Diff lock won't disengage

Just got back from some green lanes and my diff lock won't disengage in my 300tdi. Slipped straight back in to high range the leaver goes freely over to the right but the light is still on the dash and the lock is still on.
Helpppppppp lol any ideas chaps

Try reversing for a couple of hundred yards.

Try reversing as that can disengage it

you will have to do it underneathe with 13mm spanner (anti clockwise) linkage at bottom of lever connecting to selector often breaks ,or could be switch in a little too far holding selector in box or adjustment needed ,collar in box is spring loaded by lever and more movement of cab lever is needed than is needed to select in/out

jamesmartin said:

you will have to do it underneathe with 13mm spanner (anti clockwise) linkage at bottom of lever connecting to selector often breaks ,or could be switch in a little too far holding selector in box or adjustment needed ,collar in box is spring loaded by lever and more movement of cab lever is needed than is needed to select in/out

Click to expand...

Or just try reversing hard for a few yards. :doh::doh:

**** me jm, you do talk some crap. :hysterically_laughi

Have you actually driven a Land Rover??

Slow build up or just floor it? Lol

You might find this useful -

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H0AM-SXwSY]Diff Locks Last Stand (Rated PG) - YouTube[/ame]

tom_kent said:

Slow build up or just floor it? Lol

Click to expand...

I by far prefer a slow build up and a flat out finish. Dorris seems to like the same too.

Nice video mate! Did you do a second part???
The problem i've got is that it won't stay IN difflock!

Daz

DISCOVERY1-DAZ said:

Nice video mate! Did you do a second part???
The problem i've got is that it won't stay IN difflock!

Daz

Click to expand...

Not my video.... I had hoped that maybe it would demonstrate the 'mechanism' by which it is engaged or disengaged.... It hads some comedic value too.

jamesmartin said:

you will have to do it underneathe with 13mm spanner (anti clockwise) linkage at bottom of lever connecting to selector often breaks ,or could be switch in a little too far holding selector in box or adjustment needed ,collar in box is spring loaded by lever and more movement of cab lever is needed than is needed to select in/out

Click to expand...

This happened to me last weekend the linkage had come apart, the nut & washer had fell off and landed on top of transfer box. I removed the centre console and rubber gators to get to the problem.

Dartmoor Navigator said:

Not my video.... I had hoped that maybe it would demonstrate the 'mechanism' by which it is engaged or disengaged.... It hads some comedic value too.

Click to expand...

It does show the linkage in detail which is good. Don't fancy cutting holes in the gearbox cover to get to it though!!
Will have a look at it when i can.
Any tips would be good though!

Cheers
Daz

Vid title "And now for something completly different" informative never the less
Dev

you dont need to .removing center consol and rubber gaiter covering tunnel hole isnt that long/hard a job ,for 300 top of linkage were it joins lever assembly is bolted unlike pin on the 200 tdi in vid you need 7mm and 8 mm spanners,bottom link that joins to selector lever on t/box should have a clip so that it doesnt pull out like that one ,normally you undo 13 mm spanner size nut to remove linkage, its all accessable through tunnel but would have been easier quicker to unbolt mounts for transmission and lower it on a jack that removing seat,carpet to cut hole ,contray to some opinion pivot eye bolt for diff lock linkage often needs adjusting to give equall movement in/out of diff lock ,dont lose top hat plastic bushes in eye bolt though, there is nothing wrong with elongating gate plate on lever housing you cant over select,jacking one front wheel up so you can get some one to spin it while you check selection of hi/low and diff lock inout

Lol only bloody worked