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Anyone in East Kent with a Hawkeye, Lynx or T4?
Needed for a sick Freelander TD4.
Needed for a sick Freelander TD4.
Freelander 1 Diagnostics
- Thread starter The Mad Hat Man
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Guy has a Td4 with many faults. Taken to 3 garages and has had different diagnoses, but none from a proper LR scanner.
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..
Looks like there are two engine temperature recordings - one is quite believable at 30C and the other that appears to be spurious at -40C. There is only one engine coolant temperature sensor however, so is the tool being used LR specific?
What are the running issues? The injectors on the M47R are a pain and frequently leak back (don't ask me how I know). This generally leads to difficult starting, specially when the engine is warm. May be a smidge down on power too.
What are the running issues? The injectors on the M47R are a pain and frequently leak back (don't ask me how I know). This generally leads to difficult starting, specially when the engine is warm. May be a smidge down on power too.
There's no mention of what is actually wrong with it, other than the places he's taken it want to rip him off.
As there are 2 temperature readings, 1 saying 30 and the other saying -40, I'd be inclined to ignore the incorrect reading, as the diagnostic unit not reading the sensor correctly, or not at all.
Get him to post here directly, so he can get some more reliable information.
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I have asked him to do so
kernowsvenski
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My cheapo obd reader always says -40 so I would think he could ignore that at least
Paulmargate
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Hi guys, sorry, couldn't find the thread.
I haven't had the car plugged in to a landrover specific diagnosis machine. The last guy who looked at it said he wasn't an auto electrician, and that was pretty.much the end of it. He suggested the 2 separate -40 readings were unlikely to be the sensors, more likley to be wiring loom or ECU. I think it's running very rich, possibly because it thinks it cold when it isn't?
I'm guessing I don't want to pay out to have the injectors checked, until I solve this -40 reading. I've checked the fuzes.
Intercooler pipe also had a lot of oil in it,
In neutral it seems to run fine, ticks over fine, but in gear there is a stutter and loss of power, almost like it's not running on all cylinders between about 1200rpm to a little over 2000rpm.
It starts ok,there is a bit of white smoke at start up, but soon clears, there is a small puff of black smoke if I floor it, but wouldn't say excessive.
Does anyone know someone in East Kent who could plug it into the right Freelander tool, so I can get better information on what the problem is.
Thanks.
I haven't had the car plugged in to a landrover specific diagnosis machine. The last guy who looked at it said he wasn't an auto electrician, and that was pretty.much the end of it. He suggested the 2 separate -40 readings were unlikely to be the sensors, more likley to be wiring loom or ECU. I think it's running very rich, possibly because it thinks it cold when it isn't?
I'm guessing I don't want to pay out to have the injectors checked, until I solve this -40 reading. I've checked the fuzes.
Intercooler pipe also had a lot of oil in it,
In neutral it seems to run fine, ticks over fine, but in gear there is a stutter and loss of power, almost like it's not running on all cylinders between about 1200rpm to a little over 2000rpm.
It starts ok,there is a bit of white smoke at start up, but soon clears, there is a small puff of black smoke if I floor it, but wouldn't say excessive.
Does anyone know someone in East Kent who could plug it into the right Freelander tool, so I can get better information on what the problem is.
Thanks.
If you have no luck locally and can head over to north London, I’ll connect up and interrogate all the ECUs in the car for you. My hunch is that the -40C is spurious because of the use of a generic fault code reader.
More likely there’s a problem with the intercooler hoses that can rot and collapse or the intercooler O-rings (I’m guessing similarities with the Rover 75/MG ZT here)
More likely there’s a problem with the intercooler hoses that can rot and collapse or the intercooler O-rings (I’m guessing similarities with the Rover 75/MG ZT here)
I'd ignore the -40°C reading altogether, as it's simply an erroneous reading, likely generated by the the code reader software. Basically if the software doesn't see a valid value for a sensor, it defaults to display -40°C.
The TD4 has only 1 coolant temperature sensor (showing +30°C), so any other erroneous readings can be discounted.
Next is the running. A diesel can't run rich at slow speeds, it doesn't work like that. If you added more fuel (making a petrol engine rich) then a diesel will simply speed up, as it's fueled by mixture.
So any running issues at slow speeds are going to be fuel quality (atomization) or air path (boost pipe) issues.
Here's what I'd do.
First I'd check all 4 boost pipes, as any one can split or collapse, the two upper pipes being the most common to fail.
Replace any boost hoses that are soft, holed, split or collapsing inside.
Next I'd put a few doses Comma Diesel Magic, over the next few tanks of fuel, and see if that improves the running.
Next check the EGR valve is working correctly, as that will upset engine running.
Cleaning it and the inlet manifold of the accumulation of goop that builds up over time. Clean the MAP sensor at the same time.
Once all these things are done, report back.
The TD4 has only 1 coolant temperature sensor (showing +30°C), so any other erroneous readings can be discounted.
Next is the running. A diesel can't run rich at slow speeds, it doesn't work like that. If you added more fuel (making a petrol engine rich) then a diesel will simply speed up, as it's fueled by mixture.
So any running issues at slow speeds are going to be fuel quality (atomization) or air path (boost pipe) issues.
Here's what I'd do.
First I'd check all 4 boost pipes, as any one can split or collapse, the two upper pipes being the most common to fail.
Replace any boost hoses that are soft, holed, split or collapsing inside.
Next I'd put a few doses Comma Diesel Magic, over the next few tanks of fuel, and see if that improves the running.
Next check the EGR valve is working correctly, as that will upset engine running.
Cleaning it and the inlet manifold of the accumulation of goop that builds up over time. Clean the MAP sensor at the same time.
Once all these things are done, report back.
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^^^^^^
All of which are, comparatively, cheap
All of which are, comparatively, cheap
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