Diff ? half shft ?? transfer box ???

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300tdistu

300tdistu

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blackpool
yet another pay n play and another problem :confused:, i was going up a hill and heard a bang/crack noise from the back end :eek:, so then only had the 2 front wheels with power :mad:. so think its the diff or half shaft ???

so had to drive home in high diff lock on the way heard a bang/clunk from front wheels :eek::eek: still got drive so carry on. then i can hear a knocking noise from the front wheels 20 miles on :confused::confused::confused: 10 mile home yet.. when slowing down at a round about 1 mile off home the front wheels locked up :mad: had to revers so i could drive forward, this happened 3 times on the last mile :eek: so try ed high box again and had drive again :eek::eek: this worked for a short time, then lost it again so went back to high diff lock and got home.

if anyone could thanks
 
too complicated for my little brain. But maybe this can help - if a tooth goes on a diff planet gear you lose drive, but if the planet gears move, eg by going round a bend, you get drive again, until next time you get to the missing tooth (remember, the planet gears only move when the relative speed of the wheels changes). So part of what you say is consistent with stripping a tooth on the rear diff. By driving it on the front, you would move the planet gears next time you go round a bend, and the rear drive would kick in again.
Now at this point you've got 4 wheel drive again plus difflock, which will wind up the transmission and MAY cause the further problems you mentioned. Of course you would lose the rear drive again next time the missing tooth comes round.
I hope this makes sense. It's my memory going back about 35 years. I'm happy to be rubbished.
 
as simpal as that ?? what about the bang/clunks from front wheels ?? is that nothin to worry about ??

how do i take a diff out never done this before
 
You need to find the actual problems, no point anyone just tossing in odd suggestions as to what might have broke. So I'd start where it broke first, at the rear.

First I'd check the rear prop and UJ's. Then take the drive caps off and half shafts out .. that'll determine if it's them. If all so far has been OK then you need to check the diff .. but frankly it does sound like the diff .... So maybe worth dropping it anyway.

Then do the same for the front .. but you've got the additional problems of CV jints and swivels etc to contend with.

Likely to be a long, awkward job just seeing what's broke, let alone fixing it, especially if, as it sounds, you might have done both ends and maybe fecked the cdl too ... good luck.
 
Likely to be a long, awkward job just seeing what's broke,:mad::doh::mad: especially if, as it sounds, i might have done both ends :doh::doh::doh: and maybe fecked the cdl too ... :eek::eek::eek::eek: what is the cdl :confused::confused:

all this is new to me,... i think i know how to take the back half shaft out but thats about all, how do i get the diff out ?? as i will need to know what splinne it is so iv been told
 
Its a piece of ****. Get yoself 3 or 4 half shaft gaskets and a couple of diff gaskets. Drain the oil. Remove the two halfshafts. Support the nose if the diff with a jack, remove the ring of nuts except the top one, which you leave loose. Wriggle the diff nose to break the seal. Careful use of a screwdriver might be needed to break the seal. Once lose, remive the last nut and CAREFULLY lower the diff. It is very heavy if it falls off the jack. Two peeps make it easier.

Having said that, Buster has, modt likely written it up.
 
Centre diff lock ... ;)

As MHM says .. but you need to do it front and rear, but start at the easier end, the back, and see how it goes .. :)
 
So far it sounds as though people are agreeing with my hesitant diagnosis. So yes, I'd follow the suggestions - take out the rear diff as instructed and see whether that's the problem - also checking drive shafts etc. It's possible to rebuild the diff but if you're not an engineer a recon or second hand one is a better bet. Once you are sure the back axle is working, jack up the front end and check out the rest looking for excessive play, lack of drive to wheels, etc - you may be lucky and not have broken anything else. Check and repack or replace any bearings you may expose in the process. Must say that I've done this, with he;lp, in the past, but nowadays I'd get a mechanic in. It's not a hard job, but some mechanical nouse helps!
 
well had a chat over the phone with the mechanic i use, he said between £200 up to £500ish if its both,at the most.. he can do me a second hand diff for £50, half shafts for £30... but i dont like what he said,,, he wants to start at the front end ?? when i asked why he said more to go wrong at the front end !! it can only be a diff or half shaft at the back !!! so i think he wants a xmas bonus out of me, lol. i think paul and the rest of u are right start at the back where it went 1st.... mechanical nouse helps! as postmaaster says but am not gona get that if i dont try and fix it my self am i. if anyone has any photo of this job being done could they post um
 
Definately rear diff let go!! :eek: The reason the front is makin noises and locking up is because you never took the rear prop off. Bits of broken diff are gettin among bits what is still goin round - they dont like this. With diff lock engaged, the transmission becomes solid and a lock up at the back will also lock the front.

MHM has experienced this in mine when one of my many rear diffs let go. To swap the diff requires a 9/16" socket, and a couple of 9/!6" spanners. remove the rear prop, the 2 half shafts and undo the 10 or so nuts that hold the diff to the casing. Pull diff out, quite heavy and you need to keep it staright otherwise it jams up.

Next spend lots of time cleaning all the little bits of broken gears and teeth from inside the diff casing. After practicing several times, I can swap a diff in about an hour & half.

Second hand diffs vary massively in price, I always keep an eye out on flea bay for private sellers rather than breakers. Have paid as little as £5.51 up to £25.00 for diffs, an just got a new spare for a tenner.
 
Only reason I'm saying it's a long and awkward job is 'cos you're new to it .. as has been said, dropping a diff is harder thinking about it than actually doing it! Best to do it with a mate/friend but easily do-able on your own with a trolley jack and woodblock.

When you take out the half-shafts, even if one's broken I'd still suggest taking the diff out anyway ... better to be sure than replace a shaft, get it all back together and find the diff has bits of half-shaft spline stuck in it .. ;)
 
i wonder what the wife would say if i asked her to take back the watch she so kindly got me for Xmas (kids told me by mistake) and get me a trolley jack, woodblock and some parts !!! :emps1:
 
I had the same problem in my series - broken rear diff - it sounded like the gearbix was trying to get out thru the cab :(.
As DV says - ensure you wash it out well with petrol.
Why dint yu ask if anyone near yu is prepared to give yu a mornings help? Itshoulnt take yu more thanthat, even taking your time, to strip it all down. You can then flush it in yo own time. Reassembly is the same in reverse.
 
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