P
puffernutter
Guest
This is a follow up to an earlier thread discussing the merits of diesel
heaters 24v, 12v etc.
I purchased a 24v Eberspacher D1LC heater from a chap on eBay. It sat
in its box until a couple of days ago when I started to look at fixing
it into my 1990 110 CSW (2.5 TD)
As ever with these jobs, planning is the key. I spent a fair amount of
time looking at the options for mounting as well as where the hot air
vents could be located.
I also made up a mounting plate for the heater. This plate could be
drilled accurately in my workshop, which meant that I could then just
hack a chunk out of the car! (I work on the measure with string, mark
with chalk, cut with axe engineering system!)
The chosen location was in the drivers seat box. A hole was hacked in
the bottom with enough overlap to fit the mounting plate.
A larger hole was made in line with the heater, at the back end of the
seat box. This was for the fresh air intake.
Another larger hole was made at the opposite end to take the hot air
output pipe.
Finally two more holes were made, one for the 24v + & - cables and one
to the 7 day timer/thermostat cable. (This was slightly awkward as it
has a rectangular plug on the end. It came out the bottom of the box
then entered the cabin just under the handbrake and was then hidden
under carpet on its way to the dashboard.
The cubby box and centre panel was removed and holes drilled in the
footwells between the transmission tunnel and drivers/passengers seat
boxes. i.e. towards the centre line of the car. This was chosen to
allow the heat to be directed along the edge of the footwell and not
directly into the middle (a mandatory requirement of my main passenger
- the wife!)
A "Y" pipe was fitted with extra hot air piping (obtained through eBay
at very much reduced prices compared to "Eberspacher" spares, and in
my opinion just as good!)
The piping was held in place using 2.5" jubilee clips and the whole lot
supported using a couple of tie wraps either side of the transmission
tunnel.
As I run veggie, I had ordered a separate diesel tank. This fits behind
a new bulkhead (I put in for the dogs to create a safe "dog zone" in the
back area of the car) and the centre seat of the middle
row. Holes were drilled in the floor for the diesel (out), breather
(out) and diesel return (temporarily capped - not needed for the
heater). The diesel pump was mounted on the inside of the chassis
member just behind the rear suspension arm mount.
Fuel tubing / electrics to/from the pump was run and held using tie
wraps along various chassis members.
The 7 day timer/thermostat was fitted just alongside the clock/cigarette
lighter/rear wash-wipe switches. A word of warning here, this is LCD
and I had the angle wrong! I needed to step the bottom out a distance
to make sure that it was visible from a normal driving position. (Not
leaning sideways and downwards, which was the only way of reading it the
first time that I fixed it!)
Electrics - now this is where it was potentially very complicated.
Showing financial restraint (OK tighter than a duck's a...) I had bought
a 24v version. There were many suggestions of how to run with two
batteries, in the end, (unusually for me) I went for the simple option.
I nicked my sons "Imp" battery and connected it in series with the
existing battery. To make life easy, between the "+" of the existing
battery and the "-" of the "Imp" battery there is a 15A blade fuse
(could be anything, but a minimum of 15A) Similarly between the "+" of
the Imp battery and the Heater there is another 15A blade fuse (must be
15A). This means that once a week when I charge the battery, I just
remove both fuses and the battery is in "splendid isolation"!
The last job was to fit the combustion exhaust (supplied) this just
points down the car (it should be pointed into the "wind") and in fact
points into the centre area. The inlet air to the combustion must be
the same length. This wasn't supplied but I was told that "heater" pipe
would do, so a 19mm piece was cut to size and fitted.
Diesel was added to the tank, both fuses inserted and the "On" button
pressed. Well, the fan worked at least, but no sign of combustion. I
was slightly concerned that I had heard (grapevine) that if it should
fail to start three times, it shuts done and has to be reset by a dealer.
120 seconds, still no heat :-( I went under the vehicle to check that
diesel was coming through (it was a clear line). Yup, there was diesel.
On sliding out under the side I touched the combustion exhaust pipe.
The burns on my arm indicated that combustion was taking place! And
indeed there was hot air coming out the vents.
I have just had an 80 mile round trip today with the heater running the
whole time. Toasty warm cabin (for a change) and a very happy spouse!
Well impressed.
Have a Happy (and warm!) New Year
Cheers
Peter
1959 A40 Farina
1964 Rover P4 110
1973 Hillman Imp
1990 110 CSW (Reggie the Veggie)
heaters 24v, 12v etc.
