Heating Problem

Not sure how much of a problem this is yet. 2.25 Petrol. not on the road yet in the process of rebuild.
Dont think there is any water coming out of top hose into engine, or bottom for that matter, first thing I done was pulled the thermostat out and done the check in boiling water and it opes and closes OK.
Symptoms are Rad getting very hot top and bottom , exhaust and manifold to hot to touch.
tonight I let it run for a good 15 minuets, looked and seemed fine but could not feel ant water running through hoses. Did not loose any water at all but when I turned engine off there was steam coming from rad cap, lossened it slowly and carefully but no water gushing out.
Thinking it could be water pump is there a way to check pump ?.

Have you run it with the cap off to see if there is any movement of water in the rad? The exhaust will be too hot to touch anyway after a few minutes. What does the temp gauge do?

Col

Will be no flow till the stat opens....you need an infra red thermometer tells you how hot the thermostat housing is....needs to be getting on to 80c to open.

Loosen the fan belt and rattle the fan front to back. If there is any movement in the bearing it’s time to replace but it will still work. It will eventually leak at the shaft but that’s the only fault it should ever have.
You should be able to see coolant moving through the cap when running and the bottom hose should be cooler than the top hose when air is being passed through the rad.

Sounds like an airlock to me. Disconnect both heater hoses to the cabin heater battery and fill the system, make sure the cabin heater is turned to hot and hopefully the air will be released through these hoses. Refit both hoses after obviously.

Had this in my mustang, was an airlock in the heater matrix, disconnect hoses into the heater box on the engine bay side attach a hose to the in pipe and flush through then connect hose to out pipe and flush. Dont turn hose in full as will damage matrix, gentle flow is enough them fill rad up and run with cap off to expel air, heater on full an turned up, jack up front helps. So does a rad funnel. Level will rise in funnel and bubble a bit as air releases then it will settle down, top up if required. Once air is all oot heater will be fine. Sorted

Fatrover said:

Had this in my mustang, was an airlock in the heater matrix, disconnect hoses into the heater box on the engine bay side attach a hose to the in pipe and flush through then connect hose to out pipe and flush. Dont turn hose in full as will damage matrix, gentle flow is enough them fill rad up and run with cap off to expel air, heater on full an turned up, jack up front helps. So does a rad funnel. Level will rise in funnel and bubble a bit as air releases then it will settle down, top up if required. Once air is all oot heater will be fine. Sorted

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Will have a go when I can get up again. mine has a tap on hoses that run in to matrix. only problem I will have is I dont have running water on tap, jus 5 gallon drums.

Have you tried loosening the bleed nut under thre exhaust manifold.

https://www.series123.com/AUShomepages/index130/index.html

A few tips above

Have you tried putting the sensor in a cup of water while it’s connected to gauge keep measuring temp and looking at gauge while adding hot water bit by bit ( this will be similar to digital reading on thermostat housing )

do the plugs look like over heated, lean or running rich

steve2286w said:

https://www.series123.com/AUShomepages/index130/index.html

A few tips above

Have you tried putting the sensor in a cup of water while it’s connected to gauge keep measuring temp and looking at gauge while adding hot water bit by bit ( this will be similar to digital reading on thermostat housing )

do the plugs look like over heated, lean or running rich

Click to expand...

went to get correct sensor 560794 today but turns out the part number 52770 I have are both the same part.
Going to get one of these Draper Infrared Thermometer | Toolstation whats the best way to check with it.
my trouble is I dont know what to look for , will have to find a guide on how to test with thermometer or how to get rid of airlock ect.

I would get the cheapie version off eBay , I haven’t got one but just point spot at top of rad or thermo housing on engine and it should tell you temp.
If there was an airlock in heater matrix as yours is lower than the series 3, I would pull both pipes off from engine compartment keep them both high up and top up one of them till antifreeze comes out of other , or try blowing in one end and collects what comes out of other to see if any bubbles in , with one pipe connected and stat out turning engine over should also pump it out of disconnected pipe

steve2286w said:

I would get the cheapie version off eBay , I haven’t got one but just point spot at top of rad or thermo housing on engine and it should tell you temp.
If there was an airlock in heater matrix as yours is lower than the series 3, I would pull both pipes off from engine compartment keep them both high up and top up one of them till antifreeze comes out of other , or try blowing in one end and collects what comes out of other to see if any bubbles in , with one pipe connected and stat out turning engine over should also pump it out of disconnected pipe

Click to expand...

Thanks will try and have a go tomorrow.
I just got the one from toolstation, Think the thermostat opes around 82 or am I wrong, anyway what readings should I be expecting after idling for a while, should it get to a certain heat then stay there ?
whats to hot ?

If the thermostat is fully open about 85C then you should see a drop in temp as it flows through rad
Should se a difference maybe 10C from top to bottom on rad , but it’s just sitting with the fan running rather than driving at 30mph
There is also a 72C thermostat that you could try to bring temps down
Have you tried the voltage stabilisers you have (have read if these not earthed properly can read high) or the spare temp gauge you have
Too hot would be 100C although even that should not over pressurise the rad cap leading to steam escaping