Freelander 1 Diesel mist spraying all over the Fuel Rail & Injectors

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Remove the hose in the photo, and spay easy start into the air duct, i have on a R40 used the EGR to spray it into and started first time but to be on the safe side use the air duct.
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Only the air duct hose needs to be removed.
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So what route does the air take to get to the intake manifold ? at present I do not have the air filter cover in place as its so difficult to fit and remove, would I be best putting that back on and then remove the Air duct pipe
 
brillo21 said:
So what route does the air take to get to the intake manifold ? at present I do not have the air filter cover in place as its so difficult to fit and remove, would I be best putting that back on and then remove the Air duct pipe
Click to expand...

Hi Marc.
Most certainly make sure everything is back in place, air filter cover, air filter, manifold, EGR, and its associated air ducting, once you have that all in place, remove the air hose to ducting and spray engine start into it, so its heading for the air filter and try and start the car.

The air filter cover should take no longer than 5 minutes to fit or remove, sometimes you can struggle if the end of the cover as been damaged, link below for you as to what i am talking about.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - Air Filter Cover (Re-Fitting) Diesel (the75andztclub.co.uk)





You can also do this mod to the air filter cover, it give to access to the MAF so you do not have to remove the cover.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - MAF Mod Diesel. (the75andztclub.co.uk)
 
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Thanks to both Arctic & Jayridium for the Advice on both subjects, I will try to upload to Youtube
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the video's I have already done and if successful I will add a link to a subsequent post, I have done the modifications to the Air cleaner cover suggested and hopefully that will aid the re-fitting of that, as it took an age to re-fit it last time, once that is fitted and I can employ some help to squirt the Easy Start I will endeavour to Video it not starting.

It looks as if the MAF sensor insert has been replaced as the security screws that originally held it in place are missing and there was only one pozidrive self tapper holding it in Photo's of offending article enclosed
 
Yes, the videos worked, having seen it crank and not fire my gut is the injectors aren't seated properly giving you bad compression. Get a fault code reader on it, see if there are any fault codes stored for the crank and or camshaft sensors, if there aren't any codes, it's got to be a compression issue, ala injector seals. You can ghetto the injectors to fire out of the bore by putting the pipes back hard pipes to front on the rail, and having the injectors pointing out over the radiator. If you do that, and put lucozade bottles over them, as the engine cranks if it's trying to "fire" the injectors they quickly fill up with "smoke" which is actually atomized diesel vapour. if you sit in the car, close the door, crank the engine, turn the ignition off, go round to the front and look at your lucozade bottles over the radiator and check for the smoke, you'll know for 100% certain that the injectors fired or didn't. If they didn't fire after a few cranksthe ECU isn't trying suggesting it's not seeing a timing signal from those sensors, and it will never start. If it fills the lucozade bottles with "smoke" you know for certain that you have an injector sealing problem.
 
Thanks for the reply, I will have to try and borrow code reader, will a generic one be sufficient ? and as a matter of interest where is the OBDII socket on these cars.
If this proves to be a injector sealing problem, what would be the cause

I had new copper washers the first time I put the injectors back in along with the rubber O rings and I annealed them after I removed them when the car would not start the first time ready for refitting subsequent to taking all the injectors apart again and checking the needles moved freely and that all internals were correctly positioned.

I also cleaned the seats before refitting the injectors both times
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Is there any way of testing that the injectors are seated correctly other that the symptom of the car not starting ? as I say not being used to working on Diesel injectors I am at a loss as to what part of the re assembly procedure I have done incorrectly, the torque settings for the nuts that hold the injectors in place is not high, do I need to tighten them down further next time, This vehicle is driving me to distraction.
 
One cylinder is definitely down on compression, which is giving that increase in cranking speed every 4th compression cycle, but shouldn't stop it running.

This symptom is very indicative of leaking pressure regulator O rings.
You can remove the injectors and reorient the fuel pipes, the idea being that you will be able to see the fuel spray out of each injector as it injects in real time.
This can be useful for identification of a specific injector or rail pressure issue.
 
When you say "leaking pressure regulator O rings" are we talking about the HP fuel pump part of which can be removed with two bolts to replace the several O rings ? I presume my next step is to remove all the injectors again and reverse the fuel hard lines and connect the injectors in the engine bay in four plastic bottles and see if there is any diesel in the plastic bottles after 20 - 30 seconds of cranking. presumably I will have to anneal the copper washers again as they have been tightened into the cylinder head and will presumably "Work Hardened"
 
It sounded like it wanted to start at the end of the video 105-107 mins, i still think a sniff will get it going, seeing that you have cleaned all injectors tips, getting good 5 spray patterns from them, cleaned the seat ports, made sure all the connectors to fuel rail are ok and clean, MAP is clean, get the air filter cover back on, unplug the MAY try it then and if still no go, spray some engine start into the air duct as suggested in the above posts.

You no longer have the misting correct? and the fuel pump is working in the wheel arch as it should correct, how far are you from Herne Bay, as i have a mate there whom as a T4 diagnostic, whom maybe could hook it up or even get you going.
 
