P38A 1996 p38 4.6 converted to bmw 2.5

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steveshone

steveshone

Member
Posts
51
Location
wrexham area north wales
Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong section, I posted on here a few years ago regarding my 96 p38 4.6, having bought the car 10 years ago and doing only 1 mile in it after which for most of the time it has sat locked away in my garage, I decided to remove the v8 which was an unknown quantity and I have converted it to diesel bmw 2.5 M51. I purchased the engine complete with all ancillaries and loom, bell housing, coolant and oil cooler radiators, 2.5 torque converter,
I had to change my HP24 auto box front end for a HP22 front end which has a shorter stator and turbine shaft to accommodate the 2.5 converter and also change the transmission controller ecu under the passenger seat
I had to change the transmission cooler pipes to 2.5 cut them and fit hard line connectors so that I can re route the transmission cooler and still keep my fog lights.
air con was a case of swapping pipes for the 2.5 version and re routing the compressor clutch wire
rather than having to mess about with trying to sync and match emu's I bought a matched set, BECM, ECM, instruments, drivers door lock glove box lock, 2 keys/fobs then just a case of swapping them over.
the engine came complete with its wiring loom but I had to change the under bonnet fuse box , the diesel loom comes with a round black plug and I had to splice in the corresponding socket the loom beneath the coolant header tank tracing each with with the help of workshop manual wiring diagrams,
I had to replace the pedal box with a diesel pedal box as it has the throttle pedal sensor a lot of work for the difference of a 5cm hole and two captive nuts
coolant plumbing is a straight swap for diesel coolant pipes
I have used the petrol feed and return pipes which are original and factory clipped to the chassis and joined to them with the diesel feed and return plastic pipes across the bulkhead the joins being next to the brake fluid reservoir, I replaced the petrol in tank pups for the diesel type and replaced the fuel filler pipe to accommodate the diesel filler pump nozzles.
stainless steel exhaust but I had to shorten the middle box forward pipe and reeled the flange in place and then cut off and fabricate a two bolt flange onto the 2.5 down pipe

car is back together now starts first time and sounds really well but I have a couple of issues which I would appreciate any input on,
firstly I have an issue with the under bonnet SRS fuse which keeps blowing fuse 23, but having disconnected the feed wire from the fuse box C173 pin 4 to the drivers side heated screen and leaving it unplugged fuse 23 remains intact, looking at the wiring diagram fuse 23 supplies only SRS and instrument cluster, I am thinking perhaps a fuse box internal short and will be checking for any continuity between pin 4 and fuse 23 I have already tried another relay as a process of elimination

my other issue is central locking, the car locks and unlocks using the drivers door lock with no issues, but not with the fob, I have tried the resync with key in door lock at per the handbook and also tried it in the ignition to no avail,
I have looked at BECM with Nanocom and cleared RF Memory I then went through resync procedurerescanned and have the following message:THE BECM HAS RECEIVED A VALID RADIO CODE
when I look at one of the BECM settings pages I see IMMOBILISATION CODE and a box with 4 numbers, below that EKA and a box with 4 dashes and no numbers, below that FOB CODE and 3 boxes each with 3 dashes each but no numbers,
is it that the fob codes are not written ti the BECM and therefor not working, if so where can I get the fob codes, as stated above I purchased the BECM etc at a matched set.

Best regards
Steve
 
steveshone said:
Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong section, I posted on here a few years ago regarding my 96 p38 4.6, having bought the car 10 years ago and doing only 1 mile in it after which for most of the time it has sat locked away in my garage, I decided to remove the v8 which was an unknown quantity and I have converted it to diesel bmw 2.5 M51. I purchased the engine complete with all ancillaries and loom, bell housing, coolant and oil cooler radiators, 2.5 torque converter,
I had to change my HP24 auto box front end for a HP22 front end which has a shorter stator and turbine shaft to accommodate the 2.5 converter and also change the transmission controller ecu under the passenger seat
I had to change the transmission cooler pipes to 2.5 cut them and fit hard line connectors so that I can re route the transmission cooler and still keep my fog lights.
air con was a case of swapping pipes for the 2.5 version and re routing the compressor clutch wire
rather than having to mess about with trying to sync and match emu's I bought a matched set, BECM, ECM, instruments, drivers door lock glove box lock, 2 keys/fobs then just a case of swapping them over.
the engine came complete with its wiring loom but I had to change the under bonnet fuse box , the diesel loom comes with a round black plug and I had to splice in the corresponding socket the loom beneath the coolant header tank tracing each with with the help of workshop manual wiring diagrams,
I had to replace the pedal box with a diesel pedal box as it has the throttle pedal sensor a lot of work for the difference of a 5cm hole and two captive nuts
coolant plumbing is a straight swap for diesel coolant pipes
I have used the petrol feed and return pipes which are original and factory clipped to the chassis and joined to them with the diesel feed and return plastic pipes across the bulkhead the joins being next to the brake fluid reservoir, I replaced the petrol in tank pups for the diesel type and replaced the fuel filler pipe to accommodate the diesel filler pump nozzles.
stainless steel exhaust but I had to shorten the middle box forward pipe and reeled the flange in place and then cut off and fabricate a two bolt flange onto the 2.5 down pipe

