diesel overheat

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Just been talking to the misses and she made a good point
About two weeks ago i had the top seal on the fuelpump replaced
The guy that did it said the waterpipe under the intake manifold was split during the job now he replaced it but!
When he refilled the water has he put any antifreeze in itcos it was snowing when it happen and could have started with a frozen pipe?
Any comments?
 
gfromleeds said:
Just been talking to the misses and she made a good point
About two weeks ago i had the top seal on the fuelpump replaced
The guy that did it said the waterpipe under the intake manifold was split during the job now he replaced it but!
When he refilled the water has he put any antifreeze in itcos it was snowing when it happen and could have started with a frozen pipe?
Any comments?
Click to expand...

Your water pump isn't going to like ice!! especially a plastic one!!
 
gfromleeds said:
Just been talking to the misses and she made a good point
About two weeks ago i had the top seal on the fuelpump replaced
The guy that did it said the waterpipe under the intake manifold was split during the job now he replaced it but!
When he refilled the water has he put any antifreeze in itcos it was snowing when it happen and could have started with a frozen pipe?
Any comments?
Click to expand...

Think had better have a look at the pump, if it's that, pray to whatever you pray to, it did not crack the head when it overheated.
 
gfromleeds said:
Worst case we do find gasses in the water
How do you tell if its head or gasket?
Only asking cos at dinner i sat with cap off running and every now and then small bubbles rose up
So starting to think it might have gone but did it overheat because of the leak or is the leak because of the overheat
Feels abit like the Chicken or the egg senario
Click to expand...
If you just have water in the cooling system, a few bubbles as the water heats up is normal, look at the bottom of a kettle as it boils, you will see lots of bubbles forming.
 
Datatek said:
If you just have water in the cooling system, a few bubbles as the water heats up is normal, look at the bottom of a kettle as it boils, you will see lots of bubbles forming.
Click to expand...

Thats reasuring just hope its not false hope
If the pump has failed how far would it drive before i start overheating?
Ive drove it 10miles to work and then back again and its not even close to overheating but the waterpipes are getting hard
 
ive got a similar problem on my dse, drove for 30 miles at aprox 80mph temp gauge sat perfectly in the middle, came off the A road into a side road at 25mph it overheated in seconds and blew the top of the rad apart, i put it down to a blocked rad as the previous owner had filled it full of rad weld to try and fix a leaky heater matrix, fitted a second hand rad and drove it into work, stop start traffic all the way, drove perfectly, went to get onto the A road, gave it a bit of stick to pull out into the traffic and it blows another rad almost instantly, assumed it was the head knackered, but i think i might take a look at the pump first, now ive read this thread, good job ive got no hair, cause i'd be pulling it out by now!
 
luckymark said:
ive got a similar problem on my dse, drove for 30 miles at aprox 80mph temp gauge sat perfectly in the middle, came off the A road into a side road at 25mph it overheated in seconds and blew the top of the rad apart, i put it down to a blocked rad as the previous owner had filled it full of rad weld to try and fix a leaky heater matrix, fitted a second hand rad and drove it into work, stop start traffic all the way, drove perfectly, went to get onto the A road, gave it a bit of stick to pull out into the traffic and it blows another rad almost instantly, assumed it was the head knackered, but i think i might take a look at the pump first, now ive read this thread, good job ive got no hair, cause i'd be pulling it out by now!
Click to expand...

No joke the wife said last night that im going gray round the sides
You think its related that ive just bought this heap of ****e?
 
luckymark said:
ive got a similar problem on my dse, drove for 30 miles at aprox 80mph temp gauge sat perfectly in the middle, came off the A road into a side road at 25mph it overheated in seconds and blew the top of the rad apart, i put it down to a blocked rad as the previous owner had filled it full of rad weld to try and fix a leaky heater matrix, fitted a second hand rad and drove it into work, stop start traffic all the way, drove perfectly, went to get onto the A road, gave it a bit of stick to pull out into the traffic and it blows another rad almost instantly, assumed it was the head knackered, but i think i might take a look at the pump first, now ive read this thread, good job ive got no hair, cause i'd be pulling it out by now!
Click to expand...
That's typical of a duff viscous fan, you can prove it with my aircon condensor fans mod if the car has aircon. The car is kept cool at speed by the ram air flow, when you slow down if the fan is fecked there is no airflow so instant overheat.
 
