Disco 3 (LR3) Discovery 3/4 vs RRS

I've decided that within 12 months (for mot reasons) I'm going to change my 2004 Freelander for something bigger/better. I want a Disco 3 or 4, but the Mrs is set on a Rangerover Sport. Please list as many reasons as possible that the Disco is the motor to have... I'm losing at moment

richfish1 said:

I've decided that within 12 months (for mot reasons) I'm going to change my 2004 Freelander for something bigger/better. I want a Disco 3 or 4, but the Mrs is set on a Rangerover Sport. Please list as many reasons as possible that the Disco is the motor to have... I'm losing at moment

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Hiya

Basically they virtually have the same chassis , running gear , with different bodies and interiors

That’s what I did from a FL 1 to a D3, personally best thing i ever did , is like night and day between them

Done a buyers guide if it helps

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/buyers-guide.312800/

Plus have u test driven a D3 and a RRS

Hope that helps

The disco is a huge box and can carry pretty much anything, the RRS cannot.
The disco suspension is pretty simple, the RRS has basically the same set up plus a newer version of ACE and its expensive and body off job to fix, I think some of the RRS have active dampers which are twice the price of the disco ones.
The disco is a great undercover car and nobody notices them, in the RRS everyone thinks you are a drug dealer and are rich.
The disco like discos of all ages are pretty much timeless/ageless and always look smart, the RR and the RRS seem to date very quickly.

The disco only has the v6 2.7/3.0 derv (there are petrol v8s but D3 v8 is rare, D4 v8 mega rare, the RR and RRS have some awesome engines that are yes youve guessed it very expensive when they go wrong, not if but when, though to be fair that pretty much applies to all modern cars of today.
The 2.7 and the 3.0 are available in both model line ups (change over year 2.7 to 3.0 was 2009 I think) and will do 20 around town, high 20s on any sort of run, petrols will bankrupt you.

Early D3 are starting to show signs of rust, the inner sill, either end where they are covered and all the eaves/mud gets trapped and the lower lip where the outer joins the inner, over the last couple of years Ive seen a fair few posts of people having to have them welded, catch it in time and wax the hell out of it and retreat annually and you will be fine.

If you turn up anywhere in a disco people will treat you as a normal person driving a typical boring car, the same cannot be said of any of the Range Rovers.
A high spec disco will have pretty much all the goodies the RR and RRS have

The 2.7 has its own foibles the main one being the cam belt tensioner/oil pump failing and writing the engine off and as D3 s age its not always worth spending for anothe rengine plus labour, new uprated oil pump fixes that once and for all, but has to be done as soon as you gte the car asap, not tomorrow or next week but straight away.
The 3.0 has a bit of a rep for cranks snapping which is obviously terminal, cam covers failing which take 12 hrs to replace, 1k per side Iirc?

Join the D3/4 forum and get reading, there shsit loads to learn and I have to say overall damned good cars if looked after.

Less people stress the RRS with towing so engines seem to last a bit better.

If you get a 2.7 V6 get a Jaguar S Type as well for spares.

L322 is a simple solution

Henry_b said:

L322 is a simple solution

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Hi buddy

The L322 , is that more complicated than the D3 would u think pls , with it being a rangie assume it will have more toys therefore more ecus

gstuart said:

Hi buddy

The L322 , is that more complicated than the D3 would u think pls , with it being a rangie assume it will have more toys therefore more ecus

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Really depends on the Model Gary.

A Vogue SE with all the Kit will be packed to the hilt with kit and leccy toys where a modestly modified HSE will be slightly less complicated in some regards.
IE less things to go wrong.
Yes an L322 is slightly more complex if you opt for a late model.

In regards to cost maintenance can vary i'd say it's the same as the D3/4 the problem with the early L322's and to an extent some of the 2006+ models is they have fallen out of the "sphere" of maintenance, where the cost of ownership overrides the cost of purchase and/or current value.

So they're either maintained to a low degree or not at all.

The same thing happened with the P38 my Vogue is a great example. Issues just piled and piled until she just stopped.

The key it to find a well maintained Jag powered one

Maintanance cost as I said is the same as the D3/4 prolly closer to the 4.

Henry_b said:

Really depends on the Model Gary.

A Vogue SE with all the Kit will be packed to the hilt with kit and leccy toys where a modestly modified HSE will be slightly less complicated in some regards.
IE less things to go wrong.
Yes an L322 is slightly more complex if you opt for a late model.

In regards to cost maintenance can vary i'd say it's the same as the D3/4 the problem with the early L322's and to an extent some of the 2006+ models is they have fallen out of the "sphere" of maintenance, where the cost of ownership overrides the cost of purchase and/or current value.

So they're either maintained to a low degree or not at all.

The same thing happened with the P38 my Vogue is a great example. Issues just piled and piled until she just stopped.

