Other D3 & D4 engine oils

Follow up of the earlier video posted




Prior video

I used 5w40 in my D3, it definitely ran smother on it.

The more I listen to him, the more I think hes bit of a dick!

I tried the 5/40 and it defo took longer for the initial pressure to climb
Some will say its the same when cold, but I can tell you the cold start tinkle went on for twice as long on the 5/40 as it did on the 5/30, worried me enough to change back to 5/30 asap

Anyone who uses those stupid faces is not worth following

I can't understand why people are thinking they are smarter than those who built the engine and recommended the proper oil for it ... putting thicker oil in any egine will make it run "smoother" as it absorbs the sound better but that doesnt mean it's OK on a long run...

some sarcasm:
is your engine noisy? fill it with 20W50 mineral oil and it will make less noise so you can load a video on youtube and be a smart ar&e to tell others your epochal revelation

MJI said:

Anyone who uses those stupid faces is not worth following

Click to expand...

Except for This Old Tony, who has uses them very occasionally.

lynall said:

I tried the 5/40 and it defo took longer for the initial pressure to climb
Some will say its the same when cold, but I can tell you the cold start tinkle went on for twice as long on the 5/40 as it did on the 5/30, worried me enough to change back to 5/30 asap

Click to expand...

I fixed that issue, as I replaced the timing chains and tensioners. The cold start rattle disappeared after the chains and tensioners were changed.
I used 5w40 as I wanted to give the bottom end a bit more support, especially as it's not particularly strong on these engines, and 5w40 definitely made the engine smoother.

sierrafery said:

I can't understand why people are thinking they are smarter than those who built the engine and recommended the proper oil for it ... putting thicker oil in any egine will make it run "smoother" as it absorbs the sound better but that doesnt mean it's OK on a long run.

Click to expand...

Not smarter, but less bothered about fuel economy.
Engine oils are chosen to meet a variety of criteria, some of which are irrelevant after the engine has travelled a good distance.
The oils used need to protect the bearing surfaces, that's the primary purpose of them. However the manufacturers also want to get the best MPG out of an engine, and thicker oils cause more drag on the moving components, which reduces efficiency.
So they choose oils which are just thick enough to do the job on a new engine, where clearances are tight, which at the same time keeps looses through oil drag to a minimum.

Once the bearing clearances have opened by wear, a thicker oil will still help prevent metal to metal contact, which is especially true on a hard working and hot engine.

Most manufacturers give an oil viscosity range, based on environmental temperatures, the thicker oils being used in hotter climates.
The oil used must meet the correct specifications, which is likely more important than the actual viscosity chosen, providing the oil is still thick enough to support the rotating components.