Connector behind kick panel

thepipersson · Jan 15, 2014

I know its late but can anyone help, I have a couple of hours to kill at work and of course because Im at work I havent got access to my copy of the rave manual.

What I would like is a copy of the wiring diagram for the connector behind the kick panel, basically I want to find out what wires I need to test for the front left height sensor, so I can check them out before replacing it.

If anybody has a copy and wouldnt mind emailing it to me, it would be most appreciated.

Many thanks

mcapinha · Jan 15, 2014

Sent you a PM.

wammers · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
I know its late but can anyone help, I have a couple of hours to kill at work and of course because Im at work I havent got access to my copy of the rave manual.

What I would like is a copy of the wiring diagram for the connector behind the kick panel, basically I want to find out what wires I need to test for the front left height sensor, so I can check them out before replacing it.

If anybody has a copy and wouldnt mind emailing it to me, it would be most appreciated.

Many thanks

The height sensors do not go through any of the plugs behind the kick panel. They go direct to the ECU. The plugs behind the kick panel connect the height selector switch to the ECU.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

mcapinha said:
Sent you a PM.

wammers said:
The height sensors do not go through any of the plugs behind the kick panel. They go direct to the ECU. The plugs behind the kick panel connect the height selector switch to the ECU.

Thanks mcapinha that's well handy, I can now read it to my hart's content at work great stuff

Wammers, do you know what wires i have to check off the top of your head?

wammers · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
Thanks mcapinha that's well handy, I can now read it to my hart's content at work great stuff

Wammers, do you know what wires i have to check off the top of your head?

On ECU. Pin 3 Orange/Yellow power. Pin 5 Orange/Green signal. Pin 24 Black ground.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

wammers said:
On ECU. Pin 3 Orange/Yellow power. Pin 5 Orange/Green signal. Pin 24 Black ground.

That's great, thank you so much.. Ill be checking that tomorrow

now what to do, guess I could try and find some work to do

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

wammers said:
On ECU. Pin 3 Orange/Yellow power. Pin 5 Orange/Green signal. Pin 24 Black ground.

Ok so I have found that I have no continuity from Pin 24 to the sensor under the vehicle, As said before I'm no sparky and don't want you to think that I know what I'm doing because I don't.

Now I've had a look through Rave and the ECU socket for the EAS says no face view, so I'm really struggling to find where it goes from Pin24, I'm guessing I'm going to have to test continuity coming in to that socket (so that pin 24 is getting earth in, to put it out) and then also test from pin 24 to the sensor via a connector??? can anybody give me some tip's on where to test colours of cables that I may not have, all I'm going off is what Wammers kindly supplied, that maybe enough for all I know (I'm a simpleton after all)

Many thanks

wammers · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
Ok so I have found that I have no continuity from Pin 24 to the sensor under the vehicle, As said before I'm no sparky and don't want you to think that I know what I'm doing because I don't.

Now I've had a look through Rave and the ECU socket for the EAS says no face view, so I'm really struggling to find where it goes from Pin24, I'm guessing I'm going to have to test continuity coming in to that socket (so that pin 24 is getting earth in, to put it out) and then also test from pin 24 to the sensor via a connector??? can anybody give me some tip's on where to test colours of cables that I may not have, all I'm going off is what Wammers kindly supplied, that maybe enough for all I know (I'm a simpleton after all)

Many thanks

All the grounds (black wires) from all the height sensors are spliced together at splice S116 then by single black wire to Pin 24. If you have no continuity from sensor plug to Pin 24 i would think there is a break in the black wire between the sensor plug and splice S116. You must have continuity from all the other sensors to Pin 24 via splice S116 or they would also be faulting.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

wammers said:
All the grounds (black wires) from all the height sensors are spliced together at splice S116 then by single black wire to Pin 24. If you have no continuity from sensor plug to Pin 24 i would think there is a break in the black wire between the sensor plug and splice S116. You must have continuity from all the other sensors to Pin 24 via splice S116 or they would also be faulting.

Right again! lol after reading that I thought that cant be right, so I double checked and I now have continuity at the sensor (I was using a long bit of wire from in the car to underneath, I pulled it out and put it back in, so I either miscounted or just didn't have it quite in enough

)

So after a long week, and pestering you guys on here I "think" you guys have managed to narrow it down to a dodgy sensor....?

That will be getting replaced tomorrow!! SO my question now is, I have a working ECU for my EAS, I have continuity to the sensor so if I replace the sensor should it a) solve the 0:FL signal incorrect, B) if it does and that is the only fault coming up on the software, do you think it will rise from the ashes??

wammers · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
Right again! lol after reading that I thought that cant be right, so I double checked and I now have continuity at the sensor (I was using a long bit of wire from in the car to underneath, I pulled it out and put it back in, so I either miscounted or just didn't have it quite in enough)

So after a long week, and pestering you guys on here I "think" you guys have managed to narrow it down to a dodgy sensor....?

