Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

Evening All,

Whilst the missus is in bed I have snook down to entertain myself............Landyzone - My guilty Pleasure!!

Anyhoooooo
Mr Noisy - I have been all over the web - which is the problem really , back in the day before 'tinternet' you would go to the local 4x4 place, usually located in teh other county, and just buy what they had. Nowadays you can get all sorts of things from far off reaches of the globe!!!!

So as I was saying - I have been all over the web and to be honest I sort of agree that the 3" lift kit from mm4x4 seems the best value. It includes extenders for your brakes and bump stops plus nuts and bolts BUT and it is a BUT

What does all the -2" rear shock mounts and turrets give you?

My thoughts are thisprices as of tonight)

3" springs by Bearmach or similiar - £120.00
Tubular turrets with double shock mounts - £69.00
Double PIN shock Mounts rear - £55.00
+5" shocks front and rear - £180.00 Terrafirma
Extended hoses - £39.00
Double craked trailing arms - £130.00
Cranked radius arms - £239.00

all just over £700.00

Or do I just go for 2" springs, Double shocks and the radius arms etc bringing eerything in at £500 or so :doh:

I am truly confused!!

OK so a decision is made -

I will go for the MM4x4 kit - 3" at £302.00 plus the VAT.
I will get the double shock mounts and add another set of dampers - Foundary 4x4 do a new double set for the rear utilising the pin and hoop mounts as standard although I have heard the pin - pin mounts are better.

Then I will get the trailing arm kit from QT3.

This plus my wheels and tyres will be about as much as I could afford :-( althought in true GreenHornet (Yes big Stu the car is indeed Green - and not your fancy namby pamby metallic Green but your normal welly green that helps you hide in the bush - ooh hide in the bush, not that I get the chance of that much at the moment not with..................)

Sorry I was off on one then - Like I was saying in true GreenHornet style I could see abouth spring lifters but thats just a little sad and perhaps dangerous ( but QT3 do them)

Did I say that I had made a decision.........

Hi mate

3" mm4x4 lift kit with double shock front and back will be superb. Stick to 2" procomps for simplicity and value. Buy pin-pin rear shocks defo, easier to setup the twin mount kit also and pin-ring procomps have a habit of snapping the top ring off

You could fit 5" shocks which will give great axle droop, but you'll need extended brake lines plus modified mounts, and wide angle props front and rear.

Another thing, the company is called QT. their front arms are either QT3s or QT6s. The former having 3 degrees of caster correction, the latter 6.

You will need QT3s for the front and their double cranked rear arms.

Cheers Dude,

I am liking the sound of the set up already - Bank Card get ready for a beasting!!!

Roll on the weekend for more welding and grinding minus the damn hangover!!!

BTW I emailed Garageand4x4 regarding the wheels, I need to wait 3 weeks before they come in so not too bad £245 for four and £305 for 5 if I remember right.

Cheers Noisy

yeah they have gone up a touch since i got mine, i paid 225 for four and then 60 for one extra, but thats fair enough an extra fiver a wheel.

good luck with it mate, if you werent so far away we could take some pics, they will end up fairly identical i assume

Are they'd be twins and they could get muddy together - we could leave them playing on the swings as we went down pub.......

I am just planning the sill replacements. I did think about the normal panels from YRM Metal but have opted to go for the 60x100x3.2 RHS box section steel and build in some tree sliders and Hi-Lift Jack points. I would also like to eventually have an exterior cage coming off the side sills, front winch bumper arrangement and the rear HD bumper. Might help with the body when hitting low trees and branches more than anything.

a roll cage is excellent for fending off trees etc, gets used much more in that way than actually for rollover protection.

box section for the sills is a good idea seeing as ive recently put a large dent in one of my beautifully repaired examples

just bear in mind the weight, i wouldnt be looking to fit rocksliders aswell as box sills...

cheers

You're right and I didn't mean rocksliders I just meant to fit the tree sliders. I ordered the steel today and had to order a 6m length so I will have 3m left over. This will be enou for two more cills and I will let them go for cost so about £45.00 unless I get the urge to create something in the meantime.

Looking forward to having a go this weekend at welding it into place although I have my son this weekend so want to spend some time with him.

On another note I received a near side headlight and indicator today. As I have the 300 version light panels I have to change the lights and indicators to suit. A bit of a ball ache but should look good when done. Watch out for the photos.

GreenHornet said:

You're right and I didn't mean rocksliders I just meant to fit the tree sliders. I ordered the steel today and had to order a 6m length so I will have 3m left over. This will be enou for two more cills and I will let them go for cost so about £45.00 unless I get the urge to create something in the meantime.

Looking forward to having a go this weekend at welding it into place although I have my son this weekend so want to spend some time with him.

On another note I received a near side headlight and indicator today. As I have the 300 version light panels I have to change the lights and indicators to suit. A bit of a ball ache but should look good when done. Watch out for the photos.

Click to expand...

If you really want to sell on that bit of box steel i'll have it off ya as I am going to make up my own sliders
not that im tight or anything lol!!

