motor to power, thereby avoiding any faults being created? Or am I liable still to get a fault as the motor won't stall?
Click to expand...
Let us know if you succeed, I would like to disable super locking on mine when I finally have to do the drivers door lock.
 
Datatek said:
Let us know if you succeed, I would like to disable super locking on mine when I finally have to do the drivers door lock.
Click to expand...

I ran out of time (and nerves) to do it this weekend and had to rebuild the car so that I could secure it so it'll have to wait for a couple of weeks.

However now my thinking is that, as I never deliberately use super-lock, if I ever do get a fault it'll be because the car has tried to do it itself. In that case I'd accept a fault as a good alternative to possibly having to cut my way into the car.

Mind you, on the same basis, would I be just as well to cut the supply to the super-lock motor? Same result but a lot quicker and simpler. It's tempting.
 
dogsbody said:
I ran out of time (and nerves) to do it this weekend and had to rebuild the car so that I could secure it so it'll have to wait for a couple of weeks.

However now my thinking is that, as I never deliberately use super-lock, if I ever do get a fault it'll be because the car has tried to do it itself. In that case I'd accept a fault as a good alternative to possibly having to cut my way into the car.

Mind you, on the same basis, would I be just as well to cut the supply to the super-lock motor? Same result but a lot quicker and simpler. It's tempting.
Click to expand...
From what I can see, that should work unless the system monitors motor current, but I would prefer to mechanically disable the feature just on the drivers door to ensure there was no way it could ever super lock due to vibration etc.
 
Im replaceing mine this weekend and would like any advice youve aquired about doing this as its somthing id look into
Besides nobody breaks into cars theses days they just rob the keys
 
gfromleeds said:
Im replaceing mine this weekend and would like any advice youve aquired about doing this as its somthing id look into
Besides nobody breaks into cars theses days they just rob the keys
Click to expand...

If you're replacing the lock assembly then the only problem that I had was getting the lock out of the door without using a tin opener! I couldn't believe that there were so many wrong ways of getting it past the window guides. Then the cill knob managed to rotate on it's rod without me noticing and got me doubting myself when I came to rebuild and, with the knob facing the correct way, the rod wouldn't meet up with the lock.
Oh, and the tweeter assembly. Lever off carefully then take the metal grip off the plastic and put it into the door. Then, when re-assembling, press the assembly back into it. If you leave the metal grip on the plastic you have to press it back onto the door so hard that you're liable to crack the outer plastic - so I've been told :eek:
 
O.K. I'm not the world's quickest worker but I've disabled my super locking without inducing any faults.
As I said before I didn't want to chance cutting wiring or removing a motor in case that generated a fault. Well, with the lock in bits on the bench I worked out that the small motor spins up and moves a pawl allowing the locking mechanism to travel further than normal. All that I did was to cut the two 'horns' off the pawl so that the motor can still spin but now has no effect.
As for DATATEK's point about vibration causing the lock to operate, the pawl is retained by a small but effective coil spring. On mine this looked to be in perfect condition so on the bench I tried everything I could to get the pawl to release. If it had I was prepared to glue something behind it but I couldn't get the pawl to release, no matter how hard I shocked the lock. So I just left it and rebuilt and replaced the lock.
This was two weeks ago and I can report no problems at all.

One interesting side issue. Since I stripped the lock and replaced the solidified (14 year old) white grease I haven't had my locks 'bounce' as I drive along. Coincidence maybe but only time will tell.
 
dogsbody said:
O.K. I'm not the world's quickest worker but I've disabled my super locking without inducing any faults.
As I said before I didn't want to chance cutting wiring or removing a motor in case that generated a fault. Well, with the lock in bits on the bench I worked out that the small motor spins up and moves a pawl allowing the locking mechanism to travel further than normal. All that I did was to cut the two 'horns' off the pawl so that the motor can still spin but now has no effect.
As for DATATEK's point about vibration causing the lock to operate, the pawl is retained by a small but effective coil spring. On mine this looked to be in perfect condition so on the bench I tried everything I could to get the pawl to release. If it had I was prepared to glue something behind it but I couldn't get the pawl to release, no matter how hard I shocked the lock. So I just left it and rebuilt and replaced the lock.
This was two weeks ago and I can report no problems at all.

One interesting side issue. Since I stripped the lock and replaced the solidified (14 year old) white grease I haven't had my locks 'bounce' as I drive along. Coincidence maybe but only time will tell.
Click to expand...
So that's on my "to do" list. A piccy would have been nice:)
 
Datatek said:
So that's on my "to do" list. A piccy would have been nice:)
Click to expand...

I did try some photos but as the cam in question is black, in a black housing, nothing worthwhile showed up. However I can assure you that with the lock apart on the bench the job is simple, and totally obvious.
 
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