That will be getting replaced tomorrow!! SO my question now is, I have a working ECU for my EAS, I have continuity to the sensor so if I replace the sensor should it a) solve the 0:FL signal incorrect, B) if it does and that is the only fault coming up on the software, do you think it will rise from the ashes??

It has a good chance see what you get.

Datatek · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
Right again! lol after reading that I thought that cant be right, so I double checked and I now have continuity at the sensor (I was using a long bit of wire from in the car to underneath, I pulled it out and put it back in, so I either miscounted or just didn't have it quite in enough)

So after a long week, and pestering you guys on here I "think" you guys have managed to narrow it down to a dodgy sensor....?

That will be getting replaced tomorrow!! SO my question now is, I have a working ECU for my EAS, I have continuity to the sensor so if I replace the sensor should it a) solve the 0:FL signal incorrect, B) if it does and that is the only fault coming up on the software, do you think it will rise from the ashes??

After fitting the sensor, you will have to clear the fault, then if all is OK you may need to adjust the height.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

Datatek said:
After fitting the sensor, you will have to clear the fault, then if all is OK you may need to adjust the height.

Good stuff, a bit more light reading tonight then whilst at work on how to do that..... now that is being optimistic!

Datatek · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
Good stuff, a bit more light reading tonight then whilst at work on how to do that..... now that is being optimistic!

EAS software, good idle, hit the unlock EAS button.

Re-read the faults, the only one you might see if all is well is "Vehicle has moved", this can be ignored.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

Datatek said:
EAS software, good idle, hit the unlock EAS button. Re-read the faults, the only one you might see if all is well is "Vehicle has moved", this can be ignored.

"Vehicle has moved":laugh: Chance would be a fine thing, it's not going no where like that!

So when I unlock it and all is well (which WILL be tomorrow:rofl

how long do you think I would have to wait for the whole thing to inflate?

Datatek · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
"Vehicle has moved":laugh: Chance would be a fine thing, it's not going no where like that!

So when I unlock it and all is well (which WILL be tomorrow:rofl how long do you think I would have to wait for the whole thing to inflate?

Depends on compressor condition and the possibility of leaks. Leave a door open for 5 to 10 minutes to freeze the suspension, shut the door and it should rise. (diagnostics removed of course) It's just possible you may have to push the "UP" button on the dash control to prod it into life, has happened to me a couple of times.

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

I cant believe it!!! Remember I said if I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any.... WELL, I just thought I'd give it another go before buying the sensor tomorrow had the engine running still had no joy with the software, and I saw a red flash from the corner of my eye.... the temperature was sky high :jaw: :mad2: :mad2: :frusty: :frusty: :censored:

Water was low, it's too dark to see what's going on... I only had a new rad in it before it went, I so hope it's only the water pump and not the head.... I very much doubt that though, there was no water ****ing out of anywhere, and I fear that could only mean to me the water has gone somewhere, no signs of water in the oil though but that could just because I saw it straight away, could it not??? FFS

Datatek · Jan 16, 2014

If water is disappearing, have you checked the O rings? I can't remember but if it's a diesel, something is seriously wrong if it overheated at idle. My scrapper with a cracked head would idle for ever with no sign of an overheat.

wammers · Jan 16, 2014

thepipersson said:
I cant believe it!!! Remember I said if I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any.... WELL, I just thought I'd give it another go before buying the sensor tomorrow had the engine running still had no joy with the software, and I saw a red flash from the corner of my eye.... the temperature was sky high :jaw: :mad2: :mad2: :frusty: :frusty: :censored:

Water was low, it's too dark to see what's going on... I only had a new rad in it before it went, I so hope it's only the water pump and not the head.... I very much doubt that though, there was no water ****ing out of anywhere, and I fear that could only mean to me the water has gone somewhere, no signs of water in the oil though but that could just because I saw it straight away, could it not??? FFS

Just before everything went tits up, you didn't run over a black cat by any chance did you?

thepipersson · Jan 16, 2014

Datatek said:
If water is disappearing, have you checked the O rings? I can't remember but if it's a diesel, something is seriously wrong if it overheated at idle. My scrapper with a cracked head would idle for ever with no sign of an overheat.

I havent checked anything as yet, time is always against me.. I will have to do some swatting up on here as what to check and how to cure, It is a diesel, so you know have me very paranoid any suggestions on where to start?

wammers said:
Just before everything went tits up, you didn't run over a black cat by any chance did you?

No I only dropped a mirror on one

thepipersson · Jan 17, 2014

Datatek,
Please could you tell me what O rings you mean, I'm sure you have worked out by now that I'm a bit of a simpleton so in laymans terms would be great.

Thanks

Connector behind kick panel

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