Datatek said:
That's typical of a duff viscous fan, you can prove it with my aircon condensor fans mod if the car has aircon. The car is kept cool at speed by the ram air flow, when you slow down if the fan is fecked there is no airflow so instant overheat.
Click to expand...

Data ive sent you a pm for the a/c fan mod if poss
Not sure wether its a fuked fan or the rads not getting hot enough eather from not pumping or fuked rad but the fan was easy to turn by hand imediatly after overheating
couldent feel the rad itself cos theres too much crap in the way and my hands are massive
 
gfromleeds said:
Data ive sent you a pm for the a/c fan mod if poss
Not sure wether its a fuked fan or the rads not getting hot enough eather from not pumping or fuked rad but the fan was easy to turn by hand imediatly after overheating
couldent feel the rad itself cos theres too much crap in the way and my hands are massive
Click to expand...
Fan should be almost solid when hot, but if the RAD is not getting hot then the Fan will not lock up.
 
Couldnt tell if the rad was hot cos i was on moterway and couldnt start dismantleing the car to get to the radiator bars ive since had it for a run and it gets warm but wouldnt say its hot ! But it hasent tryed to overheat since eather
Was thinking the pump must be ok as the heater works well
 
gfromleeds said:
Can somone tell me which wire to connect to were to power the a/c fans to run?
Only wanting to temp run them to rule out the vfan
Click to expand...
Bridge across the two AC Fan relays (R13 and R14)....

Easy method to get the R/H fan running is to remove R14 and bridge across the switch contacts as the R/H fan is fed directly from battery whereas the L/H fan uses both R13 and R14 to switch on and off in a weird dual running method or something...basicaly looking at the way it is wired, when R13 cuts in, this then provides power to the R14 coil to pull in the second fan via the Dual Pressure switch....

Easy method to get one fan working is to bridge R14....

To get both running bridge both relays I guess from looking at it...gets confusing because of the AC Control Relay R18....Take a look at RAVE and make a judgement call!

EDIT.......

Or even just unplug the fan motors and power direct to battery..>!!
 
Been looking at them this aft an cant figure out why but when turned off both wires for the left fan are carrying a possative feed and wires for right are neg
Seems arkward just for the sake of it! ive unpluged them and gona take it for a long run tomorrow with them connected direct to the battery
Seem to draw a hell of a currant cos blew a 15amp fuse instantly run ok with a 30amp though
So give me 24hours and ill give you an answer
 
Last edited:
Saint.V8 said:
Bridge across the two AC Fan relays (R13 and R14)....

Easy method to get the R/H fan running is to remove R14 and bridge across the switch contacts as the R/H fan is fed directly from battery whereas the L/H fan uses both R13 and R14 to switch on and off in a weird dual running method or something...basicaly looking at the way it is wired, when R13 cuts in, this then provides power to the R14 coil to pull in the second fan via the Dual Pressure switch....

Easy method to get one fan working is to bridge R14....

To get both running bridge both relays I guess from looking at it...gets confusing because of the AC Control Relay R18....Take a look at RAVE and make a judgement call!

EDIT.......

Or even just unplug the fan motors and power direct to battery..>!!
Click to expand...

They are wired to run in series, low speed, or individually high speed, depending on which relays and switches are tripped. Bit complex.
 
Datatek said:
You only need to earth one wire on the aircon tri state switch to run the fans as per my mod.
Click to expand...

gfromleeds said:
Which wire and were is the switch?
Click to expand...
That sounds much simpler :D

Locate the X315 Pressure Switch which is behind the L/H side of the front bumber near the bottom (As attched photo).

Earth the BLACK/BLUE wire from connector number C162, this will earth the two condensor fan relays and pull them in as per the attached Schematic. Easiest way is to bridge across the two contacts in C162 as the Black wire is an Earth path!
 

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