Disco 1 V8 autobox query but other models relevant

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Enzian

Well-Known Member
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374
Location
West
Aye Up,

New to auto gearboxes I recently learned that checking the oil without the engine running isn’t the thing to do.

I’d been checking mine in same way that I would check the engine oil (cold, engine off) and it had always been up to the top level on the dipstick.

Reading both Haynes and numerous threads on this site suggests similar but different procedures re the correct process - in P; in N; run through shift positions.

When I did this I discovered to my horror that Oil wasn’t showing on the stick at all!, And I’d recently done 500+ miles in it!,,,,

Someone in one thread did allude to some manufacturers putting running and not running demarcations on the autobox dipstick.

So here are my questions -

1. If I follow the correct procedure for checking the oil level, do I top up (via the dipstick tube) with the engine still running or do I switch it off?

2. Once the correct level is achieved with the engine running, when I switch it off and allow everything to settle, should I then expect the level to register high on the dipstick with everything cold and not running?

3. If 2 above is the case, if I put my own mark on the dipstick at that level will this subsequently give an accurate reading for checking without starting the engine and running through the shift positions or is it the case that oil might be held somehow within the gearbox and therefore only give intermittently accurate readings?

4. Has anyone come up with an effective DIY way to completely flush through/oil change an auto box as £300 for an agent to do it sounds ridiculously excessive?

Thanks.
 
To be honest, pay the £300, I did loads over the years and it's always a ball ache and messy.

Always check as per manual as the some manufacturers build boxes differently and you may well find that the fluid ends up half way up the spring lol

It isn't hard and if you know the sequence for checking that properly then what's the big deal?
 
The engine should be running and upto temp, cycle her through the gears before checking.

With the engine running the level should be in between the thatch marks on the stick.

Don't go dropping a drum in there as the Min and Max levels are around 250ml apart!

Overfilling is not recommended on an auto!

£300 for a service on a 4hp22 is hilarious IMO, it is a 1hr job at most!! lol

The "cold level" on an Auto isn't to be trusted as the pump isn't running and the excess oil from the cooler drains back into the sump giving an inaccurate reading! #

THE OIL SHOULD BE CHECK WHEN RUNNING!! if you're topping it up!

If you've dropped the oil and are changing it don't run the engine until there is atlest 3 litres in the sump


Don't flush it Just drop the oil from the sump - and change it!

You can do the filter aswell, just be warned that the sump bolts can sieze and snap off if it hasn;t been serviced in a wile, soak them in WD before removing, doing it periodically in the weeks leading upto the change!



Dextron III fluid. etc etc
 
Addendum to the above -

I am now totally confused!

On at least half a dozen previous occasions that I have done a cold non-running check the level has shown at the top mark on the dipstick.

Having posted the above this morning and having waited for a few hours for advice, I went back to the truck and checked the autobox, oil cold, no engine running.
On this occasion it is showing way above the upper fill level mark without any oil having yet been added after yesterday’s running check - but still off the stick whilst running?
 
Enzian said:
Addendum to the above -

I am now totally confused!

On at least half a dozen previous occasions that I have done a cold non-running check the level has shown at the top mark on the dipstick.

Having posted the above this morning and having waited for a few hours for advice, I went back to the truck and checked the autobox, oil cold, no engine running.
On this occasion it is showing way above the upper fill level mark without any oil having yet been added after yesterday’s running check - but still off the stick whilst running?
Click to expand...

OK..

when the engine isn't running and the Autobox pump isn't pumping, the excess oil from the cooler and valvebody etc etc drains back into the sump and makes the level appear hilariously high!

When running the oil is sucked out of the sump and is running round the box and the level drops.

reading a cold level isn't recommended as per the above!

The level appears to rise the longer the car is sat, as more oil finds its way into the sump!

ALWAYS CHECK ON A LEVEL WITH THE ENGINE UPTO TEMP!

CYCLE THROUGH THE GEARS PAUSING IN EACH FOR 3 SECONDS THEN CHECK!!

It should either be on MAX or INBETWEEN THE MARKS!!

NEVER BELOW MIN!!
TOP UP IN SMALL INCREMENTS!!
 
Aye Up,

Thanks for the replies which only came through after I posted the addendum?

I hear what you are saying diesel dog but £300 is insane, as Henry B says for an hours work

Aaah, now that I have your second post Henry things make a bit more sense.

I will go and carry out your procedure and report back later.

Thanks very much both.
 
here ya go.

I'm using a non LR product for this demo but it's the same!

Note the fluid level when cold!

It appears to be 3/4 the way up the stick!!

YHrf2Jzl.jpg


However with the engine running

It goes down to full!

1SWrK5Sl.jpg


Hard to see coz the fluid is like new but ya get the gist!