car is back together now starts first time and sounds really well but I have a couple of issues which I would appreciate any input on,
firstly I have an issue with the under bonnet SRS fuse which keeps blowing fuse 23, but having disconnected the feed wire from the fuse box C173 pin 4 to the drivers side heated screen and leaving it unplugged fuse 23 remains intact, looking at the wiring diagram fuse 23 supplies only SRS and instrument cluster, I am thinking perhaps a fuse box internal short and will be checking for any continuity between pin 4 and fuse 23 I have already tried another relay as a process of elimination

my other issue is central locking, the car locks and unlocks using the drivers door lock with no issues, but not with the fob, I have tried the resync with key in door lock at per the handbook and also tried it in the ignition to no avail,
I have looked at BECM with Nanocom and cleared RF Memory I then went through resync procedurerescanned and have the following message:THE BECM HAS RECEIVED A VALID RADIO CODE
when I look at one of the BECM settings pages I see IMMOBILISATION CODE and a box with 4 numbers, below that EKA and a box with 4 dashes and no numbers, below that FOB CODE and 3 boxes each with 3 dashes each but no numbers,
is it that the fob codes are not written ti the BECM and therefor not working, if so where can I get the fob codes, as stated above I purchased the BECM etc at a matched set.

Best regards
Steve
Click to expand...

I cannot really remember that screen but I don't think the EKA or fob codes show in the Nanocom.

The fob should just sync using the method you used (clear RF memory) then key in door, press to unlock, tirn to unlock; press to lock, turn to lock and repeat until it unlocks on the fob. Of course, if a microswitch in the door actuator was playing up then it wouldn't sync. Usually the middle one starts to go as the boot button earths through it. Does the central locking both lock and unlock with the key?
 
You said you got all replacement locks and fobs as well. It is just possible that your old system was 433 MHz and the replacement fobs 315 MHz or vice versa. If that is the case then the receiver won't "see" the key as it is in the wrong band. We have trouble here with the same issue. I bought a replacement key off of LR for my truck, it wouldn't work. Seems LR supplied a 433MHz key for my 315MHz vehicle. Refund thanks!

So as a way forward, give Les at Classic Rides North Wales a call, he is very helpful and can give you pointers as to which frequency range your receiver is in. Take a photo of it before you call him.
 
The EKA code cannot be seen with Nanocom. Turn off the immobiliser and the EKA code in the BECM for safety so you don't end up locked out. The BECM will report receiving a valid code even if it's the wrong FOB or the RF receiver is faulty, ask Mark, he has had that problem.
I take it you have changed the BECM settings from V8 to Diesel?
315Mhz FOB's are for the USA, not available in the UK as far as I know.
 
Thanks for the advice and input, in reply to Grrrrrr, yes the door key will lock and unlock the car, and I think the fact I cant see any digital for EKA and FOB CODES and just dashes with nanocom may be because the BECM is locked and the security codes cant be accessed through the old portal a security measure?

Marshall, I purchased the BECM, ECM, 2 fobs, drivers door lock and glove box lock as a matched set, but I do concede its possible the fobs may not be the originals to the BECM, which has in the past been looked at by Callrover as it has one of there lables,
I will give them a call as you suggest thank you

Data, the Becm and ecu were removed from a diesel and i just swapped them for the v8 gems , so would I be correct in thinking the settings stored would be from the donor diesel?, you mention to ask Mark, how do I contact him please? I have noticed that when I unlock my other p38 which is a factory diesel when I unlock with the key the the indicators flash once, this one I have converted doesn't?

another thing I am wondering about it how if at all I can turn off the HEVAC unit as in switch off the screen / unit totally , the closest I get is the fans turned down to the first segment next to the fan symbol in the display, sorry to appear vague but my other car has the three knob controls

with regard to the conversion everything seems to work as it should starts instantly and sounds sweet, I haven't driven it yes but it selects forward and reveres with no hesitation or jerks, the only fault codes relate to HEVAC door stalled and A/C compressor line fault but I think that relates to the system having not yet been filled, I think one of the sensors is open circuit if the pressure is low to protect the compressor,
 
