1986 110 -- rear/end door lock

jwrw · Aug 21, 2023

Hi. My rear/end door doesn't lock. It latches OK but the little sliding 'snib' thing that should stop the handle moving doesn't do its job. If you apply enough force to the handle then you can still open it even when it's supposed to be locked. This is on a 1986 110.

I ordered what I thought was a matching lock assembly. The part numbers seemed to match but it isn't the same size, and the mechanism that grabs onto the latch pillar (not sure what the right name for that is) is different. On the new lock the latch is like the rotating ones on the side doors.

I've attached a pic showing the old and new parts. Is there any point in fitting the new one? I'm assuming it's different enough that it won't work. Has anyone experienced/cured the non-locking problem before, please?

Thanks in advance.

James

Hicap phill · Aug 21, 2023

Is the door closing fully? For the door to lock it must engage the second part of the latch.

Simple way to check if the lock is still good, activate the latch system(should latch twice)
You should then be able to use the lock

miktdish · Aug 21, 2023

The new one. in your hand, is already shut.
The crescent part flips up to open and down (like it is) to lock.

What does the striker on the door frame look like ?
This is the one for the new lock ...

Defender Rear Safari Door Latch Striker Plater

Genuine OEM replacement part. <img src="{{media url="wysiwyg/small-Made-in-Britain-logo-Black-and-White.jpg"}}" alt="Made in Britain logo" />

www.exmoortrim.co.uk

jwrw · Aug 28, 2023

miktdish said:
The new one. in your hand, is already shut.
The crescent part flips up to open and down (like it is) to lock.

What does the striker on the door frame look like ?
This is the one for the new lock ...

Defender Rear Safari Door Latch Striker Plater

Genuine OEM replacement part. <img src="{{media url="wysiwyg/small-Made-in-Britain-logo-Black-and-White.jpg"}}" alt="Made in Britain logo" />

www.exmoortrim.co.uk

Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

The striker is in the pic below.

The current lock doesn’t have the crescent shaped part that’s on the new ones. It’s like a flat spring loaded plate that flies up from the bottom when the striker goes into place. Lifting the outside door handle retracts the flat plate until the next time it’s triggered by pressure on the latch. Locking the door with the key makes it slightly harder to lift the handle but you can’t really call it a lock!

Do you think it’s likely that the new lock will work with the old striker? I can’t find out whether the whole design changed at some point.

Thanks again.

jwrw · Aug 28, 2023

Hicap phill said:
Is the door closing fully? For the door to lock it must engage the second part of the latch.

Simple way to check if the lock is still good, activate the latch system(should latch twice)
You should then be able to use the lock

Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

I think it’s latching properly. There’s a flat plate that springs up when you close the door. It’s going all the way up. And lifting the door handle retracts the plate and resets the trigger.

The problem is that turning the lock doesn’t stop you opening the door. It makes it a tiny bit harder to lift the handle but only a very generous person would describe it as ‘locked’.

Hicap phill · Aug 28, 2023

jwrw said:
Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

I think it’s latching properly. There’s a flat plate that springs up when you close the door. It’s going all the way up. And lifting the door handle retracts the plate and resets the trigger.

The problem is that turning the lock doesn’t stop you opening the door. It makes it a tiny bit harder to lift the handle but only a very generous person would describe it as ‘locked’.

But do you get 2 clicks?
If you don’t get 2 clicks they won’t lock on the key or internal lever

jwrw · Aug 28, 2023

Hicap phill said:
But do you get 2 clicks?
If you don’t get 2 clicks they won’t lock on the key or internal lever

Thanks. I’d say it’s more of a single THUNK than a click (or two clicks) but I will check again.

miktdish · Aug 29, 2023

jwrw said:
Do you think it’s likely that the new lock will work with the old striker? I can’t find out whether the whole design changed at some point.

Thanks again.

Get the new striker

jwrw · Aug 29, 2023

miktdish said:
Get the new striker

Thanks!

GilesStokoe · Sep 22, 2024

Did the new striker fit?

I have the same problem - it turns out that a little peg on a rotating barrel that the key barrel fits into has snapped off. This means that it doesn't activate the rocker which is underneath the manual (internal) lock. It is this that actually blocks the lock mechanism. I think that the mech becomes stiff after this because the barrel rotates round to a position it was never supposed to be in, but does not do anything to actually block the lock... it just pushes up against a sliding part of the mech.

Don't seem to be able to buy this lock mechanism anywhere. Can't believe they tooled up for this lock for 1986 production only? Looks like I will have to stump up for lock + striker.

Does the new striker need new drillings? Are all the newer mechanisms the same (see OP picture)... they all look the same but are often advertised for different model years?

1986 110 -- rear/end door lock

jwrw

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Hicap phill

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miktdish

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Defender Rear Safari Door Latch Striker Plater

jwrw

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Defender Rear Safari Door Latch Striker Plater

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jwrw

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Hicap phill

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jwrw

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jwrw

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