Deciding Questions

I've just been to test drive a 1986 C reg 90 2.5 REG todaym and there are a couple of things that I'd like to know before I potentially make a purchase. The chassis is in good shape, there are no knocking noises and the engine runs smooth but:

1) It's akward to find the gears
The specialist has said that this is simply down to the gear stick being loose. Should I find it easier to find gears when the gear stick is tightened up?

2) The clutch demands a firm push, is this usual?

3) It has done in the region of 150,000 miles (I think), is it likely to conk out on me soon?

It will have a full MOT and service before I buy it at that price.

Thanks in advance for any help
-Pos

gear stick is sposed to be like that - at least that is wot i bin told maybe a stronger reverse spring mite help?

mine has done 110000 still pull well i know some do ove 200000 and still be running just have regular services

Ahh, but yers is running thru a 4 speed series box Daft. They ain't sprung or nowt.

Who is the 'specialist'?, geezer attached to the dealer or independant? After driving a road car the box is going to feel 'slushy' & it does take some getting used to (I actually think a good series gearbox has more 'positive' gear selection, just a much bigger throw between gears, better reassuring click tho')

Firm, agricultural push on the clutch is pretty usual.

When you say it'll have a service before you buy, what's covered in the service & would you have parted with any substantial amount of folding before they do it?

Lastly, when you say the chassis is sound, have you got unnerneath it & given it a really good nkocking with a small hammer & a good poke aboot with a big screwdriver? I would if you can. If it consistently clanks or dings rather than clunks when tapped, it may be a good 'un.

Yeah wot Marcus sez. What's the bulkhead like? have a look under the door seals and round the door and window hinges. Will the gearbox, transfer box and diff oil be changed and the timing belt changed in the service? 150,000 miles isn't many if it's been looked after, if it hasn't then it could be shagged.

Hi, thanks for the replies,

The specialist is infact the whole company - Jake Wright in Burley - Wharfedale http://www.jakewright.com/

- The price is £2750 (worked on hard)
- I am not too sure about what will be done in the service, but all the little niggles will be sorted.
- New shockers and parts for MOT (included in price)
- Seems to have been well maintained
- Have had a good look at chassis whilst its been up on ramps, very clean and tidy, no rust and no alternating sounds when tapped. They have however, just welded a small plate onto a very small section of it at the back.
- Has a very strong reverse spring!
- Bulkhead has no signs of corrosion

Here are a bunch of pictures (like the colour or not?) - none taken of the chassis or bulkhead directly unfortunately, but you can see the bulkhead in the picture showing the engine.

(446 KB ZIP) http://www.skuf.co.uk/defender/photos.zip

Thanks for the help
-Pos

I think the price is a bit steep, a grand more will get you up into the 200 Tdi to 300Tdi range

Just looked at their web site all the vehicles are a bit pricey

I know it is a bit steep, but it's in good nick and it's pretty much as I'd like it, whereas buying a cheaper one may require a bit of cash spending on it doing it up. I'm also trying to avoid Turbo ... for now!

It's a 20 odd year old Land Rover so it WILL need cash spending on it. Pricing is difficult because every one is different, in spec and condition. Don't rely on the dealer's statements regarding condition, get someone you trust to have a look. Dealers charge the biggest price they think they can get away with and remember the motor trade is 99% dodgy geezers. Also a dealer can't possibly tell you about a vehicle's reliability and performance as he hasn't been driving it day in day out for the last couple of years has he?
My preference would be to buy from a private owner who's had the vehicle for a couple of years and can tell you it's history. Preferably a Land Rover nut who is enthusiastic about the vehicle and not afraid to show you round it properly. You'll get a hell of a lot more for your money than you would from a dealer.

Thanks for the replies,

If I need to spend any money then I am hoping that it will only be for little parts that generally last a while which I can buy cheap and fit myself (I'm living in a bloody dreamworld aren't I?)

One more question:

Steering/

This 90 doesn't have PAS so it is a little heavier to drive. I did get the hang of it in the test drive however which lasted about 10 minutes. Will I get used to it? It doesn't seem much heavier than my Dads car which also has no power steering.

Thanks again for all the help
-Pos

I agree with hughesy if you can find some extra cash
and go for a 200tdi or even a bit more and get the
best a 300tdi from a private deal don't just buy it
because its there keep looking for the good deal
there are some out there mine is on 131000 runs
sweet as a nut but I do have all the invoices from
new ...............

I bought mine out of the mag in the Classifieds

mine is non-pas. you will get used to it, i know what you mean though! running 265/85's isnt recommended without PAS though. its an arse in the car parks!

Griffdowg said:

mine is non-pas. you will get used to it, i know what you mean though! running 265/85's isnt recommended without PAS though. its an arse in the car parks!

Click to expand...

What do you mean by 265/85?

-Pos

tires

Oh rite cheers! I'm learning slowly
It has got reasonably chunk tyres, but I'm prepared to work out whilst I'm driving

-Pos

I would take someone along that knows what to look for in a land rover, I missed a land rover on flea bay the other week a 1992 200Tdi with 81k on the clock that went for £1650 with lots of extras on it. Now that was a bargin, and there are more out there you just have to look. Don't be suckered in to buy the first one you see.

Griffdowg said:

tires

Click to expand...

Or tyres if your British.

yer sorry, i cant remember which way around it is... kids these days.

besides, im a hick so i can spel how i wnt

It's not easy to advize without seeing it, the main thing is go with your gut feeling but be prepared for things to go tits up. If its a good runner with a years MOT you won't go far wrong, the main problems are the chassis, bulkhead and engine. If you paid the same money for a "modern" vehicle what would you get and how long would it last. What your buying could last till you're too old and feeble to climb into it, if you spend a bit of time and money on it now and look after it. The other point about not buying the first one you see is Ok but at what point do you decide that the last one was better!