Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

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I must admit.......about the last 10 pages of this might as well of been written in Chinese for all I know!! Way too technical talk going on :wtf:
 
So today a few jobs were sorted.

The reversing light switch was removed and cleaned. It tested OK so in it went and once adjusted it works again, at least people won't be too scared when I start moving backwards.

Secondly I fitted a second battery to the old girl. Recently I have noticed the starter battery being a little sluggish so as a precaution I have fitted a spare battery the other side. I have wired up a simple charging circuit with a 30amp relay running off the switched wire from the pump cut of solenoid. As this battery won't be doing anything other than being charged and providing a jump should I need it.

Later on I may wire up some accessories and can at least use them until I decide to get a proper red top optima.

Then finally I did a bit more to my rear bumper. This afternoon I completed the frame that wraps around the quarter panel. Now I am ready to fit the large section steel over the top and brace against the chassis. However it is very strong already and even if I wack it with a lump hammer or swing on it, it doesn't move. Just the job.
 
Was going through some photos this evening and found a couple of two of my old Discovery's

This is the last off roader when we first brought her. I travelled nearly 100 miles each way to get her. One lady owner and a full service history. Manual V8 that sounded like a TVR. I fitted the bulbar but promptly ripped it off on some jumps, much to the kids amusement.

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this was the very first dent. One of many that ended in her almost demise.

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Next we have what was my pride and joy. One owner, a diplomat, this had spent all it's life in an underground garage when I found it. V8 police spec with just a few thousand miles and still had writing on the chassis on the factory. Here she has spent the day travelling through hedges. It took me all day to get rid of the scratches with a buffing machine.

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Another V8. This was our first GreenHornet green laner.

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Finally my dream car that was before she had to go. Couldn't afford the running costs lol.

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So you're well used to v8s then!! Can't rib you anymore really, you've had more v8 action than me! :(

As for the Porsche, yes I agree, running/maintenance costs are crippling. Specialists charge as much as the dealer, and they dont seem to be the worlds most trouble free car... :rolleyes:

Although I must say that a 996 with a decent kit fitted is one of the most fabulous looking cars available in my opinion. Understated 'just move over' muscle.

Lovely :)
 
The blue D2 was sold last year. I had a good job but then the shareholders sold the company anda the people who bought it didn't want any of the management team to remain. I was made redundant and then the recession hit so all my toys had to go eventually.

I really liked the D2 although I have had more fun in the Hornet.

As for t he Porsche, I sold a mint 530 sport to get it anda it was the worst decision ever. Only had it a year and let's just say that the first day of ownership saw the engine let loose, then a new clutch at £3500 and new discs and pads all round at nearly £600 a corner meant that I didn't love it much lol.

As for V8 action, no Noisy you can't rib me anymore. At 18 I had my first V8 and from then on I have always loved them. SD1, trmph stag with rover conversion, Audi A8 4.2 quad cam, 4 discos plus a few other specials and then I spent a time building Cobras with the Ford big block V8. Despite the Deisel I have already earmarked the V8 that will eventually go in.

The Nissan VK50VE all Ali engine is mint.

Not to mention bikes but that's a whole other story.......
 
As for t he Porsche, I sold a mint 530 sport to get it anda it was the worst decision ever. Only had it a year and let's just say that the first day of ownership saw the engine let loose, then a new clutch at £3500 and new discs and pads all round at nearly £600 a corner meant that I didn't love it much lol.

.......

Got to love Porsche 996, Can't regrind the cranks and can't rebore 'em so if you lose the crank bearing that carries the cam drive at the front of the engine and it happens a lot, you might as well scrap it.
 
Yeah they are all ****e. It was the worst decision I made to get one. Like they say, never get your dream car or sleep with your dream girl. Guess Kylies safe them lol. Although Sandra Bullock would do, oh what about Scarlett Johansen in Iron Man 2. Umm black PVC all in one......
 
So last night, with the help of Matt Baxter, I got the seat belt mounts fitted to the rear of the Hornet. The night before i made new ones up out of 3mm box section with an additional 3mm plate on top. They are solid and much better than the originals.

