1986 110 -- rear/end door lock

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

jwrw

Member
Posts
37
Hi. My rear/end door doesn't lock. It latches OK but the little sliding 'snib' thing that should stop the handle moving doesn't do its job. If you apply enough force to the handle then you can still open it even when it's supposed to be locked. This is on a 1986 110.

I ordered what I thought was a matching lock assembly. The part numbers seemed to match but it isn't the same size, and the mechanism that grabs onto the latch pillar (not sure what the right name for that is) is different. On the new lock the latch is like the rotating ones on the side doors.

I've attached a pic showing the old and new parts. Is there any point in fitting the new one? I'm assuming it's different enough that it won't work. Has anyone experienced/cured the non-locking problem before, please?

Thanks in advance.

James

110NewOldLocks.jpg
 
Is the door closing fully? For the door to lock it must engage the second part of the latch.

Simple way to check if the lock is still good, activate the latch system(should latch twice)
You should then be able to use the lock
 
The new one. in your hand, is already shut.
The crescent part flips up to open and down (like it is) to lock.

What does the striker on the door frame look like ?
This is the one for the new lock ...
 
The new one. in your hand, is already shut.
The crescent part flips up to open and down (like it is) to lock.

What does the striker on the door frame look like ?
This is the one for the new lock ...
Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

The striker is in the pic below.

The current lock doesn’t have the crescent shaped part that’s on the new ones. It’s like a flat spring loaded plate that flies up from the bottom when the striker goes into place. Lifting the outside door handle retracts the flat plate until the next time it’s triggered by pressure on the latch. Locking the door with the key makes it slightly harder to lift the handle but you can’t really call it a lock!

Do you think it’s likely that the new lock will work with the old striker? I can’t find out whether the whole design changed at some point.

Thanks again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9396.jpeg
    IMG_9396.jpeg
    319.1 KB · Views: 67
Is the door closing fully? For the door to lock it must engage the second part of the latch.

Simple way to check if the lock is still good, activate the latch system(should latch twice)
You should then be able to use the lock
Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

I think it’s latching properly. There’s a flat plate that springs up when you close the door. It’s going all the way up. And lifting the door handle retracts the plate and resets the trigger.

The problem is that turning the lock doesn’t stop you opening the door. It makes it a tiny bit harder to lift the handle but only a very generous person would describe it as ‘locked’.
 
Thanks. Sorry for the slow reply — I’ve been away.

I think it’s latching properly. There’s a flat plate that springs up when you close the door. It’s going all the way up. And lifting the door handle retracts the plate and resets the trigger.

The problem is that turning the lock doesn’t stop you opening the door. It makes it a tiny bit harder to lift the handle but only a very generous person would describe it as ‘locked’.
But do you get 2 clicks?
If you don’t get 2 clicks they won’t lock on the key or internal lever
 
Back
Top