Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

Yeah I am getting obsessive with articulation. I had intended it to be able to move as much as possible eventually progressing onto some radical movement. However this is currently running standard arms front and rear but not for long.



This picture is of a defender with scorpion racing extreme suspension, yet it still didn't get up a slope which a standard series 2 with diff lockers managed. However it provides great articulation on double cranked arms.



This is an idea that I am progressing with for the rear arms. I am also looking to adapt it for the front giving adjustable length arms.



Finally though I am getting a bit obsessed with the 3 link suspension, but the QT kit is £1500 apparently.

With regards to the rings on the Gearlever, I reckon I will have to go to the scrap yard too. Can't think of where else to get them from.

Articulation is OK, but you still need to get some power and torque down onto the floor ..

Absolutely right.

Ultimately diff lockers are best. I just can't afford them yet and really want to play with the suspension some more. It's fun to see the wheels move as much as they do. I really want better articulation on the front.

Yeah, we watched a few of the winch challenge guys at Manby, some awesome kit, some abortions and some that looked frankly scary!

Nice to see someone doing something a bit different and actually trying stuff out!

So on another subject, my CB finally arrived today. So I have a Midland Alan 78, a long springer and a body mount.

So whee is best? And where have you put yours. Inspiration please!!!

GreenHornet said:

So on another subject, my CB finally arrived today. So I have a Midland Alan 78, a long springer and a body mount.

So whee is best? And where have you put yours. Inspiration please!!!

Click to expand...

Mine's on the rear .. works well, similar reception to the original large mag-mount, but no need to take it off and back on again down tree-lined lanes ..

That's the same body mount I have. I was thinking of going above the gutter but it seemed too high.

Wheres the rig? (see, getting used to the lingo already good buddy lol)

saw this a while back and thought of you!
Chainlink extreme 4x4 Lizard - YouTube

Rig is on the central console, by the drivers left leg, with the wiring going to the lighter socket so I can take it out easily. Mic is on a bracket to the left of the instrument binnacle.

Works well, other than mine's a 3 door and lifting the seat forward rubs against the cb, so passengers are encouraged to get in the back via the passenger side .. Nowt to do with me being a fat lazy git, you understand!

without doubt the best performing mount on a disco is a stud mount fitted slap bang in the middle of the roof.

the ground plane available gives SWR readings that are hardly readable. i get reading around 0.1/0.2

i originally went for gutter mount but ripped it off twice, have seen rear mounts take a pounding without giving up, but the perfomance of that mount is questionable.

depends on what sort of Dx youre looking for, if its just for close range contact you can mount anywhere.

has to be said that a stud in the roof is the cheapest and best option, the drawback is you have to drill a hole and it can interfere with roof racks etc (the coil must be in free space, not close to any bodywork)

cheers

nrgserv said:

saw this a while back and thought of you!
Chainlink extreme 4x4 Lizard - YouTube

Click to expand...

Completely cooking nuts - lmao

Thank you it is certainly different.

As I searched high and low for a disco with no sunroofs, I would be reluctant to drill a hole in the roof although agree with the logic.

Close quarter radio-ing so rear mounted option is the way for now. I do like the rig on the top of the dashboard. Seen them in the centre but I have plans for that area. On the side of the console would just get beaten with feet, don't ask, there is another option which is off the headlining near the sun visor,

Stop being lazy : )
A man of your calibre,only take you 10 mins to knock one up like mine.
As noisy said best place as far as transmitting is concerned is on the roof but then you would never drill a hole in your roof : ) so best option is bracket on spare wheel,u can have it nearly as high as the roof mount plus it gives it a lot of clearance.
As long as the bracket earths to body correctly you can get your swr down to around 0.2
Let me know and I'll pop mine round if you wanna have a look.
But whatever you do I would steer clear of gutter mounts.always get ripped off.

Cheers guys, I must admit, I have just spent a week installing £12k of server and workstations complete with webhosting, emails and data management and yet swr and the like sounds like gobbledygook to me lol.

I have a body mount that I brought the other week and intend on using that as it looks neat and whilst i can understand GummyBears statement, (clever sod) I dont have a rear carrier anymore. This reminds me, i need a spare wheel.................

So this weekend I have been suffering from Man flu, it's a scientifically recognised illness which is much much more severe than any normal flu that women get although at the slightest hint of Man flu, women also contract a des ease that in inhibits their ability to be sensitive and understanding.

So anyway I spent the day in the garage and repaired my drivers seat. Here you can see the crack which affected both rails.



As the rails are thin metal I decided that I would use 25mm x 3mm metal straps and weld them full length.



After welding the new metal on I simple drilled the holes and then started to replace the seat foam.



The seat foam is really easy to install and as a result I took the opportunity to swap over the passenger seat base with the drivers side for added comfort.

First of all the seat base has three slits within it. These are where plastic tags attached to the seat cover go through and secure the seat cover material to the base in order to form the shape and stop any saggy ness.





Once the seat cover was attached to the base I stretched the edges of the cover over the foam and then prepared to place the foam and cover back onto the seat frame.



Finally I attached the trim of the cover to the seat frame rails. It was really easy to do and literally it only took about 20mins to swap over the seat bases.



Then after this was all done I decided to paint the floor of the disco. Since off roading I need to be able to wash the old girl out.

So this weekend I was a little lazy but still I managed to sort out the dodgy starter motor, just all bunged up with dirt around the connectors after a dip the other weekend and then wired in my CB.

So here are a couple of pictures of the finished job. The worst thing was dropping the front of the headlining to run the wires so they couldn't be seen.

Nice work mate,looks good.great idea putting it up there : )

sweet. the hinge on the aerial will be the cause of having to stop many times to straighten up an aerial that has fallen over backwards, but of course it does prevent your mount getting ripped clean off.

maybe experiment with a bit of bungee cord mounted to the gutter to allow the aerial to swing back but then it pulls it back into shape?

a mate of mine regularly has his aerial pointing down at the ground because it has a hinge fitted.

just a tip