Crankcase filter removal issues

Went to give the car a full service today, oil changed, and driveway suitably rust proofed, air filter is done. Fuel filter is getting done tomorrow.

But the crankcase filter has 4 screws that hold it in place, 3 have came undone with a bit of pressure, the 4th hasnt and has rounded, now i cant get a 5mm allen key to turn it, and a 5.5mm is too big.

So how do i get this dam screw out?
Do they come apart from the plastic housing or are they built in?
Does the BMW mod come with screws?

If they can come out or if the bmw filter comes with screws, then im going to file down the 5.5mm till it fits and remove, or is there a better way?

Oh dear, - The BMW cyclone/vortex oil separator job at £23 comes with new rubber seals but no screws.

The screws should be captive in the cover plate. The BMW cover plate and filter together costs approx £60 so you are looking at a £37 screw there.

Can you fit one of those torx sockets into the hex hole?

I would try to rescue/retain the cover you have. I'm sure you could get a replacement 5.5 allan key for a hell of a lot less than £35.

Did you get the first 3 screws completely out? They should come free and then spin.

Ive no sockets that fit the screw, and ive tried my whole garage of tools.

I bought the 5.5mm allen key from halfrauds with a pack for £5 so if i need to sacrifice it, then so be it.

File it down in small amounts till it fits? and turn then go to landrover and get replacements?

The other 3 turn freely, gave a loud crack when they came free at first though.

Go to BMW and speak nicely to the parts dept. The mechanics and parts guys are usually pretty decent and have got lots in common with us LR types who prefer to DIY. Its the salesman in natty suits that you need to avoid!

A little bird friend of mine (who wears overalls with BMW on them) tells me they replace the whole thing, cover and filter, as a routine item when servicing a 320D or 520D, and of course charge £60+ a pop.

So unless you hit them 1st thing Monday morning, they are likely to have a few covers around for you to get a new screw from. Or might keep one for you.

The screws are more than likely to be £4 each at a Landy stealer.

Try the 5.5mm but lightly hammer it into the socket, it should go in enough to the able to get it out, thats what i`d do.

hello,i would invest a little cash into a Torx socket set for the future if i was you,Allen keys and the Torx fittings are different in their make-up.I tried the Allen keys first when removing the crankcase filter and found them to be quite loose in the Torx screws-so decided to purchase a set as the Freelander has a lot of Torx fittings fitted.The Torx set was quite cheap and was purchased from a tool supplier on the internet,plenty to choose from---Dave

Get a torx socket that is a really tight fit and hammer it into the Allen head - the splines will dig in and usually give you enough grip to loosen it.

angeloc said:

Get a torx socket that is a really tight fit and hammer it into the Allen head - the splines will dig in and usually give you enough grip to loosen it.

Click to expand...

Tried the hammer trick with the 5.5mm but it's just too big to fit in.

Will try and find a torx to hammer into it, then replace it.

Always one dam thing to go wrong with working on that car.

The problem with using a larger Allen key is that it's never going to really fit without distorting or rounding things or worst still splitting the bolt.

A torx will have 5 or 6 cutting splines that will cut into the bolt and do grip well.

I seem to remember but don't rely on it but sent the bolts alloy? If so be careful with the torx.

I would get help and with a mole grips clamped around an extension bar onto the socket get someone to tap it down as you hold it square to the bolt while using the mole to turn the shaft - a sort of improvised impact driver.

Good luck I am sure it will shift with care.

The torx driver I have is broke, the ratchet mechanism is gubbed.

Will try and get a slightly larger one and hammer it in to get it out. Will see if work has anything I can use.

Shall report back with findings

The bolt nearest the bulkhead on mine had been rounded off (by the LR dealer) and now requires a "gentle" tap with a chisel to free it.