i recently bought a an electric fan to replace the faulty seized original, fabricated a few mounting brackets as it wouldn’t fit the original ones, word of warning don’t touch the condenser bolts they snap off! When started the fan runs constantly, ignition on doesn’t run .The temp gauge works perfectly so I don’t suspect the temperature sensor..Can any one help me out on this ..also I replaced the rear wiper and still doesn’t work checked fuses changed around relays ? Seems no live at the switch ?
D2 condenser fan on !
- Thread starter Gingermgf
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Pawl
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The car overheated in the past, switching on the fan. You need a fault code reader to delete the overheat record in the engine ecu
I thought that was the case only my fault code reader doesn’t work on my discovery and I can’t afford the hawkeye at the mo think I’ll disconnect it and plug back when I use the air con .. thanks for your reply
Pawl
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You might somebody local who's got a Nanocom or similar who'll turn it off for a beer - lol
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I have an electric cooling fan for my rad on my D1 300tdi, wired from the batt direct, through fan to switch. Only switch it on when needed and that is insanely rare, I couldn't believe how I never needed it in the UK, and only a couple of times in France, even when towing a FO trailer! so you could do the same, through a relay obviously.
Yeah I could do thanks ..
sierrafery
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Set the aircon to "ECON" or better remove the compressor clutch relay untill you fix that fan otherwise you can end up with a seized compressor ... happened to me, IMO the dual pressure switch's cut out limit is too high cos if you touch the return pipe to the compressor with a non working fan you'll burn your fingers... also dont think that those cheap fans from ebay are up to the job, they are useless... better buy a used genuine one in working order
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Yep, mine was a cooling fan on 300tdi, not an aircon fan on a td5, and yes, I used a good quality secondhand proper cooling fan bought from a breakers not a toy one from ebay.
As usual, sound advice re the compressor clutch relay.
Maybe OP is prepared to run with the fan on all the time until he can fix the problem properly?
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Not advocating anyone drive around with no cooling fan, just lucky I guess with my 300tdi. Lots of people do replace the engine driven one with an electric switched via a stat, At the end of the day I don't think there is much in it either way. Once a car is rolling at about 30 mph a fan is pretty much not needed anyway so I have heard. But obviously the last thing anyone needs is a bust head gasket or a cracked head, so let's hope OP ain't got either!
Ive had pretty much all the diesel diso models and can say the following based on experience,
200 is pretty safe with no viscous fan but when it gets hot it gets hot very quick.
300 less safe in fact I had two 300 manual and an auto with a/c and both at one point or another got way to hot, viscous back on sorted, overall I found the 300 to be more fragile than the 200.
Td5 I just wouldnt dare!
TDV6 the same have you seen the parts cost?
If removing the viscous fan you cant rely on the std fit temperature gauge as its not accurate enough you need a capilliary unit.
You are spot on when rolling its not needed, but when you are jogging along at 70 on a red hot summers day then get stuck in sotp/start traffic you had better be damned sure your fan works as it will cook.
Same when off roading at slow speed but medium to highish revs it will get hot even when its sub zero outside much to my surprise as the engine locked up!
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I fitted the electric fan in a bid to (as always) reduce fuel consumption, increase warm up time, etc. It was quite a faff, so once it was on I left it there and drove around with the viscous in the boot! I don't honestly think it made much difference, so to anyone whose viscous is working properly, i'd say, leave well alone. But I have read of some whose viscous has stopped working, and it is not easy to drive around with all the electric fan stuff in the boot!
As for stats, I have heard of real problems with trying to insert them into tubes and then seal them, or put them in between the fins on a rad. I even heard that the best place to fit one is into the outlet pipe junction rather than the inlet, or was it vice versa? (This was a long time ago!) So a T with the capillary sensor fitted would appear to be best if you have room!
So it appears the viscous has a lot going for it!
Anyway, this is largely off topic as the OP is talking AC fan, not coolant. so sorry for that. Interesting all the same.
Wouldn't touch D3 or later, absolutely not!
As for stats, I have heard of real problems with trying to insert them into tubes and then seal them, or put them in between the fins on a rad. I even heard that the best place to fit one is into the outlet pipe junction rather than the inlet, or was it vice versa? (This was a long time ago!) So a T with the capillary sensor fitted would appear to be best if you have room!
So it appears the viscous has a lot going for it!
Anyway, this is largely off topic as the OP is talking AC fan, not coolant. so sorry for that. Interesting all the same.
Wouldn't touch D3 or later, absolutely not!
sierrafery
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What's not working? the aircon or the fan?
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Should ask for your money back!
