Does this look quite right? L322 wishbone elbow

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Rockingit

Active Member
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Somerset
Bushing1.jpg


Obviously the bush is shot, and the lower one will be too, but does it look like the elbow has warped as well? Have yet to take the other side off to compare.

I'm not going to mess about a do a job twice if it needs a new wishbone as well, etc.
 
I will chuck this in. Is that bolt a camber/toe adjuster? So if its been messed with it could look a bit wrong.
What do your tyres look like?

I would spend the time and look at the other side before making any drastic conclusion , it dont take much to do.

J
 
That's fine, it looks 'odd' because it's hanging. There is a ball joint in the bush that allows it to do that as the knuckle articulates.
If you were to jack the knuckle up to normal ride height, you'd see everything straighten up, keep going and it will articulate the other way.
I'd be more bothered about the missing brake caliper return spring....
 
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Put a bar to it and check for movement. I think it's a rose joint by the look of the rubber boot. The angle is down the suspension hanging as said👍
 
The other side looks the same (also with shot bush!) so thanks all for the advice. And I'd not paid any attention to the caliper/s - both sides have missing springs.

But I'm now left with a bit of a mystery - drive over 25ish and the back end behaves like it's on an ice rink, yet I'm not seeing anything that bad. There's no obvious hub/bearing wobbles or noises, seems pretty solid (appreciating that something's need the weight back on to appear). Suggestions welcome!
 
I would suspect its a mixture of all the bushes being worn and wheel alignment and shocks.

They are known to being pretty hard on suspension bushes, its not a light car.
So maybe fix what you can see.

Maybe even the rear subframe bushes are worn too although not heard of it.

J
 
The way I got all my Project P38 suspension checked (prior to MOT), was to ask my local independent to do a dummy MOT for the same price but not log into the DVLA / VOSA system. That way we identified any jobs left to do without getting a fail, which in reality were zero. Then afterwards I waited 45 mins while he did the regular MOT login !!

Cash payment & tip, and all good.
 
Aren't they just anti rattle springs?
They are - but not 'just', they also help the pads withdraw from the disc surface as they flex slightly inwards, the radiussed end drags on the carrier just enough to provide a bit of tension. Helps prevent brake squeal and hotspots.
 
But I'm now left with a bit of a mystery - drive over 25ish and the back end behaves like it's on an ice rink, yet I'm not seeing anything that bad. There's no obvious hub/bearing wobbles or noises, seems pretty solid (appreciating that something's need the weight back on to appear). Suggestions welcome!
You already mentioned the upper hub ball joints, which will cause free movement in the camber (and therefore toe) values, in addition I'd check Tyre pressures, tyre geometry, wheel geometry, wheel bearing, dampers, tie rods in that order. Rear subframe bushes can & do wear but would need to be visibly torn to cause the symptoms you describe.
 
Could also be your suspension calibration is way out diagonally causing it to rock fr to rl if that makes sense.
When I got my first p38 it was like a barge and everyone said it would be shot bushes and airbags. They all looked fine. Recalibrated it and it drove like a new one.
 
So my plan is to replace all four upper/lower hub bushes as they have quite clearly had it, and given that OEM ones are less than a London pint that’s no big deal. (I don’t have an issue with OEM parts for this as the reason for getting this vehicle in the first place is solely as a ‘just in case’ winter vehicle - floods are a way of life here - and realistically it’s likely to be sorn for half the year just to save the tax!)

I’ll then take it for alignment on it’s way to MOT and see what happens thereafter. By the sounds of it from my other thread I may have to sort out steering alignment/sensor as well. Oh, and there’s a slight early stage exhaust blow, too. I may be running out of Christmas…..
 
Any tips on if I'm better off doing it in lower / upper or upper / lower order? Or take both off together for maximum fun and weight?!
 
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