I purchased a 24v Eberspacher D1LC heater from a chap on eBay. It sat
in its box until a couple of days ago when I started to look at fixing
it into my 1990 110 CSW (2.5 TD)
As ever with these jobs, planning is the key. I spent a fair amount of
time looking at the options for mounting as well as where the hot air
vents could be located.
I also made up a mounting plate for the heater. This plate could be
drilled accurately in my workshop, which meant that I could then just
hack a chunk out of the car! (I work on the measure with string, mark
with chalk, cut with axe engineering system!)
The chosen location was in the drivers seat box. A hole was hacked in
the bottom with enough overlap to fit the mounting plate.
A larger hole was made in line with the heater, at the back end of the
seat box. This was for the fresh air intake.
Another larger hole was made at the opposite end to take the hot air
output pipe.
Finally two more holes were made, one for the 24v + & - cables and one
to the 7 day timer/thermostat cable. (This was slightly awkward as it
has a rectangular plug on the end. It came out the bottom of the box
then entered the cabin just under the handbrake and was then hidden
under carpet on its way to the dashboard.
The cubby box and centre panel was removed and holes drilled in the
footwells between the transmission tunnel and drivers/passengers seat
boxes. i.e. towards the centre line of the car. This was chosen to
allow the heat to be directed along the edge of the footwell and not
directly into the middle (a mandatory requirement of my main passenger
- the wife!)
A "Y" pipe was fitted with extra hot air piping (obtained through eBay
at very much reduced prices compared to "Eberspacher" spares, and in
my opinion just as good!)
The piping was held in place using 2.5" jubilee clips and the whole lot
supported using a couple of tie wraps either side of the transmission
tunnel.
As I run veggie, I had ordered a separate diesel tank. This fits behind
a new bulkhead (I put in for the dogs to create a safe "dog zone" in the
back area of the car) and the centre seat of the middle
row. Holes were drilled in the floor for the diesel (out), breather
(out) and diesel return (temporarily capped - not needed for the
heater). The diesel pump was mounted on the inside of the chassis
member just behind the rear suspension arm mount.
Fuel tubing / electrics to/from the pump was run and held using tie
wraps along various chassis members.
The 7 day timer/thermostat was fitted just alongside the clock/cigarette
lighter/rear wash-wipe switches. A word of warning here, this is LCD
and I had the angle wrong! I needed to step the bottom out a distance
to make sure that it was visible from a normal driving position. (Not
leaning sideways and downwards, which was the only way of reading it the
first time that I fixed it!)
Electrics - now this is where it was potentially very complicated.
Showing financial restraint (OK tighter than a duck's a...) I had bought
a 24v version. There were many suggestions of how to run with two
batteries, in the end, (unusually for me) I went for the simple option.
I nicked my sons "Imp" battery and connected it in series with the
existing battery. To make life easy, between the "+" of the existing
battery and the "-" of the "Imp" battery there is a 15A blade fuse
(could be anything, but a minimum of 15A) Similarly between the "+" of
the Imp battery and the Heater there is another 15A blade fuse (must be
15A). This means that once a week when I charge the battery, I just
remove both fuses and the battery is in "splendid isolation"!
The last job was to fit the combustion exhaust (supplied) this just
points down the car (it should be pointed into the "wind") and in fact
points into the centre area. The inlet air to the combustion must be
the same length. This wasn't supplied but I was told that "heater" pipe
would do, so a 19mm piece was cut to size and fitted.
Diesel was added to the tank, both fuses inserted and the "On" button
pressed. Well, the fan worked at least, but no sign of combustion. I
was slightly concerned that I had heard (grapevine) that if it should
fail to start three times, it shuts done and has to be reset by a dealer.
120 seconds, still no heat :-( I went under the vehicle to check that
diesel was coming through (it was a clear line). Yup, there was diesel.
On sliding out under the side I touched the combustion exhaust pipe.
The burns on my arm indicated that combustion was taking place! And
indeed there was hot air coming out the vents.
I have just had an 80 mile round trip today with the heater running the
whole time. Toasty warm cabin (for a change) and a very happy spouse!
Well impressed.
Have a Happy (and warm!) New Year
Cheers
Peter
1959 A40 Farina
1964 Rover P4 110
1973 Hillman Imp
1990 110 CSW (Reggie the Veggie)
