Decat pipe??

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I,m sure there was someone doing them for £17.00 + post Cant remember who it was but Biglad will be along soon to to tell you :D
 
I googled rjs 4x4 and comes up with £54 for a disco 1 i think thats what the op is after or wanted to know if one from a defender would fit if so then yes teh defender one is £17 im quite interested to know if the defender one would fit too as this is on me list of things to do ..............
 
Yes Sorcy ,The Defender pipe will fit like a glove. I'm off to take the little mutt walkies . See ya :)
 
It is slightly more fiddly to use the Defender one, but not a big deal.

It's also about one third the price of the Disco alternative.

Works well on mine, anyway.
 
It is slightly more fiddly to use the Defender one, but not a big deal.

It's also about one third the price of the Disco alternative.

Works well on mine, anyway.


Just as long at it fits ill be ok, gonna take out the rest of the exhaust and run a flexi pipe out the rear quarter panel so i dont have it scraping on the floor !!!!!! Already bent it today at wodlands :D
 
Just as long at it fits ill be ok, gonna take out the rest of the exhaust and run a flexi pipe out the rear quarter panel so i dont have it scraping on the floor !!!!!! Already bent it today at wodlands :D


Just a thought, that Defender pipe on E Bay is for a 90. It looks shorter than the piccie of the Disco one.

Is there a different pipe for the 110 ? :confused:
 
Reet then... being the criple that I am I have to do work in stages now cos me back is buggered. I have got the down pipe to turbo nuts off with no snapping studs and the downpipe to mid box nuts off too and all is flaping round well now. I have got the rubber hanger off the down pipe which isnt on the defender down pipe and now its dark out side ive come in to have a think about removing the origional pipe from the vehicle and a bit of a rest. Any sugestions from people who have done the pipe swap as to the best way to remove it? Im thinking of jacking the chassis and resting it on axel stands leaving the axel hanging to give a bit more clearance. Is that how you did it or is there a better or easyier way? Presumably with the axel droped you would pull the down pipe towards the rear of the landy and then twist it about the place till you find a way out?
 
Reet then... being the criple that I am I have to do work in stages now cos me back is buggered. I have got the down pipe to turbo nuts off with no snapping studs and the downpipe to mid box nuts off too and all is flaping round well now. I have got the rubber hanger off the down pipe which isnt on the defender down pipe and now its dark out side ive come in to have a think about removing the origional pipe from the vehicle and a bit of a rest. Any sugestions from people who have done the pipe swap as to the best way to remove it? Im thinking of jacking the chassis and resting it on axel stands leaving the axel hanging to give a bit more clearance. Is that how you did it or is there a better or easyier way? Presumably with the axel droped you would pull the down pipe towards the rear of the landy and then twist it about the place till you find a way out?


Hiya DI, that is exactly how I did it, plus I dropped the front anti-roll where it bolts onto the chassis, to give a bit more working room.

I found that on mine ('98Tdi300 auto) I needed to unbolt a plate which supports the oil cooling pipes so that I could move them a bit, when manouvering the new solid downpipe into position.

It doesn't have a hanger (unlike the old catted one) probably due to it's low weight.

Be ready for an enormous power leap once it's all back together :rolleyes: ;)

Good luck

Dave
 
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