Clutch judder/ cant engage gear

04 td4 is showing clutch issues, at low speeds in 1st or reverse there is a judder and today it wouldnt select 3rd gear unless stuck into 4th first then brought forward.

It got a replacement slave and master cylinder and new clutch fitted at 51k, it's now got 69k on the clock. The parts were supposed to be landrover genuine but i cant be sure of it.

Am i looking at having to replace the system again?

judder ,wouldnt think hydraulic system would cause that more like worn clutch or dual mass flywheel ,poor selection could be sign of air in hydraulic system or worn clutch cover not clearing properly

Thanks for the reply, i didnt get the flywheel replaced when the clutch was renewed, the garage said it was fine.

Could the flywheel be the cause of it?

Local garage i use is £30+vat labour but the gearbox in/out is a 7 hour job so im looking at £240+vat before i change a single part. This could be expensive.

dual mass fly wheel should be changed with clutch ,flywheel is clutch damper ,clutch plate doesnt have damper springs as they used too,unless completely knackered they can be hard to judge condition of

So how much is a new flywheel then, is it typical LR prices of pick a number, times it by 5 and add a 0 to the end, plus vat?

I thought i wouldnt get any issues from the system for years, it hasnt even done 2 years.

mine judders a bit when the engine is cold. soon wears off though

RAC just left, the fluid in the system is at the brim so there is no leakage of fluid.

However, there is a lack of pressure for the first inch or so of travel so he thinks the master cylinder is at fault. Possible piston sticking so not getting full travel on pedel.

Ive also got a knock from the joint in my 5 week old genuine LR drop link. So that will need to get sorted and ill need to get my whine from underneigh looked at as well as thats getting louder.

Joy

I had the low clutch pedal thing too, it was half way down before it did anything, today i opened the bleed nipple and let the fluid run through while topping it up at the reservoir, i gave it a pump on the pedal from time to time, open the nipple push the pedal down, it stays down, close the nipple and then pull the pedal back up slowly. i got some grey slime out with the milky clutch fluid, closed it all up and moved on to the master cylinder, get your head under the dash and you will see where the rod links the pedal to the master cylinder piston, i pushed the pedal down and sprayed WD40 into the hole, ensure the rod is secure where it is fixed to the pedal. I only found it slightly better while in the driveway, after a couple of miles the pedal is better than it has ever been, light and only a half inch freeplay.