copper washers under the injectors

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d9022

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land of the oppressed
Any handy tips on getting them out, I've tried most things in my tool box, little screwdriver, dentists toothpicker, scriber. The little buggers are stuck in tight an I'd hate to put in new injectors on top of old washers .
The little steel ones came out no problem
 
It is usually the little steel ones that are a bugger ! May be you can find a bolt that will start its thread in the copper. Me iI would leave em it is the steel ones that play up and fook up the running.
 
Your steel washers go into the hole first, and sit underneath the copper washers, so it looks like someone has not put it together properly!

Best bet is to make sure that you get them out and replace them with the washers the right way round, with the taper on the steel washer to the top.
 
You can get a special tool for removing injector washers for not much money off eBay or from a local motor factors.
 
d9022, Have you got access to an injector test pump? they should pop off at around 140/150 atmospheres and give a good spray pattern. You could try advancing the pump timing if it is black smoke, be sure to slacken the injector pipes and move the pump around about 1mm at a time anticlockwise.
 
d9022, Have you got access to an injector test pump? they should pop off at around 140/150 atmospheres and give a good spray pattern. You could try advancing the pump timing if it is black smoke, be sure to slacken the injector pipes and move the pump around about 1mm at a time anticlockwise.

130-135 bar
 
"130/135 bar" Thanks James the old memory is going, last time I buggered about with mine I settled on 140 seems to run OK. Have put a note in with the test pump now for the new figure. May struggle to be arsed doing again though.
 
Tested all injectors and they all pop at 150 they have a good spray.
One thing I noticed was that the spay seemed to go at at a slight angle from straight out
is that normal?. The smoke is white.
 
From what James has told us 150 is high, mine seems to run OK at 140.
I am unsure on white smoke to give any thoughts re pump timing, white smoke is usually sign of head gasket problems. Maybe James will advise.
If you do change the gasket remove the injectors and re torque after warm up and again after 500 or so miles. A pain I know but if not done they can blow around pushrod area.
 
Your spray pattern should be slightly offset from centre, so that's nothing to worry about.

It sounds as though you need to advance your pump by a degree or so.

White smoke usually means that your timing is slightly retarded.
 
From what James has told us 150 is high, mine seems to run OK at 140.
I am unsure on white smoke to give any thoughts re pump timing, white smoke is usually sign of head gasket problems. Maybe James will advise.
If you do change the gasket remove the injectors and re torque after warm up and again after 500 or so miles. A pain I know but if not done they can blow around pushrod area.

there are 2 types of white smoke ,water vapour and unburned diesel ,cam timing if retarded too far can give white smoke
 
My 2.5 used to belch out a heck of a lot of white smoke, it was a bit like a thick mist when it was started up in the garage :D Advanced the pump timing a bit and now there is no smoke and it runs a lot smoother.

Might be worth giving it a go on yours?
 
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