Freelander 1 Diesel mist spraying all over the Fuel Rail & Injectors

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I am afraid my ignorance on the operation of the diesel supply system has probably extended this nightmare but we life and learn.

Thankfully the FL1 TD4 diesel is pretty easy. Modern diesels now use O2 sensors in the exhaust, more engine sensors, electric throttle controls, and coded injectors, so things have got much more complicated now.:eek: This makes finding issues in these newer diesel engines much more challenging. :(

You'll get there.;)
 
Hi Marc.
I have now sent you a PM with regards to the fuel pump, sorry for delay i had to sort out the drop links, and rear spring on my R40 tourer yesterday, which is ongoing today.
 
Thanks to #Arctic2 for the help, a short update on the nightmare that is this Freelander 1 TD4, a Brand new LP fuel pump has now been fitted and the fuel pressure is reading 2.6 Bar at the chrome rail supplying the HP Pump, also the HP Pump pressure regulator has been treated to a rebuild kit as I am told that can also be an issue.
Unfortunately it still will not start, so the next step will be the injectors, I can only assume that I have somehow made a mess of cleaning the old set of injectors and that is now the problem, a new set is out of the question as that would be more than the cost of another car, so a good used set will hopefully be the answer.

Once these are sourced and fitted I will post the result, I just hope at that stage it will be good news

Thanks to all for their input in trying to get my Freelander 1 mobile again
 
Brand new LP fuel pump has now been fitted and the fuel pressure is reading 2.6 Bar at the chrome rail supplying the HP Pump

If your pressure gauge is accurate, then it might not start at 2.6 Bar. The ECM kills power to the injectors when the low pressure rail drops to below 250 kPa, which is about what you're seeing.
The low pressure pump should supply lots of pressure, preferably 350kPa or more at full engine power.
 
If your pressure gauge is accurate, then it might not start at 2.6 Bar. The ECM kills power to the injectors when the low pressure rail drops to below 250 kPa, which is about what you're seeing.
The low pressure pump should supply lots of pressure, preferably 350kPa or more at full engine power.
I obviously have no way of knowing how accurate the Fuel pressure gauge is, It is brand new out of the box and the old pump read 2.2 Bar with the gauge fitted in line at exactly the same place.

In that case I am at a loss, I am very reluctant to purchase another brand new pump due to the ever increasing cost of this repair, the whole reason for buying the gauge was to establish if the LP pump was or was not at fault, that being said I have no way of checking the accuracy of the item purchased to check the Fuel pressure.
 
I obviously have no way of knowing how accurate the Fuel pressure gauge is, It is brand new out of the box and the old pump read 2.2 Bar with the gauge fitted in line at exactly the same place.

In that case I am at a loss, I am very reluctant to purchase another brand new pump due to the ever increasing cost of this repair, the whole reason for buying the gauge was to establish if the LP pump was or was not at fault, that being said I have no way of checking the accuracy of the item purchased to check the Fuel pressure.
Can you check the diagnostics to see what pressure the ECU thinks the fuel is at both from the lift pump and at the rail?

That is what the ECU will be going by in determining whether to fire the injectors.

Sorry if you have done this - its a long thread!

Looking back this started with the engine running fine but with a fuel leak. Have you had the engine running OK since fixing the leak or has it not run since fixing that?
 
a Brand new LP fuel pump has now been fitted and the fuel pressure is reading 2.6

What make of fuel pump is it? There are quality issues with many cheap pumps off ebay and the like. Pierburg are the OE pump maker, and pretty much the only pump that is any good.
 
Can you check the diagnostics to see what pressure the ECU thinks the fuel is at both from the lift pump and at the rail?

That is what the ECU will be going by in determining whether to fire the injectors.

Sorry if you have done this - its a long thread!

Looking back this started with the engine running fine but with a fuel leak. Have you had the engine running OK since fixing the leak or has it not run since fixing that?
You are not wrong, its a very long thread and seems even longer from this end, I have no way of checking diagnostics as I only have Cheap OBD11 reader and that shows no fault , in answer to your second question the car has not run since the fuel leak apart from a split second when it was turned over on the starter while simultaneously spraying Eaststart into the air intake, as soon as the Easystart was removed from the equation the engine stopped, it literally fired for a split second.
 
