Defender Td5 Head Gasket problems

Can anyone tell me where and how I can source the right head gasket set for my Td5 ? I had the gasket done and head skimmed a couple of years ago but it seems to have gone again as I'm getting the same pressurised coolant system as I had before.
Tia

just buy a genuine gasket, the reason it failed again is more important, quality of work and parts on previous change, over heated heads can often fail again if been too over heated previous,cooling system isnt 100%

jamesmartin said:

just buy a genuine gasket, the reason it failed again is more important, quality of work and parts on previous change, over heated heads can often fail again if been too over heated previous,cooling system isnt 100%

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Indeed. I'm searching online, to find the best price, but how and where do I determine the correct part number/s for the kit I need ?

No1Skelly said:

Indeed. I'm searching online, to find the best price, but how and where do I determine the correct part number/s for the kit I need ?

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head gasket which is the vital part is bought separate not in a kit as its choice is dependent on height of pistons and how much skimmed off the head, what was the number of holes on the one fitted as obviously is was thick enough as it was running ok ,youd want a couple of steel dowels if not already fitted

the holes indicating thickness can be seen in top left of pic,count whats on current gasket

So, will I need to strip it before ordering a new HG to find out how many holes there are ? I had it done at a local engineering works so I'm not sure if they used steel dowels or not and didn't get a great deal of information about the standard of parts they used.

remove acoustic cover and have a look front drivers side gasket tab should protrude from head ,buy a quality head gasket ,steel dowels if needed and a head bolt kit since its gone twice and you will still need a gasket kit or single other gaskets etc depending on how much you strip off to get gasket changed,head will want checking for cracks as well as straightness, i tend to see whats needed before buying the parts

Thanks chap

given your past problems it might pay you to make a check on the piston protrusion as shown here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defendertd5/engine/cylinder_head_gasket_selection/

raywin said:

given your past problems it might pay you to make a check on the piston protrusion as shown here:
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defendertd5/engine/cylinder_head_gasket_selection/

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What is the purpose of this check, and why might it effect the problems I have had ?

No1Skelly said:

What is the purpose of this check, and why might it effect the problems I have had ?

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The test is to get the correct head gasket thickness to maximize compression while avoiding any chance of piston valve or head contact, or even over compression, that's why they have different options of gasket. Its one of these things that is best to have right and may or may not be part of your previous problems but when you do something like this its good to know all of it has been done right, given the cost of the gasket, the new stretch bolts, even the sealant between the head and the cam shaft retainer is expensive.
It may just prove you have the correct gasket anyway which then eliminates something from the list.

raywin said:

The test is to get the correct head gasket thickness to maximize compression while avoiding any chance of piston valve or head contact, or even over compression, that's why they have different options of gasket. Its one of these things that is best to have right and may or may not be part of your previous problems but when you do something like this its good to know all of it has been done right, given the cost of the gasket, the new stretch bolts, even the sealant between the head and the cam shaft retainer is expensive.
It may just prove you have the correct gasket anyway which then eliminates something from the list.

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Fair enough Is there a way of doing this without expensive special tools ?

No1Skelly said:

What is the purpose of this check, and why might it effect the problems I have had ?

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its how head gasket thickness needed is measured ,that is with a standard head ,when you skim a head you reduce the depth valve sits from head face ,if this is reduced it will effect head gasket thickness needed too, so you either measure both and select correct gasket or as most do if its just a gasket change and no skimming is going to be done fit what was fitted prior as it obviously was a suitable thickness as engine was running ok with the gasket prior to leak
valve stand down measurements are listed in the link
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...ul/page_249/&usg=AOvVaw3EIRSDQxxK_IlutN_fvTrm
if valve depth measurements are within the given ,ie inlet depth needs to be not less than .555mm if it is the difference needs adding to the piston height to correct the lack of depth

You could find a straight edged metal object like a good quality steel rule, then put that across the top of the piston at TDC and check between the edge and the top of the block with feeler gauges. To be honest this would be need to be done very carefully and if you felt it was highlighting a possible error I would try and get someone to help who has a DTI.
Actually they are not so expensive these days if you have the use for one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trade-Qua...406501&hash=item5b3968177b:g:S~8AAOSweuxWQ92g

Ok, so the current HG is a three hole, which I'm assuming is the thickest from what I've read. Final question for now. Are there any tricks or tips or any tools that aren't in a standard toobox/socket set ( other that the hex socket ) that I will need. I've done OHC engines before, and a number of the old pushrod 2 1/4l series heads, but I hate to be unprepared and have to order tools or parts once I've started a job.

tie wrap cam chain to chain wheel,
drain coolant before undoing any head bolt
injectors and cam plate can all stay in place lift head as a complete lump an engine crane will help
you need a timing pin for crank pin crank before removing head ,and a suitable size drill bit will do for cam
i usually leave both manifolds on and just tie turbo back and undo fuel cooler on inlet etc
you need an e14 torx socket for head bolts

Do you have time to elucidate upon "you need a timing pin for crank pin crank before removing head ,and a suitable size drill bit will do for cam" pls ? Are these two seperate things ? and if so what does the first bit mean ? I think I know what you mean but it's better to be certain ime. Sorry to be pain

theres a threaded hole front rhs of gearbox bell housing you need a special timing pin preferably to lock the crank

theres a pin for cam too but it can be just as well done using a suitably sized drill bit

jamesmartin said:

theres a threaded hole front rhs of gearbox bell housing you need a special timing pin preferably to lock the crank

theres a pin for cam too but it can be just as well done using a suitably sized drill bit

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Sweet. Only £15 for the two on Paddocks. Thanks again I'll be back I'm sure

Don't get the head skimmed again. Landrover say you can't skim a TD5 head at all but you can get away with it once if done properly.
AFAIK there is not enough "meat" on the head to skim it twice.
Always replace any nylon locating dowels with steel ones to stop the head walking on the block over time.
It's no more of a big job than on any other engine.

Shifty1962 said:

Don't get the head skimmed again. Landrover say you can't skim a TD5 head at all but you can get away with it once if done properly.
AFAIK there is not enough "meat" on the head to skim it twice.
Always replace any nylon locating dowels with steel ones to stop the head walking on the block over time.
It's no more of a big job than on any other engine.

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I have my suspicions that the engineering firm I had it done at last time used plastic dowels as mentioned in the workshop manual. It's the only reason I can think of for it going again after only 2 years.