Diagnostic codes

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Foxy76

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Norfolk
Hi guys looking for advice plugged in a diagnostic reader into my 2001 disco 2, it came up with "open circuit fault in RH pretensioner circuit" is this the sensor on the hub.
I changed the CV boot an since then the traction control randomly kicks in an now ABS light on.
If so I'll just put a new hub on.
Also it says RH as I'm sat in drivers side I take it it dose mean drivers side an not right hand side as in looking at front of car.
Thanks marc.
 

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Hi guys looking for advice plugged in a diagnostic reader into my 2001 disco 2, it came up with "open circuit fault in RH pretensioner circuit" is this the sensor on the hub.
I changed the CV boot an since then the traction control randomly kicks in an now ABS light on.
If so I'll just put a new hub on.
Also it says RH as I'm sat in drivers side I take it it dose mean drivers side an not right hand side as in looking at front of car.
Thanks marc.
Hi do you have the srs warning light on in the top right corner ? Pretensioner refers to the seat belt where it clips in I've got the same issue that I'm trying to sort as for the abs light could be the sensor on the back of the hub just take it back out and refit it operates by an air gap yes RH is when your on the drivers side
 
I don't recognise the diagnostic tool in the photo and am assuming it is a generic OBDII reader. If this is the case the DTC readout is meaningless.
Sadly, despite having a port that fits the readers, your 2001 D2 is not OBDII compliant and requires a LR-specific diagnostic tool.
Am I right in thinking the only fault light you have is an occasional ABS light? I would have expected it to be accompanied by TC and HDC. As Lynx45 says above, if you actually had a pretensioner fault you would have an SRS light that probably would not extinguish.
 
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By the way, if you get a random SRS light on, then check the connections under the seats. Mine comes on and off at random, now but before, I opened the connection cleaned it, put it back together, and then it worked fine. For a while. In the end I used a chocblock on one of the wires which had come adrift completely from the connector, and the problem went away for a long time. According to my MOT tester, who sees this a lot, many people solve it by soldering up the connections. But obviously then removing the seat would be more difficult.
+1 to ^ re the reader. I've got a Foxwell which so far has done the job and it is half the price of the other ones you normally get advised to use, and it handles a lot more models than just the one.
 
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