I can not tell if it is misting as that only happened when the engine was running and the revs were increased, there was no spray when the car was on tick over.
The pump in the rear wheel arch is defiantly working as with the feed to the HP pump diverted into a milk carton pumped fine with no air in the flow that I could see. video of the "Misting issue" follows

https://youtube.com/shorts/KsypyS-ZMMI

I am about 16 miles from Herne Bay
 
brillo21 said:
I can not tell if it is misting as that only happened when the engine was running and the revs were increased, there was no spray when the car was on tick over.
The pump in the rear wheel arch is defiantly working as with the feed to the HP pump diverted into a milk carton pumped fine with no air in the flow that I could see. video of the "Misting issue" follows

https://youtube.com/shorts/KsypyS-ZMMI

I am about 16 miles from Herne Bay
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HI Marc.
I have dropped Mick a message on the R40 club hopefully he will get back to me asap, and he will be willing to pop over to you.
 
Hi Steve

Thank you very much for asking your friend Mick if he could help, I don't know what the R40 club is but I presume its Landrover related, did you view the misting video ? after all that has transpired since it seems like a minor problem by comparison to the subsequent issues I have had with the car but I am consoling myself that it could not be left as it was.
 
brillo21 said:
Hi Steve

Thank you very much for asking your friend Mick if he could help, I don't know what the R40 club is but I presume its Landrover related, did you view the misting video ? after all that has transpired since it seems like a minor problem by comparison to the subsequent issues I have had with the car but I am consoling myself that it could not be left as it was.
Click to expand...

Hi Marc.
R40 is the Rover 75 club which as the same diesel engine as the TD4 Mick as got back to me i have sent you his phone number by personal message and he is or will be waiting for your call tomorrow morning cheers Steve.
 
I have spoken to Mick and he suggested that I remove the Cam sensor put it in the freezer for 1/2 hour and then refit it as sometimes this electro-magnetic sensor can become weak over time.

Unfortunately this had no effect and the car still turns over but does not fire, as a last resort it was suggested that I very carefully connected the injectors outside the engine covered the tips with clear bottles and tape them in place so there was no danger of me ingesting the spraying diesel, I could then check if the injectors were spraying and that my cleaning had resulted in the five spray pattern we all hope for.

This resulted in me realising that something else is wrong as no diesel at all was spraying into the bottles while cranking

So now we are effectively back to square one, However the injectors are really really clean.
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So you've no fuel being delivered.
This could be the cam sensor, crank sensor, or HP regulator on the pump, or low pressure fuel issues.
Are you getting a good low pressure fuel supply?
The ECM inhibits the injectors if the low pressure fuel supply is below a minimum threshold of 250kPa.
 
I don't know how I can check the actual pressure from the LP pump, I had replaced the fuel filter about 2 weeks before my first post, but I did disconnect the supply to the HP pump and ran the diesel into a empty 2 litre plastic milk bottle and there was no air in the fuel and it seemed to be flowing pretty quickly as I switched on the Ignition and listened for the pump and after what seemed like a few moments when I got to the engine bay it was 1/4 to 1/3 full so checked for air in the flow saw none so went back and switched off.

I appreciate that this is only volume and that it could still be at the the incorrect pressure, however it was running perfectly well (all be it the misting of diesel from the base of the injector) before I removed the injectors.

I have tried the cam sensor in the freezer trick to no avail, which I suppose may or may not rule that out, I have not even looked at the crank sensor or the regulator on the HP pump come to that.

I keep wondering if it is anything that I have done somehow when removing and cleaning the injectors, but I have had the injectors apart twice now and all the internal components are in there and in the correct order, I was also very careful to ensure that the tiny disc was sitting flat and not at a angle when re assembling.

I don't know if there is any way of checking the cam sensor or the crank sensor with a multi meter, if there is I would be grateful of the being told the correct procedure
 
brillo21 said:
I don't know how I can check the actual pressure from the LP pump, I had replaced the fuel filter about 2 weeks before my first post, but I did disconnect the supply to the HP pump and ran the diesel into a empty 2 litre plastic milk bottle and there was no air in the fuel and it seemed to be flowing pretty quickly as I switched on the Ignition and listened for the pump and after what seemed like a few moments when I got to the engine bay it was 1/4 to 1/3 full so checked for air in the flow saw none so went back and switched off.

I appreciate that this is only volume and that it could still be at the the incorrect pressure, however it was running perfectly well (all be it the misting of diesel from the base of the injector) before I removed the injectors.

I have tried the cam sensor in the freezer trick to no avail, which I suppose may or may not rule that out, I have not even looked at the crank sensor or the regulator on the HP pump come to that.

I keep wondering if it is anything that I have done somehow when removing and cleaning the injectors, but I have had the injectors apart twice now and all the internal components are in there and in the correct order, I was also very careful to ensure that the tiny disc was sitting flat and not at a angle when re assembling.

I don't know if there is any way of checking the cam sensor or the crank sensor with a multi meter, if there is I would be grateful of the being told the correct procedure
Click to expand...

no expert here so im sure someone else will correct me - i think the crank sensor is where you should look next as the ecu will not fire the injectors if it does not have an rpm signal - does the rev counter needle move when cranking (this isnt a foolproof check not all cars do )
 
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