Disco 2 Radiator Removal/Install

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wiltshireflyer

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Wiltshire
HI everyone,

Im hoping someone on here has a good knowledge of my problem and fix. Today whilst out in the Disco (2001 Y - 3.9 V8) the hose between the top of the radiator and the thermostat housing burst away from the thermostat housing itself. On inspection of the thermostat housing after removal it seems that is was pretty knackered. The spring from the stat was loose inside. I am thinking this could have been the cause of poor warm up times after initial starting and a problem with overheating when idling for any length of time. Judging by the general condition of the housing and what remains of the stat I think it was definitely faulty!

To cut a long story short, the hoses seem in good condition but part of the housing came off with so much force that it has pierced the radiator. Can anyone here give me clear and concise instructions on rad removal/reinstallation on this model and how to replenish the system with coolant and how to bleed the air from the system CORRECTLY - or point me to an appropriate thread.

Thanks in advance.:doh:
 
have you a Haynes manual or RAVE?
Replace the 3 hoses off the stat while youre there & the stat itself.
It s a very easy job although you will have to remove the intercooler & the fan for ease of access.
Bleeding, I filled it til the res was full, started up & kept toppin up as it dropped over the course of 20 minutes or so
 
Its a v8 foss so no intercooler lol, When you have changed the rad the correct way to bleed it is to remove the bleed srew in the top hose right in the center of the hose that runs behind the rad plastic thing with cut out for flat head srew driver. remove this be carefull though as its easy to break then fill the cool bottle up until coolant comes out from where you have removed the bleed srew and their should be only coolant coming out no air bubbles before you refit the srew. Its a great deal to go into in words on how to remove the rad but it is very straight faward, you will need to disconect the oil cooler hoses if its an auto also. Dan
 
like this?


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGU3iHW7npU&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube- FORD GT (GT40) TWIN TURBO[/ame]




Oi TD5 - why aint yu checking my cables? :bolt:
 
Last edited:
Its a v8 foss so no intercooler lol, When you have changed the rad the correct way to bleed it is to remove the bleed srew in the top hose right in the center of the hose that runs behind the rad plastic thing with cut out for flat head srew driver. remove this be carefull though as its easy to break then fill the cool bottle up until coolant comes out from where you have removed the bleed srew and their should be only coolant coming out no air bubbles before you refit the srew. Its a great deal to go into in words on how to remove the rad but it is very straight faward, you will need to disconect the oil cooler hoses if its an auto also. Dan

Cheers Dan,

When bleeding, do I need to run the heater on hot function whilst filling rad/expansion tank etc? Also, will I need to warn the engine enough to allow the stat to open and allow water into the top of the rad, then switch off and refill/top up with bleed screw open? Im very mechanically minded, but have never beld one of these Discos before, and Im told they are a bugger to bleed properly and if not done correctly, will give many problems.
 
The heater runs open all the time, it is an air mixing type, so no valve.

The circulation is a little complex on the V8 but works well. The circuit is just through the heater pipes when cold, the radiator is not in circuit at all until the thermostat opens.

There is a small bleed pipe that runs across the top of the radiator to the header tank. This MUST be clear, and the stainless steel needle in the header tank that it connects to must also be clear. The hole in the needle is tiny, so pull the pipes off the header tank and give it a blow through from the small pipe spigot inlet. Parts 13, 14 and 25 in the picture.

Peter
 

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