The key it to find a well maintained Jag powered one

Maintanance cost as I said is the same as the D3/4 prolly closer to the 4.

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Many thks as always

Ref the jag engine is that the 4.4 V8 petrol one plse , as if I remember jag didn’t build a Diesel engine for the L322 , also is it the 2007 - 2009 years that’s the best one to go for please, thks

Also wonder how many people buy these with all the toys then start to realise how much parts cost inc what it takes to keep them maintained , even things like checking before hand what a set of tyres cost, parts to do a full service , timing belts if req on that model , tax insurance inc running costs

Another reason I think that’s why the petrol ones seem to be priced lower where the owner hasn’t realised this and wants shot

Along with factoring the cost of a decent diagnostic reader, multimeter and a good set of tools

Must admit will strive towards a rangie one day , don’t want a sport though, prefer a FFRR , auto/ jag 4.4 V8 on LPG hopefully in black with tan coloured interior , without tinted windows , no running boards or chrome , plus body kit a big no, no

Hopefully

Got to have a good read up of what to look out for and there weaknesses etc , cost of suspension struts, compressor , if they need timing chains replaced , etc etc

Enjoying my D3 too much to sell it at the moment

Many thks as always and good to know a FFRR would be very roughly the same as my D3 , only thing is wouldn’t want the fully loaded one but know that sounds daft with it being a Range Rover , lol

Meant to ask, what jag engine has the 5 x valve per piston setup please or am I thinking of yamaha motorbikes , more then likely got it totally wrong , as usual, lol

Many thks

gstuart said:

Meant to ask, what jag engine has the 5 x valve per piston setup please or am I thinking of yamaha motorbikes , more then likely got it totally wrong , as usual, lol

Many thks

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Thats the old FZR I think motorbikes from a few decades ago

gstuart said:

Many thks as always

Ref the jag engine is that the 4.4 V8 petrol one plse , as if I remember jag didn’t build a Diesel engine for the L322 , also is it the 2007 - 2009 years that’s the best one to go for please, thks

Also wonder how many people buy these with all the toys then start to realise how much parts cost inc what it takes to keep them maintained , even things like checking before hand what a set of tyres cost, parts to do a full service , timing belts if req on that model , tax insurance inc running costs

Another reason I think that’s why the petrol ones seem to be priced lower where the owner hasn’t realised this and wants shot

Along with factoring the cost of a decent diagnostic reader, multimeter and a good set of tools

Must admit will strive towards a rangie one day , don’t want a sport though, prefer a FFRR , auto/ jag 4.4 V8 on LPG hopefully in black with tan coloured interior , without tinted windows , no running boards or chrome , plus body kit a big no, no

Hopefully

Got to have a good read up of what to look out for and there weaknesses etc , cost of suspension struts, compressor , if they need timing chains replaced , etc etc

Enjoying my D3 too much to sell it at the moment

Many thks as always and good to know a FFRR would be very roughly the same as my D3 , only thing is wouldn’t want the fully loaded one but know that sounds daft with it being a Range Rover , lol

Click to expand...

Few posts on the D3 forum ref the 4.4 not liking gas and eating its own valves, so what you save on 2.7/3.0 crank worries you spend on top end work and lots of petrol!!

Some good info ref the jag aj-v8 on wikipedia.

gstuart said:

Many thks as always

Ref the jag engine is that the 4.4 V8 petrol one plse , as if I remember jag didn’t build a Diesel engine for the L322 , also is it the 2007 - 2009 years that’s the best one to go for please, thks

Also wonder how many people buy these with all the toys then start to realise how much parts cost inc what it takes to keep them maintained , even things like checking before hand what a set of tyres cost, parts to do a full service , timing belts if req on that model , tax insurance inc running costs

Another reason I think that’s why the petrol ones seem to be priced lower where the owner hasn’t realised this and wants shot

Along with factoring the cost of a decent diagnostic reader, multimeter and a good set of tools

Must admit will strive towards a rangie one day , don’t want a sport though, prefer a FFRR , auto/ jag 4.4 V8 on LPG hopefully in black with tan coloured interior , without tinted windows , no running boards or chrome , plus body kit a big no, no

Hopefully

Got to have a good read up of what to look out for and there weaknesses etc , cost of suspension struts, compressor , if they need timing chains replaced , etc etc

Enjoying my D3 too much to sell it at the moment

Many thks as always and good to know a FFRR would be very roughly the same as my D3 , only thing is wouldn’t want the fully loaded one but know that sounds daft with it being a Range Rover , lol

Click to expand...

lynall said:

Few posts on the D3 forum ref the 4.4 not liking gas and eating its own valves, so what you save on 2.7/3.0 crank worries you spend on top end work and lots of petrol!!

Some good info ref the jag aj-v8 on wikipedia.

