Freelander 1 Clutch Replacement...

Hi Guys,
Sorry to bring this up again but i've trawled online too long now... its my first time working on a td4 i'm not stripping for parts, i'm currently doing a clutch replacement while working nights too so just taking it a bit at a time over a few days.

I've currently got every bolt out of the box although i've left the IRD in place, and removed the 4 bolts securing it to the box which i read online somewhere its possible to do this and now i've started to pry the box away from the engine... it started to come and now its stopped dead and seems to be the bottom giving me a problem.

my main question is.. is it possible to take out the box without removing the IRD?? it would be great if someone whos done this before could give me a few pointers.

thanks guys
Josh

I seam to remember there is a bolt hidden behind the IRD - but if its moving then stopping, I don't suppose that's it.

I presume you've removed the drive shaft to the front passenger side wheel?

Where on the IRD can you remember GrumpyGel ?? Its holding the IRD side of the box on the bottom.. im struggling to find the TD4 RAVE to check it but i'm starting to think it might be worth popping the IRD off tomorrow when i'm up after nights just to eliminate that and as a lot off people are asking the same question i'm also thinking of doing a write up on this.

I've not got a TD4, so don't know about the gearbox, just seam to remember seeing something about a bolt that's almost impossible to get to with the IRD in place. What I do know is that it is very difficult to reinstall a gearbox with the IRD still installed.

If you want a RAVE for the TD4, you can download a copy off my site...

http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/rave2000.iso

Its an ISO file, so you need to burn it to a CD or just open it as a drive on your PC using something like Virtual CloneDrive (which is what I use).

Personally, I'd completely remove the IRD from the box and move it aside, sitting it on the sub frame. It's an absolute barstuard to get both the clutch and IRD splines lined up, if it's still fitted.

^^^ It doesn't take that long to take the IRD off. Even if it does take longer, I'd rather spend extra time moving things out of the way than a shorter time struggling, swearing and getting black thumbnails.

Thanks guys I'm definitely getting that IRD off I didn't think or struggling to get the two splines to meet up afterwards I just wanted one less thing to lift back up as I am doing it on the drive all off my back which does become a pain in its self... Thanks GrumpyGel for that link I'm currently waiting for it to load on the tablet although I'm only on 4G so might have to wait for the wifi later.

There's no actual need to completely remove the IRD. It can be unbolted and moved towards the drivers side of the sub frame, where it will sit quite happily. I use those cheap luggage pull straps to keep it from moving should it be knocked.
Obviously the drivers side drive shaft will need to be pulled from the IRD, which means the lower ball joint will need popping. The pulled drive shaft can be tied up out of the way, again using cheap luggage straps.
Be warned, doing a clutch change on your back isn't fun, but there's a nice feeling of accomplishment once it's done.
I don't have the inclination to do things like that these days, hence I have an auto.

I'm well into it Nodge68 and the IRD had to come off in the end which I'm happy about because I found my leak on coolant I had it's got a little hole in the heater transfer plate on the IRD so it looks like a new one!!

Another quick update on this... I'm glad the IRD came off in the end i had a slight coolant leak which i have found, its a little hole on the oil cooler plate at first i thought i caught it but i cant have done because its not squashed

If you have the time please right a 'how to' for this job. I did a K series clutch last year but not a TD4 yet.

My clutch is due for replacement so I am following this with interest.
Now I have read that the slave cylinder is tecommended to be replaced at the same time, theres a reccomended make that escapes me.
please could someone remind me which is the reccomended for the slave cylinder.

cheers

Alibro said:

If you have the time please right a 'how to' for this job. I did a K series clutch last year but not a TD4 yet.

Click to expand...

Yes I'll try and get it in a step by step guide... I best take some pictures as I put her back together!!