Cheers
Matt

GreenHornet said:

Yes big Stu the car is indeed Green - and not your fancy namby pamby metallic Green but your normal welly green that helps you hide in the bush - ......

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what green is it tho......

Hi Matt welcome aboard the forum. You can pop around and have a look anytime you're passing mate.

Big Stu, Green like Hunter Welles or am I being really thick and you are asking what paint code it is?

I have, as you may have guessed, now got the 60x100x3.6 RHS from the local steelwork suppliers. Currently this is cut to 1500mm so I will trim it down and then chamfer the rear end to make it look aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

After having a look at the car this evening I will need to cut out the inner sill as well and then weld the top edge of the RHS to the outer edges of the floor and directly weld the body mounts to the RHS on the same plane as the original inner sill.

I know it will be a bit of buggering about but the item will provide a lot of support and protection to the vehicle body in an otherwise vulnerable place.

I will take some photos as usual and then you all can take the mick lol

GreenHornet said:

Hi Matt welcome aboard the forum. You can pop around and have a look anytime you're passing mate.

Click to expand...

Cheers Ian, was hoping to get something made up this week but had to weld up Marks sill and floor lol and have been flat out on my other "little" project all week
12 hour days is not a good thing

Whens a good time to pop round and grab the steel matey?

Ta
Matt

Make it tomorrow afternoon as I am full on in the morning.

GreenHornet said:

Hi Matt welcome aboard the forum. You can pop around and have a look anytime you're passing mate.

Big Stu, Green like Hunter Welles or am I being really thick and you are asking what paint code it is?

Click to expand...

I am interested in the paint code, or the RAL number please

Big Stu,

I will get the paint code off the vehicle tomorrow. I know that it has both the paint and aerosol code on the slam panel as I have made a mental note of it for later use. Sox for being stupid

Saturday 15th October 2011

Well today I set myself the task of sorting out the drivers side sill and floor area. Not a huge task at first glance however I must have been looking in rose tinted glasses as five hours later I have still got to weld the inner side of the sill and make up some patches to the floor BUT I am happy with the progress and only one bollock dropped ( more later )

So first things first - why infact do we say first things first? I mean whats the alternative? First things second

Anyhow I had a big decision to make first of all and that was how I was going to get to the rear of the cill area as I have a three door and therefore no advantage of doors at the back. So as the bottom of the quater panel was already shagged I decided to cut the panel back and later on I will make it good with some chequer plate panel.(Photo1)

the main job was to cut out the outer cill and make some returns around the A and B pillar bases so they could be welded safely to the new RHS cill. As always the Discovery rust worm had paid a visit to the car, in fact it had a bloody party with all his mates and then stayed over with some girls and totally screwed up the panel work in the drivers footwell. By the time I had finished I had taken out the corner of the inner wing and a portion of the floor but hey - you can't weld to rust. (Photo 2)

Once all the outer and inner cill (Including some perfect steel - seems wierd cutting out sound metal from a disco :doh I was left with a nice reveal into which the new cill could be offered. (Photos 3 to 6)

The Cill

For the new cill I used 60x100x3.6RHS from the local steel supplier. A six metre length came in at £90 and I had them cut it up into 4 equal lengths of 1500mm.
So with the car on axle stands I got ready to offer the cill up. (Photo 7)

Unfortunately a 60x100 doesn't fit IF you leave a portion of the inner and outer cills at the top. (No this isn't the big bollock drop) I left the cill edges to give a nice edge to weld to as it helps when you are welding a heavy steel to thin sheet panel. IMO

So I cut down the centreline of the RHS to reduce the top width by 2mm. (A cutting disc thickness - provided you are using a 2mm cutting disc. If you are using a 3mm cutting disc then - well - you will get a 3mm cut)

after cutting down the back bone I stich welded the seam to get back some compression strength to the top face. (Photo 8)

I then chamfered off the end to the rear and then plugged up the ends with new 2mm plate. (Photos 9 & 10)

NEXT POST FOR CONTINUATION

OK so the cill was offered up and fitted beautifully

What could possibly go wrong?

I CUT IT TOO SHORT!!!! by 50mm.

But never mind i will make it work but it won't be perfectly as I imagine - Get over myself.

WELD PREP

So I ground all the edges back and took the rough paint and underseal off the surfaces and then drilled holes along the top of the cill through the floor to help PLUG WELDING the top face. This will give the RHS and floor strength and stop them twisting. (Photo 1 & 2)

Then with the cill offered up I ground a line around the new steel along the edge of the original cills so I can get good earthing when welding.

SO the Finished Job

The RHS was lifted up using a trolley jack and then once I was sure that the door would shut properly, the plug welds were done first (Photo 3)

Then I welded up the B pillar and A pillar edges and then finally finished the day off with the seam weld along the upper outer edge.
(Photo 4 to 7)

All in all I am happy with the job and the strength of the cill is incredible so I would really recomend it to anyone who has to replace a cill - Just cut it to the right length and good luck in finding a way not to remove half the bottom of your quater panel

FINALLY FOR BIG STU

The last photo is of the paint and touch up code for the colour. Hope this helps

More photos if you're interested

Nice tidy work pal, hats off