clutch woes.. think this is gonna be expensive!

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woohoo!!!!!

got that chuffin bolt out!

welded a nut on to it.. think the heat helped..

bad news followed!!

the actuator rod, connected to the clutch fork, can be pushed in and pulled out to its full length.. its still attached to the fork but the fork aint moving the clutch...

new clutch fork me thinks...

so tonite ive removed centre consol, both props, gearbox mounts and cracked all but one of the bell housing nuts..

need another extension for my socket set...

gearbox almost ready to slide back tmoz..
 
FFS make sure you fit a heavy duty fork on rebuild-good luck.I was almost by the back axle to get the last two top bell housing bolts/nuts,loads of extension bars
 
remove viscous fan, crossmember under box then tilt it backards.allows access to gearbox top nut.
the box is heavy nick, need some good way of supporting, specailly on refitting!
 
nick2303 said:
Cheers m8... Got some extra muscle comin to help tonite...
Click to expand...


If I remember correctly when I did one of ours:

1. Removed the exhaust and rear prop, for working room, both gear lever and the centre console;

2. The we put a trolley jack under the gearbox, removed the gearbox mounts either side.

3. Bear in mind the engine will be tilted, so we then put another trolley jack under the front of it - if you don't the engine will fall forwards on it's mounts, not good!!

3. Once all the all the bellhousing fixings were undone, we simply rolled the 'box backwards and rested it on the rear crossmember. This give about 10inches of space to replace the fork easily.

I reckon it's deffo a two handed job.
 
Cheers biglad...

What size threaded bar do I need to use to pull gearbox back to injun?
M10 or m8?

Guessin I screw em into the threaded holes in the back of the injun?
 
nick2303 said:
Cheers biglad...

What size threaded bar do I need to use to pull gearbox back to injun?
M10 or m8?

Guessin I screw em into the threaded holes in the back of the injun?
Click to expand...

threaded rod makes life a little harder than using bolts with their heads cut off - bolts just have a section of thread, the remainder is smooth allowing the box to be slid along far easier - chop the head off and cut a slot in the top to get a screwdriver into

7MM_BOLT_LONG.JPG
 
nick2303 said:
Cheers biglad...

What size threaded bar do I need to use to pull gearbox back to injun?
M10 or m8?

Guessin I screw em into the threaded holes in the back of the injun?
Click to expand...

To be honest, I didn't use any. The engine remained exactly at the right angle so when I rolled the 'box forward onto it, it just went straight.

I seem to recall that I left the gearbox in gear, so that it would remain lined up, while I replaced the fork. I believe I also put some copper grease grease on the main gearbox shaft so it would slide in easily (ooooh errrr missus:eek:)

For me the best thing was stripping away lots of stuff so that we had real working room.


Dave
 
the threaded rod/bolts trick is very handy if you are splitting the trany box off first

splitting it off halves the weight ish - which might make a lot of difference if you are having to manhandle it on your own without jacks/hoist etc
 
well..........

split the gearbox from the injun... thrust bearing seemed a bit noisy, so took it out....

pictures below..

pivot had not punched through the fork... more pictures below..


what the heck has caused that dramatic failure?
 

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Looks like you need to replace the fork, the release bearing, 2 x slipper pads, 1 x plastic clip.

My guess would be that the pads moved, therefore the releasing the bearing to get jammed up causing stress fractures in the fork.
 
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