200tdi chassis repair or replace

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laruler

laruler

Member
Posts
45
Location
Milton Keynes
Hi everyone.
I just had my mot on my 1992 200tdi defender, and it failed on rusty rear chassis.
I wanted some advice on what I should do.
It has a bad rust damage just after the rear suspension mount looks like a previous repair. Also right at the rear crossmember.
I wanted to replace the whole rear quarter but only can find a 1998 onwards one on bearmach.
Could I use that on a 1992 chassis or is there somewhere that sells one for my chassis.
Or should I just patch that bit and get a new rear crossmember.
I have included pictures of the area the mot test centre marked up.
 

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I think you will find that rot goes further forward than what you can see, can you get a half chassis?
Cheap boroscope and take a look inside the rest of the chassis.
 
laruler said:
Hi everyone.
I just had my mot on my 1992 200tdi defender, and it failed on rusty rear chassis.
I wanted some advice on what I should do.
It has a bad rust damage just after the rear suspension mount looks like a previous repair. Also right at the rear crossmember.
I wanted to replace the whole rear quarter but only can find a 1998 onwards one on bearmach.
Could I use that on a 1992 chassis or is there somewhere that sells one for my chassis.
Or should I just patch that bit and get a new rear crossmember.
I have included pictures of the area the mot test centre marked up.
Click to expand...

Contact some of the places that sell chassis repair sections. Most of them said their sections won’t work for my 1992 200tdi 110, that’s what pushed me to buy a new galv chassis.
 
New galv chassis is what I would do.

Your chassis looks beyond worse than mine, and i debated to fix mine, and whilst I tried to give it a go, what i found is that the rust went much further than it appeared, all on the inside of the box sections.
By the time I would have fixed it, I would more or less end up with a new rear half of my chassis completely which is un-galvanised with some existing rust in the front half probably waiting to kick me in the ass later on.

Also, what is never mentioned is how to keep the chassis straight and true when you cut all the rot out ? Do you have a jig ? All things considered it not as easy it first appears.

With the above in mind, a new galvanised chassis was a no-brainer, and i think you might find this out for yourself.
 
Hi all thanks for getting back so quickly.
I had another look at the chassis today it worst is right behind the suspension mount where it was welded before. The other side of the mount the chassis looks good only a little surface rust then further forward the no rust.
I think I might get in touch with RCP for there rear quarter.
It's not a daily driver have not done much off roading.
Yes I can weld.
 
laruler said:
Hi all thanks for getting back so quickly.
I had another look at the chassis today it worst is right behind the suspension mount where it was welded before. The other side of the mount the chassis looks good only a little surface rust then further forward the no rust.
I think I might get in touch with RCP for there rear quarter.
It's not a daily driver have not done much off roading.
Yes I can weld.
Click to expand...

I would cut a small square out of the chassis first and see what it’s like inside. You can’t weld good steel to ****e/rust, so you may end up wasting money on a repair piece.
 
mick 1986 said:
I would cut a small square out of the chassis first and see what it’s like inside. You can’t weld good steel to ****e/rust, so you may end up wasting money on a repair piece.
Click to expand...

+1 - and it is always worse where you can't see - I.E. on the inside. Given the state of the rear as shown in the OP's pictures, I'd suggest the majority of the rest of the chassis is toast, or so close to it that a new chassis is the way forward.
 
I'd crawl underneath and give it some attention with a hammer at all the low points on the chassis rails, the dumb irons behind the front bumper, the gearbox crossmember (where it joins the chassis) and the outriggers.

While it may look OK externally, the internals of a chassis rail could be toast and very weak.

It might be take the pain for a re-chassis now vs. a 1/4 chassis followed by even more welding misery at the next MOT - or you could be fortunate and be sorted with just a new 1/4chassis.

Get the hammer out...;)
 
Disco1BFG said:
+1 - and it is always worse where you can't see - I.E. on the inside. Given the state of the rear as shown in the OP's pictures, I'd suggest the majority of the rest of the chassis is toast, or so close to it that a new chassis is the way forward.[/QUOT]

+ 2, much as you want to be told it is all OK and a simple fix in reality it is foobarred. Don't waste your money on a 1/4 chassis. Evaluate the rest of the vehicle and if it's worth saving invest in a full chassis.
Click to expand...
 
Interceptorxj said:
+ 2, much as you want to be told it is all OK and a simple fix in reality it is foobarred. Don't waste your money on a 1/4 chassis. Evaluate the rest of the vehicle and if it's worth saving invest in a full chassis.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I hate stating the rather obvious - but, ..... if those pictures of the chassis are an indication of the results of the OP's maintenance "regime", then I would be quite concerned about the rest of it :eek:
 
Took some pictures of the other side of the suspension mount, the front is OK I had I garage weld that a couple of years ago when I had the engine and gearbox repaired.
 

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