Disco Tray back build

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It was £50 from a private seller, it was built for a v8, but he wasn't sure what one as he was selling for a mate, looks very similar to the rover one!
I think you can buy similar ones new for about £100 on ebay
 
discomark10 said:
Had a few issues with alternators, the regulators keep dieing on me (water).
Found this - Driftgate 2000 - alternator Charge Controller,alternator Smart Regulator (buccaneer)
they cost allot but it should last a long time as I can mount it where it wont get hot and can be made waterproof easy. Then all ill have to worry about is the brush's and the diodes (diodes don't go often anywho) and i can use it on another alternator if the current one ####s up! They also have a few good features!

So, anyone had any experience with these? or any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I decided to consult the old man on the purchase as he is rather good with electronics and he said "why do you need that... I can make it for about £10!" ...Result!
only took him about an hour or so, going to test it tomorrow!
Happy bunny :cool:

Going to house it in a die-cast box so its 100% waterproof and away from the heat.
 
I have one silencer in my system

5" round, 2.5" bore, 19" long, glasspack

You haven't heard it but it sounds good, loud but not too loud and plenty of bass.
 
well, atm i just have a cherry bomb and its rather loud... very nice but loud. I'de like to quieten it down a bit so my neighbours don't want to kill me when i start it in the morning lol
 
The thing I was most pleased about this setup is it sounds deep and bassy at low rpms and is quiet at cruise but starts to bark above 3k and has a very good sound at the top end.

Cherry bomb isn't really capable of keeping the dbs down at low rpms so it can get a bit annoying/awkward when off roading and you can't hear your winch man!
 
Well.. I tested the regulator on Tuesday and it went in 5 secconds, we had a minor re-design and it seems to be working! Going to get it boxed up and give it a test run later or tomorrow .
The max voltage is about 14.37, Perfect!
 
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So the regulator seems to work, only time will tell how long it lasts as i only tested it for a couple min.
But... I have yet another issue! (done it before I put my regulator on)

When driving you can hear the fuel pump randomly speed up (higher pitch noise) and you get a jerky misfire but then its fine for until it happens again.
Could this be a dodgy fuel reg?
 
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Mr Noisy said:
I'd say more like you're getting a fuel starve at the pump mark...

You will hugely enjoy the difference a 1.4 box makes!
Click to expand...

what would be causing that? its only a short pipe to the pump then into the bottom of the tank, and the tanks almost full!

Yea the box will be a good edition!

An yet another note I picked up a D2 rear axle!
just need to get a set of rims!
Going to look at starting the 1 link soon, only question is, do I keep the rear setup as its fairly good... or do I go 1 link on the back also?
 
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Well tbh mate I don't know but if your pump is an inline pump maybe it needs a lift pump also? Or it's getting air somehow? Do you have a swirl pot?

Hook up a fuel pressure guage connected at the rail and see if your supply pressure drops when the problem occurs?!

D2 rear axle is on watts link, guess this is better than a panhard rod when articulating a lot at the rear as it won't cause the axle to move sideways on droop, but also I think the d1 setup is better for huge articulation, plus it would be much easier, personally I don't see why the A frame setup is a problem as it's pretty much a 4 link setup as is.

The front axle would be nice to ditch the panhard and then run 3 link. Do you use a ball joint/rose joint to allow for articulation about that 3rd link?

Tbh I'm no expert on suspension or how many links you need :p

I'm just concerned about my swivel balls BUT managed an off road day today without breakage, phew!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Well tbh mate I don't know but if your pump is an inline pump maybe it needs a lift pump also? Or it's getting air somehow? Do you have a swirl pot?

Hook up a fuel pressure guage connected at the rail and see if your supply pressure drops when the problem occurs?!

D2 rear axle is on watts link, guess this is better than a panhard rod when articulating a lot at the rear as it won't cause the axle to move sideways on droop, but also I think the d1 setup is better for huge articulation, plus it would be much easier, personally I don't see why the A frame setup is a problem as it's pretty much a 4 link setup as is.

The front axle would be nice to ditch the panhard and then run 3 link. Do you use a ball joint/rose joint to allow for articulation about that 3rd link?

Tbh I'm no expert on suspension or how many links you need :p

I'm just concerned about my swivel balls BUT managed an off road day today without breakage, phew!
Click to expand...

Not sure what's going on with it mate... wish I did! I've won a swirl pot on Friday so might just see what happens when that's fitted, as you say it might be an air issue.

Well I'm going for a 1 link for sure on the front, from the months of reading its a brilliant solution to the radius arm restrictions. 3 link is good but its tough to get a good outcome on a LR due to packing and you would still need a panard anyway's.

The rear I haven't decided if its staying on the A frame or going to 1 link also.
I've got to redo all the mounts on it no matter what I do with it!
 
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