cross member replace or repair

Hello Gang.
Just had my mot. Had a proviso on the second row seating cross member assembly. Is this replaceable in situ or does something major need lifting? only failed on a trackrod which as I speak is being replaced

1988 110 CSW 3.5V8

Depends whats rotten on it ? if it can be repaired in position ? if you want to replace it im sure the b posts have to come off which mean the doors as well

Ah! According to the proviso note I got, it look from between the B post and the next bracket. Only a hole the size of a broom handle on each size. Do you feel this is a simple welding job. I'll see if I can take picture for downloading later.

As promised two pictures of the hole in my cross member assembly. Rechecked the original hole size and turned into a lot bigger.:doh: Lucky the mot was just done today
1. I suspect by the condition it has not long left of usefulness.
2. Replacement is this easy or a awkward job to do.
3. Is this stable enough to last 6 months until my piggy bank is full again.

looks weldable so long as its good and solid elsewhere, difficult to tell from a photo but if its about to flake apart it needs changing. You can tell more by the feel and sound of tapping with a hammer

The holes in my 109's are much bigger and I'm patching them be reet with some 3mm plate

Check out MIB components
They recently changed the rear cross member on my 1990 110.
They did a very good job. I got them to do the fitting also.

This one? 053 Defender 110 mid crossmember

cheap enough to buy but not sure how easy they are to replace, have heard you dont need to lift the body to fit them but then have heard others having a right arse on getting them in.

Looks like the idea I was hoping for cheers bud. look like I might give this a try when my piggy bank becomes full again.
1. Would the riveted side panels need to be remove as access below the second row doors?

Just taken these after getting underneath and having a nosey. I tapped around the metal with a small hammer in checking. I notice these look as if they already been welded previously before I had it.:doh: Otherwise the metal seem solid about 4 inches each side. Good for a simple weld jobber?

There easy enough to weld. Some 2mm plate will do the trick and dont forget to treat the inside with wax when your finnished

JNOAKES said:

Looks like the idea I was hoping for cheers bud. look like I might give this a try when my piggy bank becomes full again.
1. Would the riveted side panels need to be remove as access below the second row doors?

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found this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/defender-csw-mid-body-crossmember-157855.html

looks like JM has the answers

If you can get underneath it, get in there with a screwdriver and give it all a good poke. My other half is a welder and he needs decent solid steel to weld to. When I am doing a clean up job for him (i.e i get all the rust and s**t out and grind back to decent metal) he will then grind out a further inch or so before weldinf a plate/patch on.

I express concern that the rust is soo close to the previous weld (if this is the case and not just the original chasis join) get back under it dude and see what else falls off!!!

andy mcd said:

There easy enough to weld. Some 2mm plate will do the trick and dont forget to treat the inside with wax when your finnished

Click to expand...

Does this work like grease in protecting the metal? makes sense