Colour is also important you want it like this, in an ideal world!

v5cdaSCl.jpg


P7Qew5bl.jpg


PINK!!

Brown is acceptable it is just dirty/worn - change it!

BLACK is very bad and i'd change it but don't FLUSH IT!!
 
Aye Up,

Henry, Thanks very much for going to the trouble of posting that info AND with phots.

I’ve just followed your procedure to the letter and now have the running level exactly at the high mark on the stick.

It took a full litre added in 250ml increments. Not too low as a percentage of 9 litres perhaps but not ideal.

The oil is that nice pink/cherry red colour shown in your phots so I’m assuming all is well.

Another (assisted) climb on the learning curve of Disco V8 auto ownership.

Thanks very much again.
 
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

Henry, Thanks very much for going to the trouble of posting that info AND with phots.

I’ve just followed your procedure to the letter and now have the running level exactly at the high mark on the stick.

It took a full litre added in 250ml increments. Not too low as a percentage of 9 litres perhaps but not ideal.

The oil is that nice pink/cherry red colour shown in your phots so I’m assuming all is well.

Another (assisted) climb on the learning curve of Disco V8 auto ownership.

Thanks very much again.
Click to expand...


Good to hear you topped her up!

It should run better now ;)

I'd keep an eye out for a leak Imo ;)

If it's cherry red then that is good! ;)
 
Ok the answers to your questions.
1. Switch the engine off, why not? Safety 1st.

2. See link below.
I’ve always checked the fluid level cold as same time as the engine oil, but LR doesn’t mentioned temps. Some vehicles I’ve owned have two markings on the dip stick, stated as cold & hot which is the higher one.

3. Check the fluid level later and it should still be around the level stated in the link when checking.

4. The last time I had the fluid changed was 2010 by a large independent LR garage when I had a full service done at £550.00, of which was £150.00 because I also requested the auto box fluid change, back then I thought it was good value with the amount of work involved and only a driveway to do it.
So the cost today could be £300 but as always ‘shop around’ the price will be for the job not the time taken. There’s more involved than just time :)
 

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discool said:
Ho dear, you mean I should have read your post so which one would that be ?
After 33 years with LR autos it’s never done me an harm checking cold as I stated above. :)
Click to expand...

Post number #5.
according to me, and the manual the correct way is listed as.

checking when running.

As i stated the Pump stops pumping and the oil from the cooler and various galleries in the box dumps oil back into the sump giving an inaccurate reading.

But each their own.

I've serviced a fair few.
 
Ok, fortunately both of my LR vehicles could/can reach quote: “up to temp” in five minutes according to the dash gauge.
My rationale is that heat transfer from the engine to the gearbox isn’t that quick, even though there’s an exhaust pipe either side, therefore the gearbox fluid is still cold in relation to its normal gearbox running temperature, which can be very hot at times.
 
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

Thanks for the replies which only came through after I posted the addendum?

I hear what you are saying diesel dog but £300 is insane, as Henry B says for an hours work

Aaah, now that I have your second post Henry things make a bit more sense.

I will go and carry out your procedure and report back later.

Thanks very much both.
Click to expand...

Thought you wanted it flushed? £300 for full fluid flush seems right as it is more involved than Henry's 1hr fluid and filter.
 
dieseldog69 said:
Thought you wanted it flushed? £300 for full fluid flush seems right as it is more involved than Henry's 1hr fluid and filter.
Click to expand...

The flush on an ageing Auto isn't recommended.

TBH regular fluid changes should deliver the same result.

Drop the sump which is around a 50% of the fluid.

Replace run around for a few hundred miles, drop again etc etc

Works well.

Depends on the fluid colour.

If it's red/clean no need to flush.

Brown you could flush it but regular changes over a few thousand miles will do the trick

If it's black just drop the sump.

Don't flush it, the box is ****ed.
 
Henry_b said:
The flush on an ageing Auto isn't recommended.

TBH regular fluid changes should deliver the same result.

Drop the sump which is around a 50% of the fluid.

Replace run around for a few hundred miles, drop again etc etc

Works well.

Depends on the fluid colour.

If it's red/clean no need to flush.

Brown you could flush it but regular changes over a few thousand miles will do the trick

If it's black just drop the sump.

Don't flush it, the box is ****ed.
Click to expand...

Full service inclusive of transmission oil and filter should be around £400 for a D1.
 
Henry_b said:
Bloody hell

The garage i worked at would charge that to service an 6hp ZF!
Click to expand...

Good, at least they were keeping that garbage out the workshop ;)

My local garage will do a the full shebang for £400 which consists of

2 axles inc the swivels

engine oil and filter

air filter

transmission fluid

transfer box oil

wheels off and check brake pads and wheel bearings

pry bar to check the bushings

check all the lights and instruments

I saw a garage recently offering oil and filter change for £49 :oops: You can't make money on that.
 
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