Click to expand...

Flashlube fixes that issue.

gstuart said:

Many thks as always

Ref the jag engine is that the 4.4 V8 petrol one plse , as if I remember jag didn’t build a Diesel engine for the L322 , also is it the 2007 - 2009 years that’s the best one to go for please, thks

Also wonder how many people buy these with all the toys then start to realise how much parts cost inc what it takes to keep them maintained , even things like checking before hand what a set of tyres cost, parts to do a full service , timing belts if req on that model , tax insurance inc running costs

Another reason I think that’s why the petrol ones seem to be priced lower where the owner hasn’t realised this and wants shot

Along with factoring the cost of a decent diagnostic reader, multimeter and a good set of tools

Must admit will strive towards a rangie one day , don’t want a sport though, prefer a FFRR , auto/ jag 4.4 V8 on LPG hopefully in black with tan coloured interior , without tinted windows , no running boards or chrome , plus body kit a big no, no

Hopefully

Got to have a good read up of what to look out for and there weaknesses etc , cost of suspension struts, compressor , if they need timing chains replaced , etc etc

Enjoying my D3 too much to sell it at the moment

Many thks as always and good to know a FFRR would be very roughly the same as my D3 , only thing is wouldn’t want the fully loaded one but know that sounds daft with it being a Range Rover , lol

Click to expand...

The 4.4 from 2006+ is the Jag unit also the 4.2 S/C from 2006 is the Jag motor.

Engine is bombproof you need flashlube for the LPG system @ukadamwest has a 4.2 on LPG and it runs well.

Basically anything inbetween both front and rear bumpers is an issue

Parts are about the same price wise as the D3/4

Watch out for rust around the rear rear arch around the secondary rubber seal, dirt and sħit finds its way and sits there, evntually eroding away the paint then the metal etc

Watch out also around the rear Seatbelt anchorage point and the rear subframe mounting area..

L322's aren't shy to rust, especially neglected ones.

Leather on the seats is quite thin the bolsters can wear through, especially where the piping is around the seats.

The Coolant Valley pipe can/will let go eventually on the AJV8 it's only real gripe, it's a 45min job on the N/A and a 4-6 hour job on the S/C

Watch for water in the boot, this'll affect the electrical components. - wheel well in the back is a good clue.

On and the seating position is not briliiant is you're over 6ft.

Weirdly if below it's rather comfy, i'm 6"2 so not too bad but after a while you suffer
friend of mine is 5"9 and finds it very comfy

@richfish1 . Get the feeling the word "sport" has a lot to do with the wife's desire for it! Why are women like my wife so eminently practical about everything except their choice of car? Then again I remember showing a girl I knew my "new" company car, she said "it's the same as the old one, isn't it? " I pointed out it was a Capri and the previous one was a MK3 Cortina. She just said "Well, it's the same colour!" (Which it was of course, metallic brown!) looking at me as if I was mental!

Henry_b said:

The 4.4 from 2006+ is the Jag unit also the 4.2 S/C from 2006 is the Jag motor.

Engine is bombproof you need flashlube for the LPG system @ukadamwest has a 4.2 on LPG and it runs well.

Basically anything inbetween both front and rear bumpers is an issue

Parts are about the same price wise as the D3/4

Watch out for rust around the rear rear arch around the secondary rubber seal, dirt and sħit finds its way and sits there, evntually eroding away the paint then the metal etc

Watch out also around the rear Seatbelt anchorage point and the rear subframe mounting area..

L322's aren't shy to rust, especially neglected ones.

Leather on the seats is quite thin the bolsters can wear through, especially where the piping is around the seats.

The Coolant Valley pipe can/will let go eventually on the AJV8 it's only real gripe, it's a 45min job on the N/A and a 4-6 hour job on the S/C

Watch for water in the boot, this'll affect the electrical components. - wheel well in the back is a good clue.

On and the seating position is not briliiant is you're over 6ft.

Weirdly if below it's rather comfy, i'm 6"2 so not too bad but after a while you suffer
friend of mine is 5"9 and finds it very comfy

Click to expand...

Many thks

Is this the system ur talking about plse

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/electronic-valve-protector/

Think I would prefer the non super charger , less to go wrong

Really appreciated ur reply

gstuart said:

Many thks

Is this the system ur talking about plse

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/electronic-valve-protector/

Think I would prefer the non super charger , less to go wrong

Really appreciated ur reply

View attachment 186231

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that's the one. have it on my L322 4.2SC as @Henry_b said, and also on my Cayenne

Nobody's mentioned that the D3/4 has 7 seats, or 5 seats and a huge boot, but the RRS only has 5 seats and a smaller boot.

Guy on mechs page on facebook ex recovery driver for over 17yrs reckons the most common land rover he recovered was the RR sport