You rang?
I was receiving the invalid code for my fobs aswell. Turned out to be my reciever behind the drivers rear most pillar under the parcel shelf. I had a mk1 edition and sorted the issue straight away. Be careful if you have to replace the unit. There are three models in succession and some of the latest models for sale aren't late ones and are being be passed off as just that. ;)
 
steveshone said:
another thing I am wondering about it how if at all I can turn off the HEVAC unit as in switch off the screen / unit totally , the closest I get is the fans turned down to the first segment next to the fan symbol in the display, sorry to appear vague but my other car has the three knob controls

with regard to the conversion everything seems to work as it should starts instantly and sounds sweet, I haven't driven it yes but it selects forward and reveres with no hesitation or jerks, the only fault codes relate to HEVAC door stalled and A/C compressor line fault but I think that relates to the system having not yet been filled, I think one of the sensors is open circuit if the pressure is low to protect the compressor,
Click to expand...

HEVAC on GEMS is slightly different to the diesel. There's an extra wire that goes somewhere or something. martyuk knows the details. Might need to check the Technical Section as there's a list of all the different HEVAC units there and it might mention some differences.
 
thanks again for the advice, I will try swopping the receiver from my other car to see if it makes a difference, and I will have a better idea regarding the hevac once its been gassed, and I seem to remember a fix for binding doors in the heater box with a self tapper, the latest challenge its thrown at me is a high pitch buzz from the drivers door speakers
 
steveshone said:
thanks again for the advice, I will try swopping the receiver from my other car to see if it makes a difference, and I will have a better idea regarding the hevac once its been gassed, and I seem to remember a fix for binding doors in the heater box with a self tapper, the latest challenge its thrown at me is a high pitch buzz from the drivers door speakers
Click to expand...
High pitched buzz from the speakers could well be corroded connectors at the foot of the A posts.
 
Just an update on my fob locking issue,
i have been in contact with Les at classic rides and he has been very helpful and giving me advice on where to look and test but before doing so checking wiring to actuators etc I removed the donor becm and replaced it with the original did key resync and the C/L worked from the fob but car wouldn't start, would crank ok but wouldn't fire up, spoke to Les who guided me on obtaining with nanocom EMS code from ECM and writing it to the original becm, and also changing the engine type from GEMS to late EDC, but it still refused to start, but no lock out or engine disabled messages, maybe its electronic mind has become scrambled and confused so for now the donor one is back and at least I can start and move the car, and a visit to Les in the near future will be required, but at least I now know that the rest of the C/L system works as it should.
The radio issue seems to have sorted itself out so I think as Data suggests its a wiring / corrosion issue and maybe working ok because I have had the car in the garage out of the damp for the past week, or maybe a cd changer issue because when I had the high pitch buzz I also had the cd error coming up on the radio, I will know a bit more this week as its parked outside will see if the fault returns.
Hoping to find time to change the front hockey stick bushed this week and one of the front prop UJ's
 
steveshone said:
Just an update on my fob locking issue,
i have been in contact with Les at classic rides and he has been very helpful and giving me advice on where to look and test but before doing so checking wiring to actuators etc I removed the donor becm and replaced it with the original did key resync and the C/L worked from the fob but car wouldn't start, would crank ok but wouldn't fire up, spoke to Les who guided me on obtaining with nanocom EMS code from ECM and writing it to the original becm, and also changing the engine type from GEMS to late EDC, but it still refused to start, but no lock out or engine disabled messages, maybe its electronic mind has become scrambled and confused so for now the donor one is back and at least I can start and move the car, and a visit to Les in the near future will be required, but at least I now know that the rest of the C/L system works as it should.
The radio issue seems to have sorted itself out so I think as Data suggests its a wiring / corrosion issue and maybe working ok because I have had the car in the garage out of the damp for the past week, or maybe a cd changer issue because when I had the high pitch buzz I also had the cd error coming up on the radio, I will know a bit more this week as its parked outside will see if the fault returns.
Hoping to find time to change the front hockey stick bushed this week and one of the front prop UJ's
Click to expand...
Turn off the immobiliser and EKA in the BECM with Nanocom
 
thanks Data I will give it a try, the immobiliser is turned off but EKA is enabled, do I enter and save the ems code and engine type again and write settings it and once done do I turn the EKA back on? and its it done ignition on or off, when it wouldn't start I did try entering the EKA code via door lock, a question though please, why would EKA function need to be turned off to do the engine type and EMS code?
 
So central locking works with old BECM but not the new one? Yet with the new BECM the car starts and runs? Sounds like the new BECM already has EKA disabled.

It can only be the key fob sync but you said you'd cleared the RF memory. I'd try syncing one key and if that fails try the other one. If the RF receiver is unplugged you'll have to hold the key by the rear quarter light window. Might be worth a read of the Nanocom documents and maybe a search on the Black Box solutions forum.
 
