P38A Diesel Head gasket again

Datatek said:

Oil damped like a shock absorber to stop it bouncing.

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Ok that i can understand. But can't see that it would bounce much with the high load on it.

Oil came out, and I have no idea how it would have got in there? Don’t think it would have got through the rubbers from the rollover. Was thin and black so I put some engine oil in there just incase, after a short run I wiped it off as I’d overfilled it.

There may be no need but it runs fine and won’t harm. when I priced up new ones some stated must be kept upright - that’s what I think I did wrong - leave it on its side. Back when I snapped the tensioner fulcrum. What a learning curve that was!

If. the weather holds tomorrow, I will try a few things to improve the cooling. might have to make a test rig for the fan. something is not quite right and thats no good for me Might have to buy another to keep me going. Does anyone know what the Gems radiator to diesel mod is?

Heard about it but don’t know anyone that actually has it.
Supposed to be improvement.

What about Datatek’s cooling mod, you have EGR with AC switch?

The only concern I had with the V8 rad in the diesel was the Aircon compressor possibly being in the route of the bottom outlet. I think @Datatek has a bit more info on this?

tarphenry said:

If. the weather holds tomorrow, I will try a few things to improve the cooling. might have to make a test rig for the fan. something is not quite right and thats no good for me Might have to buy another to keep me going. Does anyone know what the Gems radiator to diesel mod is?

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I'll provide details this evening of the RAD mod and the aircon fans mod, I have just acquired a GEMS RAD and want to do some measurements. The mod has been done by a guy in New Zealand.

RangeRoller dt said:

Heard about it but don’t know anyone that actually has it.
Supposed to be improvement.

What about Datatek’s cooling mod, you have EGR with AC switch?

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What has EGR got to do with it?

wammers said:

Ok that i can understand. But can't see that it would bounce much with the high load on it.

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They do bounce with no damping.

thanks Datatek

Datatek said:

What has EGR got to do with it?

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Pre EGR hasn’t got the 3rd head sensor

RangeRoller dt said:

Pre EGR hasn’t got the 3rd head sensor

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Third head sensor came in at MY 1999. EGR came in at MY 1998.

RangeRoller dt said:

Pre EGR hasn’t got the 3rd head sensor

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I don't have a third sensor and it's a my99.

Mark Piercy said:

it's a my99.

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The head isn’t
No A/C??


You have more than a few surprises on yours, rads shifted about is my favourite

Yip AC and an egr and only two sensors.
it was registered October 99 but could be an early model bought late

It's all original from its history from 2004, as far as I can gather. The rad swap is due to the bigger intercooler.

And dinosaurs....

Mark Piercy said:

I don't have a third sensor and it's a my99.

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If it is MY1999 it should have a Black sensor below inlet 5 or so. If it's a earlier head that has been fitted, it should have a plug in the sensor position. You should have a loose wire hanging around on under manifold harness.

Mark Piercy said:

Yip AC and an egr and only two sensors.
it was registered October 99 but could be an early model bought late

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My guess is your P38 has been in for stage2 work, so to speak, with a professional at some point in its life. Not uncommon see mismatched heads they work fine

BACK TO THE PLOT- After further testing, I can prove that it is in fact the FAN !!! it passes the newspaper test with flying colours but when it reaches a certain point it becomes easier to turn thus stopping it cooling the water. when you stop the car and allow it to cool a little the fan starts to work again. I ran the car without the fan attached and the the rad was hot top to bottom so the pump and stat are functioning correctly. I like it when a plan comes together

tarphenry said:

BACK TO THE PLOT- After further testing, I can prove that it is in fact the FAN !!! it passes the newspaper test with flying colours but when it reaches a certain point it becomes easier to turn thus stopping it cooling the water. when you stop the car and allow it to cool a little the fan starts to work again. I ran the car without the fan attached and the the rad was hot top to bottom so the pump and stat are functioning correctly. I like it when a plan comes together

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Whilst driving the engine is cooled by ram air the fan is only partially engaged and does not cool it overly. When slowing after a prolonged speed ram air reduces and the fan should then engage to pull air through the rad. If it is not doing this that is your problem.