Corroless...or a good alternative?

I’m currently in the process of putting my series 2 back on the road, but giving it a spruce up in the process.
Approximately 6 years ago everything was raking off and the chassis was checked, and then painted in red oxide and standard black ?metal paint. Whilst I’m rolling around underneath it I thought I’d give the chassis another coat of paint. I’ve seen that ‘Corroless’ looks to be a good choice if money is no issue, and you’re going for a concourse Landy... mine isn’t I’m afraid.

Just wondering what people use/recommend?

Thanks

I am going to use corolass on mine. My chassis is galv but is old enough now that a coat of paint wont go amiss, and while I am at it will do the axles and suspension links as well. From all of the research I have done it appears to be the best, most hard wearing, and longest lasting out here. Even if you are not going for the concourse look (both of mine are a long way from that), you don't need prevent much expensive welding before the paint has more than paid for itself.

paint any surface rust or bare metal in fertan, wash it off a day later then you can paint over it.

www.fertan.co.uk

I Used POR 15 for the first time this year its costly, 3 part system (Degreaser, Metal Prep and Paint) bumf says it wont crack chip or peel and you can hit it with a hammer , so I gave it ago on the front axle refurb in the summer, First used some electrolysis to help remove the rust this saves on dust and cup brushes, then clean and degrease, put the metal prep on and keep it wet for 20mins wash off , dry and paint
the metal prep converts the rust and actually works better on the rust
pics below of axle rust removal in a washing soda solution in the plastic tank I left it overnight. once I got going did the backplates hubs and springs and later the chassis

any pics before and after soda dip? (without brushing)

Not sure pc just crashed, it comes out with a black residue on this can be removed mostly with a kitchen scourer , where rust was thick and scaled a tap with welding hammer chipped it off and underneath partially affected, so the cup brush was still needed on the stubborn bits or just put it back in for a few more hours