Cable routing from Battery box to rear.

Dear All,
I am preparing my defender 90 for a trip to Norway and I have a lot of wires that I need to plug into a fuse panel which I will place at the rear of the 90 (Diesel Heater, light bar, rear lights....)
Just a question, what's the best cable routing from the battery box to the rear? if you have photos it is even easier.
Thanks

If I was going to attemp that I would route the cables, inside some unsplit convoluted ducting along to the gearbox x-member and then along the top of the chassis to the rear and up into the tub with the wires for the rear lights etc.
I'd use a non-invasive fixing, probably cable ties (7.8mm), with the conduit sitting in cable tie bases.

Where is your heater? Where would you like your fuse panel? Do you want to control all the listed from the back or the front?
Yep its complicated .

I would run out the back of the battery box into the cab, then run cables inside to fuse box position.

Its not an easy question to answer without a plan and more details.

J

you asked the rights questions, I will try to explain:

I bought an auxbeam switch panel which will sit behind the rear bulkhead (Defender 90) facing backward. the control of the unit will be placed on the dash. this is where all the fuses are (in the auxbeam black box). so I am trying to find a route between the battery box and the rear of the bulkhead but without going "outside" as I want to keep my wires dry and short (I will power the fuse panel with 15mm2 cables).

In that case hole up though the strip panel behind the seat, up the tub bulkhead and hole through to the back.

tottot said:

In that case hole up though the strip panel behind the seat, up the tub bulkhead and hole through to the back.

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This one ^^ given your placement. However as an alternative there is plenty of space for an auxiliary fuse panel in the battery box if you fit the larger all ali replacement battery box yrm offer. I have the additional fuse panel, relay control box (lights, fans, etc), and two large solenoid isolator (main vehicle and winch) all tucked into my battery box.

I would stick to your original plan as fitting in the battery box would render it to water ingress when wading and when running through melting snow unless your battery box is water tight (no battery anchor rods passing through the floor or unused bolt holes and gaps )

mystery said:

unless your battery box is water tight (no battery anchor rods passing through the floor or unused bolt holes and gaps )

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This^^ and not as difficult to achieve as it sounds. Again if you get the larger yrm battery box you also get the yrm battery mount (suitable for twins) and the tie downs then do not pass through the floor. use a good seam sealant when you build it, and use correctly sized good quality rubber grommets for cable entry.

you can see one of the threaded holes for the battery tie down in the bottom centre of my picture.