Diesel Pump sorted, went to the new mechanic (with Grrrr) He changed 4 seals before it stopped, changed the leak off pipes and other things, and didn't charge me extra, he admitted to us, he didn't know about Land Rovers, Or Range Rovers... but he knows all about BMW engines, he has diagnostics, from the little that I looked at on YouTube he followed the correct procedures, and was very clean using lots of rags, and cleaners, and air, so he didn't contaminate anything, highly recommended independent, he will have a look as to why my RR is so sluggish from start to acceleration, and why its so slow (snails pace) in reverse, he thinks it could be the turbo boost, but will look at it when he come back from holiday, he also had a look at Grrr's problem, so I now have a new mechanic, that isn't ripping me off and it very competent, it took 3 hours and he charged me £100... I am well happy
Diesel Pump sorted
- Thread starter Dopey
- Start date
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Littelwill
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Well done! Good to hear you've got the pump sorted. And a £100!! Sounds like you were ripping him off haha 
Are you glad you didn't sell it now.....?
Are you glad you didn't sell it now.....?
Littelwill
Well-Known Member
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That makes a HUGE difference someone that can diagnose and repair rather than just insist on fitting new costly parts is a contact well worth having!
how big was the grin on the way home lol
how big was the grin on the way home lol
Datatek
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What year is you car?
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1997 iirc....
Datatek
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OK, so pre EGR. In that case I would look at the MAP sensor pipe and the manifold take off. Would be good to check the sensor is working on diagnostics too.
Datatek
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You sure he also changed the pipe to the MAP sensor located on the fuel filter? Even if he did, was the spigot under the manifold checked for blockage? The sensor could also be faulty, happens more often than turbo boost problems.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
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Yes, he changed the pipe. Took one look at the pipe and said, that's not right. Changed all the leak off pipes because he didn't like the look of those either.
He told me what was wrong with the turbo. Cannot remember what he called the part now. Says it just needs taking apart and cleaning and it'll be as good as new. Warns the fifth (bottom) seal will go on the FIP before long though judging from the state of the others.
FIP seals: inlet manifold off and anything else in the way. Clean and dry everything. Slightest bit of dirt can stuff the FIP or the electronics in the top. Take top 2/3rds off, marking 3 lines on side nearest engine and 1 mark on adjoining sides each so you left/right, up and down & rotation movement to refit. Once top 2/3rds off split the top part on the bench. Thoroughly clean and polish all mating surfaces. All bolts and nuts cleaned and polished with wire brush to ensue no dirt anywhere. New gaskets and reassemble. When putting tiop 2/3rds back on last third left on engine make sure the throttle shaft engages with the round hole on the square bit that slides up and down the shaft in the bottom third of the pump. He checked by sliding the top 2/3rds along and then lifting a side to check the square slide had moved. If it doesn't the care will go to max-revs on starting. Once sure it is engaged then line up your marks and refit bolts. Round gaskets for the 2 ports at the bottom (1 each side): 2 bolts each but be really careful because there's a spring so ease out really carefully. On the end of the spring is a copper washer that is vital and it may not drop immediately so be ready for it. As ever, cleanliness is key. The last big gasket is the bottom one but he says only do it on a bench with injector output pointing skywards. Never got to see this.
He spent 7 years working as a BMW diesel specialist. Knows them inside out. Very interesting to watch and talk to. Think we've found our diesel specialist down here. Says he'll replace the EDC chip so hot-start not required (requires a bit of a loom change) and map it so you've 30% more power for £200. Guess he could leave the immobiliser code off so no more synch issues too if you ask him.
Thanks for inviting me down, Dopey. Really good to watch and talk to someone like that. Also, please thank your wife for breakfast. Not had a breakfast like that for a while. Only had to eat this evening. All the best, Grrrrrr.
He told me what was wrong with the turbo. Cannot remember what he called the part now. Says it just needs taking apart and cleaning and it'll be as good as new. Warns the fifth (bottom) seal will go on the FIP before long though judging from the state of the others.
FIP seals: inlet manifold off and anything else in the way. Clean and dry everything. Slightest bit of dirt can stuff the FIP or the electronics in the top. Take top 2/3rds off, marking 3 lines on side nearest engine and 1 mark on adjoining sides each so you left/right, up and down & rotation movement to refit. Once top 2/3rds off split the top part on the bench. Thoroughly clean and polish all mating surfaces. All bolts and nuts cleaned and polished with wire brush to ensue no dirt anywhere. New gaskets and reassemble. When putting tiop 2/3rds back on last third left on engine make sure the throttle shaft engages with the round hole on the square bit that slides up and down the shaft in the bottom third of the pump. He checked by sliding the top 2/3rds along and then lifting a side to check the square slide had moved. If it doesn't the care will go to max-revs on starting. Once sure it is engaged then line up your marks and refit bolts. Round gaskets for the 2 ports at the bottom (1 each side): 2 bolts each but be really careful because there's a spring so ease out really carefully. On the end of the spring is a copper washer that is vital and it may not drop immediately so be ready for it. As ever, cleanliness is key. The last big gasket is the bottom one but he says only do it on a bench with injector output pointing skywards. Never got to see this.
He spent 7 years working as a BMW diesel specialist. Knows them inside out. Very interesting to watch and talk to. Think we've found our diesel specialist down here. Says he'll replace the EDC chip so hot-start not required (requires a bit of a loom change) and map it so you've 30% more power for £200. Guess he could leave the immobiliser code off so no more synch issues too if you ask him.
Thanks for inviting me down, Dopey. Really good to watch and talk to someone like that. Also, please thank your wife for breakfast. Not had a breakfast like that for a while. Only had to eat this evening. All the best, Grrrrrr.
Last edited:
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
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Only thing that worries me about the remap thing is whether the torque curve would suit a Range Rover. He knows the M51 inside out but freely admits he hasn't worked on many Range Rovers. I kind of think there must be a reason Land Rover chose the mapping they did and I like things original so think I'll probably leave mine as it is.
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Not unless he fits a brand new ECU and leaves non robust he can't.
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
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- 19,818
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
That's exactly what he does! He has a whole try of chips. Desolders the old one and solders a new one in place. He's only interested in diesel engines. Refuses to touch petrol or brakes or anything else.
Forgot one other thing: don't bother with the special tool to get the security bolt off the corner of the pump. He had one but Dopey's was so tight it just wrecked his tool. In the end (yes, you guessed it!) he hammered a 7mm socket on and undid it with that. Might as well save yourself the expense and go straight to plan B.
Forgot one other thing: don't bother with the special tool to get the security bolt off the corner of the pump. He had one but Dopey's was so tight it just wrecked his tool. In the end (yes, you guessed it!) he hammered a 7mm socket on and undid it with that. Might as well save yourself the expense and go straight to plan B.
jamesmartin
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I am always glad I didn't sell it... but the good thing as well is I have found a good mechanic... rather than a fitter
worth a few quid a decent guy is ,some people seem happy to spend a good deal with your usual part changing diagnostics
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I rather think that was suggested. The ECU map chip does not contain the security code. Once ECU is set robust car will always need sync with BECM.
tnseal
Active Member
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I have a problem with my P38. I was at the MOT and it started to misfire, drove home with lack of throttle responce, tank pump has now been replaced. But I cannot get it to start before or after it was replaced. I thought the lack of diesel was the problem (Nanocom showed low fuel flow) No faults on the system, yet not starting. I could really do with speaking with a good techy guy like yours, if its possible PM me a phone number.
Datatek
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You have posted the same question twice.
