Dodgy front wheel bearing

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J

jerry3

Member
Posts
47
Location
Dorset
When I fitted my new wheels I rocked them to make sure they were seated properly before lowering the car .
The nearside front the wheel was firm on the hub but the whole hub moved.
When driving it does get quite twitchy on the steering and also the abs and traction faults are displayed.
So had a go at it tonight. Couldn't believe how loose the hub nut was . It had been staked but it could only been as tight as the wheel nuts 130 nm .
Can't get the hub off though.
Refitted an old disc with wheel nuts and thumped it but nothing.
Would a normal 3 legged puller be up to the job?
Also was thinking of getting a new hub rather than bearing in case any damage has been done .
Any opinions before I get spending?
 
This might help if you want a new hub. Approx. £200 delivered with Timken bearing and proper 32mm hub nuts instead of the 36mm ons Britpart sell.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/woo-woo-woo-noise-when-cornering.301163/page-2#post-3770261

MrGorsky said:
Just posting this in case it's of some use to someone else.
I emailed the Shop 4 Autoparts people about the quality of their bearings. Just to be absolutely sure I know what I was buying. http://www.shop4autoparts.net/ is the retail arm of EAC. A Coventry based company specialising in parts for Land Rover, Triumph, Rover etc.

When asked about the manufacture of their wheel bearing assemblies, they said this...

I can confirm the bearing is Timken. If you buy the part you will see their name and part number etched on the bearing.
We buy the bearing in from them, and put it together with the hub made by an OE supplier here in the West Midlands.
There is no need to worry about any Britpart involvement.

That sounds pretty promising to me. If you haven't got access to a huge press, these are probably the next best thing.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for that will ring them in the morning.
Prefer to get a hub complete rather than faff about beating things to pieces and wasting time and money
 
If you have access to a press then you don't have to hammer anything. Timken bearing about £70, once you have the bearing carrier off then it's a case of pressing the hub out, remove the big circlip and press the rest of the bearing out. If your ABS sensor is siezed then you will have to order a new one as it fit's through a hole in the carrier dust shield and you will bugger it geting it out. When I did mine, I cut the shield so the sensor can stay in place if I ever have to do the job again.
 
Removed the old hub tonight. It all came apart quite easily but the hub flange had seized to the carrier.
Loads of wd40 and loads of walloping and off it came.
Fitted the new hub but will take it off again as I will change the driveshaft oil seal as it seems a bit deformed.
Ordered new genuine hub nut and need to get some loctite.
Shame I haven't got time to change the lower ball joint at the moment though.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The hub nut is staked so no need for Loctite. Torque in RAVE. It is something big like 260nm? Or take it to an Indy and bung them a fiver to airgun it up.
Click to expand...

It is 260 of those metric things or properly 192 pounds feet. At that torque the chances of it coming loose even if it's not staked are pretty minimal. But do stake it to be sure. ;)
 
All sorted . Bought a new torque wrench to ensure the correct tightness. The loctite was to secure the hub carrier bolts .
Replaced the axle oil seal as well.
Next job is to take it all apart again to do the ball joints. :eek:
Had some quotes in the region of £600 to do all 4 outer ones and a quote of £1600 for labour from the main dealer. They have a book time of 5 hours per side.
I will probably buy the tool myself £400 ish and still save some money.
After extensive driving no more abs and traction faults:)
 
jerry3 said:
All sorted . Bought a new torque wrench to ensure the correct tightness. The loctite was to secure the hub carrier bolts .
Replaced the axle oil seal as well.
Next job is to take it all apart again to do the ball joints. :eek:
Had some quotes in the region of £600 to do all 4 outer ones and a quote of £1600 for labour from the main dealer. They have a book time of 5 hours per side.
I will probably buy the tool myself £400 ish and still save some money.
After extensive driving no more abs and traction faults:)
Click to expand...

Talk to @martyuk. I think if you're doing the hub-ball-joints you only need the tool if it has gone out of alignment.

You might want to look at your radius arm bushes while you're in there and apart.
 
The alignment tool is only really needed if you have loosened/replaced the taper collet on the bottom of the swivel housing. though some people have made their own to check the centering of the swivel on reassembly.

The actual ball joints can be pressed in/out with a generic ball joint kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/b-NEW-21P...L-ADAPTER-TOOL-SET-SERVICE-KIT-/301965862271?
I've got one of those kits and done 5 or 6 P38's so far, with good results.

Just make sure you spend the bit extra and get genuine Lemforder ball joints, I've heard the Britpart ones don't last nearly as well, and the workshop manual says that the ball joints can only be pressed in/out 3 times before the csaing is out of spec - I wouldn't want to waste one of my chances of cheap ball joints!
 
martyuk said:
The alignment tool is only really needed if you have loosened/replaced the taper collet on the bottom of the swivel housing. though some people have made their own to check the centering of the swivel on reassembly.

The actual ball joints can be pressed in/out with a generic ball joint kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/b-NEW-21P...L-ADAPTER-TOOL-SET-SERVICE-KIT-/301965862271?
I've got one of those kits and done 5 or 6 P38's so far, with good results.

Just make sure you spend the bit extra and get genuine Lemforder ball joints, I've heard the Britpart ones don't last nearly as well, and the workshop manual says that the ball joints can only be pressed in/out 3 times before the csaing is out of spec - I wouldn't want to waste one of my chances of cheap ball joints!
Click to expand...

How many people put a dab of yellow paint on when changing a ball joint? You would never know how many times they have been changed on the average car. Loctite 640 or 648 would sort that anyway.
 
I was going to buy the Laser tool about £400 which is specially designed for the Range Rover as I want to make life easier for myself.
Always buy the best parts I can get .
The mot isnt due until spring so gives me a bit of time to save up.
Will go through as many components as I can replacing bits as necessary to bring back the original quality of the car
 
jerry3 said:
All sorted . Bought a new torque wrench to ensure the correct tightness. The loctite was to secure the hub carrier bolts .
Replaced the axle oil seal as well.
Next job is to take it all apart again to do the ball joints. :eek:
Had some quotes in the region of £600 to do all 4 outer ones and a quote of £1600 for labour from the main dealer. They have a book time of 5 hours per side.
I will probably buy the tool myself £400 ish and still save some money.
After extensive driving no more abs and traction faults:)
Click to expand...
I bought the ball joint extractor/replacer for less than £50 off the Bay.
 
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