Freelander 1 Clutch

I guess I already know the depressing answer to this question, but just now my clutch went to the floor and didn’t return; I was able to pull it up with my foot and now it’s working fine.

I am assuming this is a warning sign that the clutch is about to go, but is there any other advice or possible causes?

Thanks. I’ve a TD4, btw.

Edit: should add that it’s had a (very) low biting point since I purchased it over two years ago.

It’s likely the master cylinder and not the clutch, but I would change both the master and slave,
Normally a high biting point means the clutch is worn, assuming you didn’t get any funny noises when you were operating the clutch,

As it’s a TD4 I gather it’s useful to change the DMF at the same time, are there any recommendations for manufacturers to use and avoid?

It’s not a job I’ll be attempting myself as I have neither the skills, equipment or space to do it.

DMF should be ok I have only ever heard of one being out of spec, and that had 240,000 miles on the clock

As it is a TD4 - slave is a big bill, dual mass and clutch change is even bigger bill !

I'd be changing the master which is a simple swap, quick release connector and easy removal from car. About £40 and it may sort it. If the clutch works and it was only the pedal sticking down it is either the master or the linkage. If the slave had gone it wouldn't recover so easily.

It’s booked in tomorrow, I’ll try just the master for now and hope.

All your advice is hugely appreciated, thank you.

Low clutch biting point is lost movement of the release assembly (master cylinder or play in the pedal assembly or air in the lines).

A high biting point is a worn clutch plate.

Spoke too so

Nodge68 said:

Low clutch biting point is lost movement of the release assembly (master cylinder or play in the pedal assembly or air in the lines).

A high biting point is a worn clutch plate.

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That’s useful to know the difference, thanks.

As it happened the car became undriveable so I’m currently waiting for the AA.

If getting the master cylinder replaced then whatever you do DO NOT go for cheap after market. I fitted one a year or two ago along with a new LUK clutch and slave and the bite point has been very low ever since.
If I was driving it all the time I'd have replaced it again but as SWMBO doesn't even notice the issue I let her get on with it.

Turns out it was the slave, so that’s being replaced right now.

Not exactly what I planned on getting myself for Christmas...

TSR2 said:

Turns out it was the slave, so that’s being replaced right now.

Not exactly what I planned on getting myself for Christmas...

Click to expand...

That's a bummer mate. Hope it's not too expensive.

Alibro said:

That's a bummer mate. Hope it's not too expensive.

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All done along with both rear brake lines and brake cylinders replaced for just over £700, so I can’t complain.