Distributor confusion/identification help

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lorri789

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,657
Location
West Stirlingshire
Hi geezers,

I wish to replace my dizzy and came away a little confused. The dizzy that came out is a 35DLM8 version with the 2 pin amplifier.

Weird thing is, my engine is a a 36D number.

So which do I buy? I can use a converter cable I believe for the wiring, but which dizzy is for me?

3.9 Efi
Non cat
1992
En: 36D
 
Found this in my 1990-1994 manuals....

Hope it helps
 

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IIRC you need to check the numbers on the dizzy you have got as they should tell you what the advance curve is. The 35DLM distributors are all essentially the same but the advance curves have variations depending on the engine. I'm sure I read something about it somewhere but I'm afraid I can't remember where. HTH.
 
Okay, ta much. I better have another look.

what do the numbers 4251VA 1792 mean?

Anyway, I found a part number on it: ERR....0744. i should of noticed it but it was just displayed funny.
 
(American Site) but it lists ERR0744 as the dizzy for the classic 4.2 V8's

1993 Range Rover Distributor (Classic 4.2L LWB)

And the online 4.2 Workshop Manual lists it as the ERR0744 part number (attached picky)

But MicroCAT lists the 4.2 as ERR4739

ERR0744 not listed on Microcat and does not compute at Rimmers. Have not gone through Microcat in detail there are lots listed. But the only two pin one i saw for the 36D is no longer available according to Rimmers. Being an auto it will be the HC engine so that is the dizzy he needs.
 
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You need a 35DLM8 with the amp riding piggy back. If you reuse your amp you need to paste mating face with heat sink silicone grease.

You can also use the 35DM8 with the amp mounted on the wing but it wouldn't have been original fitment on your car.

Would also recommend Simon BBC
 
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Be sure to scribe old dizzy where the rotor arm is pointing before you pull it out.
Use as reference to install new one correctly and make sure it engages the oil pump drive gear properley with the flat screwdriver style fitting on the bottom.
Where the neck widens on the dizzy stem sits flush with the front cover when engaged.
Then advance it a degree every day you use it (anti clockwise) till you notice pinking under load and operating temp. Then back it off the last adjustment to achieve best timing.
 
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Be sure to scribe old dizzy where the rotor arm is pointing before you pull it out.
Use as reference to install new one correctly and make sure it engages the oil pump drive gear properley with the flat screwdriver style fitting on the bottom.
Where the neck widens on the dizzy stem sits flush with the front cover when engaged.
Then advance it a degree every day you use it (anti clockwise) till you notice pinking under load and operating temp. Then back it off the last adjustment to achieve best timing.

Or you could of course set the timing correct from the off. :D:D
 
Great. Thanks for the help. I'll just be doing the timing from the off and go from there.

I just do the timing by sound and then test it under load and adjust as necessary. Only then do I get me strobe out. I do like me strobe.


ERR(0)744 has been superseded by ERR4739...I think.

The extra zero was added later btw. The original code was ERR744 ;)
 
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