What make of fuel pump is it? There are quality issues with many cheap pumps off ebay and the like. Pierburg are the OE pump maker, and pretty much the only pump that is any good.
Pump is a TI Automotive WFX000181 - 7.50051.70. Easystart was tried after the new Pump but result was a split second fire but nothing further
 
Pump is a TI Automotive WFX000181 - 7.50051.70. Easystart was tried after the new Pump but result was a split second fire but nothing further
TI are a reasonable quality make. I'm wondering if you have an injector that is spilling at low pressure, which is bleeding down the low pressure rail, preventing it from climbing to a pressure where the EDC will allow the engine to run.
It's probably worth pulling the spill line off each injector in turn, to see if any are spilling fuel, which they shouldn't be.
 
TI are a reasonable quality make. I'm wondering if you have an injector that is spilling at low pressure, which is bleeding down the low pressure rail, preventing it from climbing to a pressure where the EDC will allow the engine to run.
It's probably worth pulling the spill line off each injector in turn, to see if any are spilling fuel, which they shouldn't be.
Thanks for the reply, do you mean the fuel return line that goes in the top of each injector secured with a push clip and feeds back down to that chrome rail on the front of the engine ?
 
Thanks for the reply, do you mean the fuel return line that goes in the top of each injector secured with a push clip and feeds back down to that chrome rail on the front of the engine ?
Yes, that's correct. They are spill connections, which are there to send any fuel which gets past the injector valve back to the tank.
In normal circumstances there should be minimal spilled fuel, but if an injector isn't sealing correctly, then lots of fuel can get out. If there's to much spill, the low pressure rail pressure can be effected.
 
Yes, that's correct. They are spill connections, which are there to send any fuel which gets past the injector valve back to the tank.
In normal circumstances there should be minimal spilled fuel, but if an injector isn't sealing correctly, then lots of fuel can get out. If there's to much spill, the low pressure rail pressure can be effected.
Ok so If I turn the ignition on and while the LP Pump is running remove the hose from each injector in turn is that correct ? when I do this am I hoping to see fuel coming out of the hose while the LP pump is operating,

If I can not do all four while the LP pump is running, I am assuming I turn the Ignition off and then turn on again until all four have had their hose removed and checked for diesel output.
 
If you unclip each injector T piece, and put the ignition on. A leaking injector will eject fuel from the top where the T piece was removed from.
Be aware that any injector on the spill pipes could be leaking fuel, so fuel could leak out the disconnected T piece itself, which would point to another injector.
 
If you unclip each injector T piece, and put the ignition on. A leaking injector will eject fuel from the top where the T piece was removed from.
Be aware that any injector on the spill pipes could be leaking fuel, so fuel could leak out the disconnected T piece itself, which would point to another injector.
Ok I get that, I will try that as soon as I get back tomorrow and report back
 
Hi all
I did as #Nodge68 suggested and got a great deal of diesel coming back from the top of two of the injectors, so I ordered a set of used injectors from a recommended source which I fitted today and the car started on the second try, I can only assume that somehow I have caused a problem with these two injectors when I disassembled and cleaned them.

Its difficult to know if the LP Pump replacement, the replacement of the cam sensor, the replacement of the fuel rail sensor and the fitting of the HP Pump regulator kit was necessary to get the car running ? probably not as the issue ended up being two injectors being faulty / destroyed by me which is correct I still can not be sure.

So from my point of view the lesson learned from this whole fiasco is don't take your injectors apart unless you really know what you are doing, I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread all of the suggestions were much appreciated.
 
So from my point of view the lesson learned from this whole fiasco is don't take your injectors apart unless you really know what you are doing

That's good advice.
It's probably best to not take them apart, and simply have them refurbished if there's an issue.

Glad you're running again. ;)
 
HI Marc.
Good news, you are up and running and that David came through ;) i have sent you a reply to your personal message, let me know what you think.
 
Back
Top