Disco 2 D2 TD5 foolproof solo clutch bleeding for dummies

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Tango91

Well-Known Member
Posts
140
Location
Bideford, Devon
Yo,

I managed to sort the clutch on my D2 after problems following slave cylinder replacement and thought I’d share.

I’d been having problems bleeding the clutch, if you left it overnight with the pedal wedged down it would be ok for a while but you’d slowly lose the ability to change gears. Bleeding it out normally didn’t make a permanent difference, I guess there’s too many twists and turns in the clutch line that act as bubble traps, and you’d need a friend to top the reservoir up and/or a vacuum bleeder to pull all the air through fast enough.

My solution was to get a length of clear silicone tubing, and run it from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, up across the top of the windscreen wipers so I could see it from inside, and into the brake fluid reservoir that the clutch master feeds from.

i opened the bleeder screw enough to let the fluid move freely, and got in the car to smoothly pump the clutch, giving it a second inbetween to fill up again.

The amount of bubbles that came up that tube was mad, and it took more than 30 cycles of the pedal to come good, and just pump fluid around and back into the reservoir.

Once done, I wedged the pedal down and closed the bleeder, and bingo, perfect clutch. It’s been a few days and it seems to be staying good.

Pinch the tube closed at the bottom, pull it off the nipple and lift it up to let it drain back into the reservoir, make sure to get some on your paintwork for good measure.

Hope this helps someone else struggling to bleed the clutch :D
 
thats one way , I replaced my solid line with a flexi line and held the slave in nmy hand at the drivers door with a piece of wood screw over the piston to stop it coming out

20220626_102732.jpg
 
thats one way , I replaced my solid line with a flexi line and held the slave in nmy hand at the drivers door with a piece of wood screw over the piston to stop it coming out

View attachment 285352
Must admit I'd do it the second way, not that there is anything wrong with any way that works. but getting the slave above the height of the master cylinder means you'll always be using gravity rather than having it fighting against you. The bubbles will "want" to get out.
 
Yo,

I managed to sort the clutch on my D2 after problems following slave cylinder replacement and thought I’d share.

I’d been having problems bleeding the clutch, if you left it overnight with the pedal wedged down it would be ok for a while but you’d slowly lose the ability to change gears. Bleeding it out normally didn’t make a permanent difference, I guess there’s too many twists and turns in the clutch line that act as bubble traps, and you’d need a friend to top the reservoir up and/or a vacuum bleeder to pull all the air through fast enough.

My solution was to get a length of clear silicone tubing, and run it from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, up across the top of the windscreen wipers so I could see it from inside, and into the brake fluid reservoir that the clutch master feeds from.

i opened the bleeder screw enough to let the fluid move freely, and got in the car to smoothly pump the clutch, giving it a second inbetween to fill up again.

The amount of bubbles that came up that tube was mad, and it took more than 30 cycles of the pedal to come good, and just pump fluid around and back into the reservoir.

Once done, I wedged the pedal down and closed the bleeder, and bingo, perfect clutch. It’s been a few days and it seems to be staying good.

Pinch the tube closed at the bottom, pull it off the nipple and lift it up to let it drain back into the reservoir, make sure to get some on your paintwork for good measure.

Hope this helps someone else struggling to bleed the clutch :D
Well done for finally achieving your success.
 
Another way is to connect a long enough pipe to the slave as to reach the front wheel's bleed nipple, open the slave's bleeder to fill the pipe with fluid, connect it to the caliper's nipple, open that one too and depress the brake pedal about 15 times or so,this way you'll back bleed the system for good
 
Pulled all the bubbles out of my clutch line this afternoon with a vaccum bleeder. But Im still having issues with the clutch. First time driving with a new clutch fitted. Theres not much free pedal befre it bites, and now and again hard to select gears as its not fully disengaging. Im going to back bleed it, but could it be an issue with the master or slave as well ? Few pumps and its working, but soon starts to be an issue
 
could it be an issue with the master or slave as well ?
Yes it could be an issue especially if the cylinders are old cos the piston seal gets hurt by the edge of the internal wear of the body when it travels beyond it's normal path when the pressure is released from the rod, start with putting a new slave cylinder provided you are 100% certain that the drive plate was not fitted the other way around which is a common mistake. It should be fitted with the side pointed with red arrow toward the flywheel or it will never work well

upload_2023-4-2_23-35-35.jpeg
 
Clutch was fitted correctly.... I was very ocd about that, as I wouldnt want to remove the gearbox again... I'll order a new cylinder.

It was a LOF kit, everything was marked. Also fitted a new actuating rod.
 
When I use a vacum pump I put thick grease aroung the bleed nipple to stop it sucking in any air past the thread, but they are dificult to bleed
 
Well, new master and slave fitted. Fouud the issue, which was a broken seal in the master... just vacuum bleeding the clutch system, and let's see how it goes...
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20230422_161448.jpg
 
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