P38A Diesel Head gasket again

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cannot stop it with a paper and it roars if you rev it when warm at a standstill .not had chance to remove rad yet, its persisting down
 
yes I can , its only 18months old. I feel the water is notgetting round the system therefore not cooling the engine properly
 
Exchanged cylinder head for a tested crack free head, fitted head as per rave and the car has done about 3000 miles with no problems. new metal impeller water pump new o/e thermostat new rad and fan about 18months ago engine runs smooth no faults showing on Nanocom Cleaned intercooler and inlet manifold.Fault occurred after a 5 or 6 mile drive temp went up to r/h white line , then stays there then drops back then rises again. I fee it must be circulatory problem
 
tarphenry said:
Exchanged cylinder head for a tested crack free head, fitted head as per rave and the car has done about 3000 miles with no problems. new metal impeller water pump new o/e thermostat new rad and fan about 18months ago engine runs smooth no faults showing on Nanocom Cleaned intercooler and inlet manifold.Fault occurred after a 5 or 6 mile drive temp went up to r/h white line , then stays there then drops back then rises again. I fee it must be circulatory problem
Click to expand...

As said earlier look at the rad. If it's hot across the top but cool at the bottom it has no baffle.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Check rad baffle with marble test (it could be only partially there enough to stop a marble), drain plug, usual inspection and flush if refitting.
I’d check stat while you’re there is only 3bolts.
Click to expand...
There are rads out there that do not have the baffle. Without one they are useless.
 
Can somebody please explain why.

How, Hot water in the top, Cold water out the top was ever a good idea?

just sounds stupid to me:confused:

generally the rule for hot water/cool water is hot is top cool is bottom it’s not rocket science :D

j
 
marjon said:
Can somebody please explain why.

How, Hot water in the top, Cold water out the top was ever a good idea?

just sounds stupid to me:confused:

generally the rule for hot water/cool water is hot is top cool is bottom it’s not rocket science :D

j
Click to expand...
Ye they cocked this design up a bit. Hot water comes in top right, is forced down around (by a small plate :rolleyes:) then back up left into engine.

The stat is after the rad too? I’d have put it before so rad kicks in after it’s warmed
 
I’m only 9 years older than my P38 :D Makes more sense?? beneficial to the cause

Oil cooling rad is at the bottom of the manual’s main rad too has its pros and cons. An oil cooler on a standard ‘95 is pretty good tech I think, integrated I’m not so sure.

First thing I did was rebuild my cooling system when I didn’t have a clue. TarpHenry and Wammers showed me how. I can trick my engine into over cooling too if need be since doing the metal pump/drivetrain :)
 
marjon said:
Can somebody please explain why.

How, Hot water in the top, Cold water out the top was ever a good idea?

just sounds stupid to me:confused:

generally the rule for hot water/cool water is hot is top cool is bottom it’s not rocket science :D

j
Click to expand...
It was done because the clearance to the aircon pump pulley is tight for a bottom entry, however the GEMS V8 RAD can be persuaded to fit, a mod that I will be trying soon. It has been done by a guy in NZ and it makes a big difference to cooling in high ambient temperatures.
 
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