Grrrrr thanks for your input,
The BECM that I purchased along with the ECM as a kit from a donor diesel everything works car starts as it should but the 2 key fobs supplied wont operate the C/L no matter how I try to sync them so it would appear they are not a matched key set to that BECM.

I tried putting back the original BECM from when car was GEMS V8, and the C/L works using the fob but car wont start, turns over ok but wont fire, but at least I know that the cars C/L system is ok regarding actuators and wiring,
I contacted Les at Classic Rides and he explained how I needed to get the EMS code from the donor Diesel ECM and write it to the refitted gems BECM which I have done in the immobiliser code box, using Nanocom,
I have also changed the engine type from GEMS to LATE EDC
the immobiliser is turned off in the original BECM, but I haven't as yet tried turning off the EKA as Data mentioned earlier, hopefully it may be as simple as turning off the EKA function and re entering the EMS code and engine type
 
steveshone said:
thanks Data I will give it a try, the immobiliser is turned off but EKA is enabled, do I enter and save the ems code and engine type again and write settings it and once done do I turn the EKA back on? and its it done ignition on or off, when it wouldn't start I did try entering the EKA code via door lock, a question though please, why would EKA function need to be turned off to do the engine type and EMS code?
Click to expand...
If the BECM allows you to turn off the EKA, leave it off, also turn off the immobiliser, two less things to give you hassle. Re-read the BECM after turning off to see if they stayed off.
If OK then re-write the immobiliser code
 
Last edited:
steveshone said:
Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong section, I posted on here a few years ago regarding my 96 p38 4.6, having bought the car 10 years ago and doing only 1 mile in it after which for most of the time it has sat locked away in my garage, I decided to remove the v8 which was an unknown quantity and I have converted it to diesel bmw 2.5 M51. I purchased the engine complete with all ancillaries and loom, bell housing, coolant and oil cooler radiators, 2.5 torque converter,
I had to change my HP24 auto box front end for a HP22 front end which has a shorter stator and turbine shaft to accommodate the 2.5 converter and also change the transmission controller ecu under the passenger seat
I had to change the transmission cooler pipes to 2.5 cut them and fit hard line connectors so that I can re route the transmission cooler and still keep my fog lights.
air con was a case of swapping pipes for the 2.5 version and re routing the compressor clutch wire
rather than having to mess about with trying to sync and match emu's I bought a matched set, BECM, ECM, instruments, drivers door lock glove box lock, 2 keys/fobs then just a case of swapping them over.
the engine came complete with its wiring loom but I had to change the under bonnet fuse box , the diesel loom comes with a round black plug and I had to splice in the corresponding socket the loom beneath the coolant header tank tracing each with with the help of workshop manual wiring diagrams,
I had to replace the pedal box with a diesel pedal box as it has the throttle pedal sensor a lot of work for the difference of a 5cm hole and two captive nuts
coolant plumbing is a straight swap for diesel coolant pipes
I have used the petrol feed and return pipes which are original and factory clipped to the chassis and joined to them with the diesel feed and return plastic pipes across the bulkhead the joins being next to the brake fluid reservoir, I replaced the petrol in tank pups for the diesel type and replaced the fuel filler pipe to accommodate the diesel filler pump nozzles.
stainless steel exhaust but I had to shorten the middle box forward pipe and reeled the flange in place and then cut off and fabricate a two bolt flange onto the 2.5 down pipe

car is back together now starts first time and sounds really well but I have a couple of issues which I would appreciate any input on,
firstly I have an issue with the under bonnet SRS fuse which keeps blowing fuse 23, but having disconnected the feed wire from the fuse box C173 pin 4 to the drivers side heated screen and leaving it unplugged fuse 23 remains intact, looking at the wiring diagram fuse 23 supplies only SRS and instrument cluster, I am thinking perhaps a fuse box internal short and will be checking for any continuity between pin 4 and fuse 23 I have already tried another relay as a process of elimination

my other issue is central locking, the car locks and unlocks using the drivers door lock with no issues, but not with the fob, I have tried the resync with key in door lock at per the handbook and also tried it in the ignition to no avail,
I have looked at BECM with Nanocom and cleared RF Memory I then went through resync procedurerescanned and have the following message:THE BECM HAS RECEIVED A VALID RADIO CODE
when I look at one of the BECM settings pages I see IMMOBILISATION CODE and a box with 4 numbers, below that EKA and a box with 4 dashes and no numbers, below that FOB CODE and 3 boxes each with 3 dashes each but no numbers,
is it that the fob codes are not written ti the BECM and therefor not working, if so where can I get the fob codes, as stated above I purchased the BECM etc at a matched set.

Best regards
Steve
Click to expand...
I think this is something that Black Box solution (purveyor of Nanocom) do as a paid for service to generate new codes.
 
Last edited:
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