Discovery 2 cold start problems

Update...
I decided to check the starter connections today whilst still waiting for the fuel pressure kit to arrive.
When underneath the car I found a wire wrapped up and twisted around the clutch slave cylinder pipe.
The wire goes to the oil filter housing? It's a white wire, and I found a black one snapped, any idea where the black wire connects?

Also I noticed oil around the crank sensor, I removed the plug to find a lot of oil in the plug, I then removed the sensor and found this covered in oil, could this be the cause of my starting issues? If so why only from cold?
Picture of the sensor is attached.
Thanks

Any clue where the oil is coming from?
I guess oil could be affecting the sensor or it's internal components....and I guess that influence could reduce as the viscosity of the oil reduces when the engine gets hot.....
Other tenuous and BS theories may be available.

Not sure where the oil has come from, it's just seems to be on the crank sensor plug and wiring? No signs anywhere else.
It apparently had a new clutch fitted before i brought it so maybe it's something they done?
There was also no "o" ring on the sensor, presumably there should be?
I have also found the top starter motor bolt loose which is a worry, il have another good look around it tomorrow

Sadly the top starter motor bolt being loose is not unknown where garages have been involved. It can be a right PITA to tighten and anecdotally at least, some garages have been known not to bother.

I am surprised the top bolt is hard to tighten. The nut at the back is harder to get to, but no excuse not to tighten. I am having problems with our car. There was no connection from the crank sensor plug to its pin on the eco red plug. I have ordered a new lead but have also noticed oil in the old crank sensor plug. I might just remove and clean the crank sensor before connecting up the new lead.

the top bolt isnt hard to tighten, you cant get a ratchet spanner on it fully but a ring spanner or socket fit easily , rear nut is fairly easy with a 3/8 long extension and uj through manifold if you remove map sensor

The rear nut can be reached easily with just a socket and extension from below. the overall length needs to be around 18cm (definitely under 19cm).

Hi all,
Iv just tried bump starting it and it started straight away.
Does this indicate a dodgy starter motor?
I'm going to try a bump start again in the morning just to confirm
Thanks

matt101 said:

Hi all,
Iv just tried bump starting it and it started straight away.
Does this indicate a dodgy starter motor?
I'm going to try a bump start again in the morning just to confirm
Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes, it suggests that either the starter is draining so much power that the ECU cannot run the injectors = no start
or, the contacts in the solenoid are so pitted and worn that there is substantial electrical arcing when the starter runs. This arcing causes electrical interference that disrupts the signal from the crank position sensor to the ECU = no start.
Replacing the starter in toto will fix both problems, but cost a fair bit. Replacing the contacts in the starter will fix the latter only, but at only around £10 for a repair kit may be worth trying first if you don't mind pulling it out again if current drain is the issue.

Thanks,
I don't think it's draining too much power as iv tried starting with a charger connected and also jump leads.
Il try the bump start again tomorrow, if it starts first time il remove and strip the starter and see what the contacts look like.
Thanks again, I will update tomorrow.

If the contacts are deeply pitted you should be able to do a workable repair with a dremel or emery paper until you can replace them.

When this happens in most cases the solenoid repair kit is not a cure cos the problem is in the starter's winding or at the collector so new starter is needed

When i changed the solenoid contacts on ours they were severely spark eroded and were only a fraction of the thickness of the replacement ones. The starter has been running for years now and works fine. I think it costs nothing to check the contacts and it is obvious if they are badly worn.

Hi again,
Tried bump starting again this morning and again she fired up straight away.
I then removed the starter and checked the contacts in the solenoid.
I found one side of the contacts had twisted?? This means that when the plunger goes down it's only making partial contact either side.
Anyway I have got a repair kit on order and I'm hoping this will finally be the end of my issues.
I have included a picture of the contacts, it's not clear that one side is twisted in the photo but it's the side with the larger contact.

"There's your problem right there." unquote

Repair kit fitted this morning and starter refitted.
Tried starting, started second attempt...
First attempt, turnt key, immediately went to start and died again, not so sure this was now my problem (but clearly not helping)I will leave it overnight and try again tomorrow.
I guess if it's still the same tomorrow the next step would be to get a replacement starter motor, I'm tempted to try a second hand one first before forking out on a new unit to find it doesn't solve the issue. Does this seem logical?
Thanks

As long as the engine started and the starter is not active when the engine dies the problem is elswhere, starter issues which can disturb the crank signal will not let it start whatsoever... but as you cranked it a lot before let the battery on charge over night and give it a 5 pedal purge mode before you crank it

Another update to this....
Starter repair kit didn't fix the issue, another known good replacement starter fitted, issue still present.

The issue is 100% outside temperature related. The car has been parked since Saturday, went out this afternoon and it started first turn (11 degrees outside temp).
I know if i try it tomorrow morning it will take 3/4 attempts at least.
I havnt tested the fuel pressure but it if was a fuel pressure issue then surely this fault would be occurring all the time?
The fact I can leave it 3/4 days and if the temp outside is warm it will start straight away makes me think I can rule fuel supply out?
Any other ideas on this? I'm thinking electrical issue somewhere? Iv had a quick look around and can't see any obvious signs of water ingress etc.
Thanks

matt101 said:

The issue is 100% outside temperature related. The car has been parked since Saturday, went out this afternoon and it started first turn (11 degrees outside temp).
I know if i try it tomorrow morning it will take 3/4 attempts at least.

Click to expand...

What about the glow plugs then?

@sierrafery I forgot to say the purge cycle makes no difference in the cold, it still takes several attempts to start.
Also I have charged the battery fully, and also tried starting it with the charger switched to boost - still takes several attempts on cold mornings.
The fuel and temp sensor readings show normal readings on the hawkeye, would it be worth replacing these two sensors anyway?