Disco TD5 02 plate BLEEDING CLUTCH
- Thread starter mormond
- Start date
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sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,132
- Location
- Arad/Romania
No the engine must not run for this. I've struggled a lot with this some time ago... your procedure must work as well but u have to do it too many times and with new cylinders. If the master and slave cylinders are old u might not succede. Best way is the one from RAVE >
Bleeding
1. Top up reservoir.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle.
3. Connect tube to bleed screw on clutch slave
cylinder and submerge free end in a clear
container containing brake fluid.(u better put a funnel in the free end, fill it with fluid and keep it high)
4. Loosen bleed screw, then apply steady
pressure to the clutch pedal, depressing it
through its full stroke. Allow the pedal to return
unassisted.
5. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air-free
fluid is purged into the container.
6. Hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the
clutch bleed screw to 9 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
7. Check and top up reservoir.
CAUTION: Never re-use fluid that has been
bled from the system.
8. Remove stands and lower the vehicle.
And u have to do it with patience for quite long time(e.g. 20-30mins.). If no joy replace the cylinders.
After this procedure take a piece of wood or something and stick it between the pedal and the seat to keep the pedal fully depressed and leave it over night.... it's been verifyed by me ... i've learned it from a m8 on D2boysclub.... it's brilliant.
Bleeding
1. Top up reservoir.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle.
3. Connect tube to bleed screw on clutch slave
cylinder and submerge free end in a clear
container containing brake fluid.(u better put a funnel in the free end, fill it with fluid and keep it high)
4. Loosen bleed screw, then apply steady
pressure to the clutch pedal, depressing it
through its full stroke. Allow the pedal to return
unassisted.
5. Repeat the procedure until a flow of clean, air-free
fluid is purged into the container.
6. Hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the
clutch bleed screw to 9 Nm (7 lbf.ft).
7. Check and top up reservoir.
CAUTION: Never re-use fluid that has been
bled from the system.
8. Remove stands and lower the vehicle.
And u have to do it with patience for quite long time(e.g. 20-30mins.). If no joy replace the cylinders.
After this procedure take a piece of wood or something and stick it between the pedal and the seat to keep the pedal fully depressed and leave it over night.... it's been verifyed by me ... i've learned it from a m8 on D2boysclub.... it's brilliant.
Last edited:
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
sometimes you need to bleed master first by slackening pipe union press pedal down tighten union let pedal up repeat till clean fluid appears,if theres black at bottom or splashing in res you will need to replace master
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,132
- Location
- Arad/Romania
I respect too much your knowledge to argue but as far as i know(but i might be wrong) it's not too good to replace just one of the cylinders(especially the master) cos if this one is new and the slave is old, the slave will cede in short time and u'll have anyway to replace it and bleed again...(could happen the other way around too) ... Happened to me
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 91,879
- Location
- louth lincs
yes i would change both as a rule and often have to when refitting gearboxes
Had the same problem on my '03 disco
Tried everything on forums.
Pedal would hold while stationary or at idle but come and go while driving.
This is how I sorted it.
1. remove bleed nipple from slave cyl.
2. put ptfe on threads and refit - (careful not to cover inner bleed hole)
3. Connect 6mm clear neoprene hose to nipple and crack open
4. remove fluid reservoir cap and insert other end of hose
5. have an assistant pump the clutch while you watch fluid transfer
through hose.
6. when fluid runs clear - no bubbles - close bleed nipple
You should now have a full pedal without excess play.
Tried everything on forums.
Pedal would hold while stationary or at idle but come and go while driving.
This is how I sorted it.
1. remove bleed nipple from slave cyl.
2. put ptfe on threads and refit - (careful not to cover inner bleed hole)
3. Connect 6mm clear neoprene hose to nipple and crack open
4. remove fluid reservoir cap and insert other end of hose
5. have an assistant pump the clutch while you watch fluid transfer
through hose.
6. when fluid runs clear - no bubbles - close bleed nipple
You should now have a full pedal without excess play.