Afterwards Matt and I decided to go for a trip out night lanning. having the temperatures in and around minus 7 was interesting as the puddles and ford we did find soon meant that the cars were covered in frozen water and mud. There is still ice and icicles hanging off the binnet and chassis lol

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Lets see your rear bumper GreenHornet?? :) Need to build one for mine... need ideas... although im looking at modifying my fuel tank guard and rear chassis member to accept a rear winch into the equation
 
Hi matty,

My rear bumper is looking ugly at the moment as it is just the main support that is done and mounted. Basically it's a 50x50 box section that goes along the back and wraps around the quarter panels. I have used 65x100x6 angle to clamp the rear cross member and utilised the towar bolt holes. I have started building in a class three hitch into the centre as well. It is very strong at the moment and will work really well but as I said, it's ugly at the moment and rusty at the edges.

I must admit I haven't thought of a winch at the rear. Probably a bit out for me at the moment
 
Today has been great.

We travelled from Farnham to Hindhead via many steady lanes. We greeted a tree on the way where, as you can see, I had to deflate the tyre to let us pass. Unfortunately this was the reason that the wood etc got I between the bead and the tyre later in the day, or was it just that bloody tight lane Matt? And before you ask, no I didn't drive with it deflated. This was the second time we had to let the air out I order to get the wood from the rim. Damn body lift.lol

Moving on after we deflated the tyre there was another tree that we squeezed under, sorry Hornet about the extra few scratches from that one lol.

It has been a great way to spend 4 hours. Good weather, fine lanes and great company. Cheers mate! Ready for next weekend the following will be looked at.

Change gearbox oil and extend these breathers.
Strip and clean the handbrake as it now doesn't work but sticks on.
Reseat the tyres to check for damage.
Get on board air sorted.
Find a CB Radio.

Fab day - just a fab day
 
Yep some of the lanes were a bit tight to say the least lol was a good day no real problems really so all good eh,
Unfortunately I am working on Saturday mate bugger really wanted a pub lunch ha ha
We stayed out and did a few more lanes found a lot to be closed but the ones that were open were pretty good
 
Well last weekend the handbrake decided to stick on and after a few hits with a hammer it still wasn't much cop. So I decided to strip it down and see what's what.

Now I am always a little apprehensive when doing work on the old girl but I thought that I would just get stuck in as it all seemed to be easy.

Stripping everything off was easy. Off came the gearbox end of the rear prop, tie wrapped that to the ar trailing a arm. Then unbolted the hand brake drum, undid the cable and then unbolted the back plate. All in all it took me about an hour just taking it steady and cleaning things off as I went.

So the problem was that the actuator mechanism was stuck and wouldn't release under the power of the springs attached to the brake shoes.

Anyway after stripping it all down I started to build it up. Took me about an hour and a half, taking it easy and taking photos. Lol

So here we have the backing plate. It is as you will see it on the vehicle. To the right is the actuator where the cable connects and to the left is the adjuster.

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Here is the back of the plate. The adjuster is attached by two 13mm bolts and the actuator (sorry if it's the wrong word) is held in place by sliding clips.

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The adjuster first. Here you can see the main adjuster. It screws into the housing so provides adjustment when wound in and out by pushing apart the plungers.

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Next I fitted the parts for the actuator. The centre plunger connects to the rod which in turn connects to the hand brake cable. When this moves in and out it pushes the two pistons out via the rollers. You have to make sure the rollers and the pistons are in the right way. If you get them arse about face when you pull on the cable they won't move at all as they are cambered.

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Here's the actuator complete with the brake shoes in place.

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The top of the backing plate is to the right. You can see I have marked the shoes before removal with Top Right and Bottom Right.

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With the shoes in place, I then fitted the drum. I thought that this was best and besides, what nobody wrote about was the fact that you can remove and replace the assembly as a whole unit. So on the bench I was able to easily adjust the shoes ready for fitting.
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So here is the back of the transfer box.

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The mounting bolts are screwed in and there is still plenty of room to get at them with a socket. Torque them up to either 25Nm or 18 lbsft, it's the same thing.

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The I fitted the drum
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Once the drum was bolted on I adjusted the shoes one more quarter turn.

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Then finally connected the hand brake cable to the rod and adjusted the cable to create the right amount of travel on the hand brake lever.

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There you go, all done.
 
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