Clutch gave up the ghost

Evening all,
My Clutch pedal has been getting very hard and squeaky when the engine is warm for a while now, and the other day it gave up the ghost, the pedal fell to the floor but I managed to get it to a safe area.
While waiting for the RAC I fiddled with the pedal and it gained pressure again, but on starting the engine and trying to engage it made a sound like wheel nuts in a tumble dryer.
The RAC man said it was most likely the clutch pressure plate, but managed to punch past the noise from the clutch and crawl me the half a mile up the road home.
Now.... I am gonna have a go at doing the clutch myself, So far the rear prop is off , the centre console is out, and I am starting taking the exhaust out in prep to drop the gear box down.
What I would like to know is any hints or tips on what to do next.
I have my Haynes Manual but would love a link to a do this, do that, with pics site.
Is there any way I can drop the box without an engine hoist?
And how do I get that fan off? Is there a tool I can pick up?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance from a newbie with ambition.

sounds like clutch release bearing through diaphragm spring-common issue

I have ordered a new Plate, cove,r bearing and pressure plate, I thought it best to do the lot while I am working in the area.

Thanks for the reply.

I would be getting a modified/heavyduty clutch fork as well if it was me.

Deffo get the heavy duty fork-crazy not to

Did mine like this guide:Discovery clutch change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Thanks for the advice, I have just ordered the heavy duty fork.

New spigot bearing and rear crankshaft seal would also be advisable .

Revi said:

I have ordered a new Plate, cove,r bearing and pressure plate, I thought it best to do the lot while I am working in the area.

Thanks for the reply.

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Hi Revi, it is ESSENTIAL that you also get in stock the following parts:

1. Reinforced or Heavy Duty clutch fork;
2. Actuating rod and plastic clip;
3. Slipper pads and plastic retaining clip;
4. Phospher bronze centring ferrule.

Also make you you have plenty of copper grease.

It's a fairly big job so my advice is always replace everything while you're in there.

You'll need two trolley jacks and a good strong pal to assist.

Get the impression I've done this before??????????????????

Good luck

Dave

Revi, where are you in London I'll help you if you help me do mine

Mark

i did mine a few weeks ago. Found it alot easier with hoist, those boxes are bloody heavy. Many thing to watch out for are the two top bolts a swine to get at. I t can be done with two jacks and a buddy thou. My spinner plate had blown up


IMG]http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp349/alex8882/606_DSC01024_1.jpg[/IMG]

You may find it easier to take the engine out - a Rangies expert I know and the Haynes Manual both suggest this. It's easier to align when putting back together - trying to manouvre the gearbox sitting on a couple of trolley jacks aint the easiest thing to do,

Even if you do take the gearbox out, you'll probably want to remove the engine mountings, and lower the engine as far as you can. Then get every extension bar you can for your socket set - you'll need two to three feet! Slide along the top of the gearbox and get an assistant to guide the socket onto the bolt heads.

I took the engine out to do mine. That's when I found the engine mountings were shot! Took me and a mate about a day and a half, but then we aren't professionals. My problem was the clutch release bearing. It had been rattling for a while, but luckily, didn't fail. However, when we took it off the haft, it fell apart! The bearing is in a nylon holder which wears out long before the clutch does.

I agree with outher posters about bits to replace, with possible exception of rear engine seal. you've got to be really careful replacing those, and read the instructions very carefully. I would advise downloading the RAVE CD and reading that as well as Haynes before doing the bearing, and not a bad idea for the rest.

Good Luck.

I agree with graham. If your trolley jacks. But i used the hoist, so lining up was a doddle. Plus some kind person, who did the clutch last time didn't put the top bolts back in. So me a nd 300tdi stu, got it done in about 7 hours start to finish. Anyways which ever way you do good luck with matey.

mmm that bring back memories and after 7 hrs under a 300tdi i looked like this

Thanks gents, the box is now off, It was the Bearing that had gone, Bits of plastic all over the place, Also got to replace the exhaust as it look like someone had been shooting it with an AK47, How they passed the mot on it I will never know. I have replaced the Plate and the cover etc and will now be looking for the rest of the bits and bobs suggested. I did notice that the fork had no retaining clips on it at all, does anyone have a link to a site that sells them as my shop hadn't a clue. Been on it two days so far but that was down to some real rusty bolts. Again, thanks for the help.

Revi said:

Thanks gents, the box is now off, It was the Bearing that had gone, Bits of plastic all over the place, Also got to replace the exhaust as it look like someone had been shooting it with an AK47, How they passed the mot on it I will never know. I have replaced the Plate and the cover etc and will now be looking for the rest of the bits and bobs suggested. I did notice that the fork had no retaining clips on it at all, does anyone have a link to a site that sells them as my shop hadn't a clue. Been on it two days so far but that was down to some real rusty bolts. Again, thanks for the help.

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Paddocks know all the little bits and pieces involved in a clutch job, that's where I get mine.

Dave

Evening,
I have a few more questions i would like your opinion on before I reattach the gear box for peace of mind.
Inside the bell housing and behind the flywheel part of the housing I found it about 1 mm thick with black sticky oil/grease along with the bits of smashed bearing plastic.
My question, is that normal as while looking at web pages for guides for the job, I didn't see much evidence of grease.
Are there Bell housings new or does this grease point to another issue.

Question two, When i removed the housing the only thing holding on the fork was the built in clip on the back, There was no retaining clips of any sort neither was there a guide for the clutch slave cylinder rod in the whole to the left of the housing, the rod was just floating in there with the rubber seal from the cylinder round it.
Obviously these bits need to be replaced but i am having a nightmare trying to track them down in one place.
Can anyone send me web links to where they are on the paddocks site?

Thanks in advance.

Mick

Revi said:

Evening,
I have a few more questions i would like your opinion on before I reattach the gear box for peace of mind.
Inside the bell housing and behind the flywheel part of the housing I found it about 1 mm thick with black sticky oil/grease along with the bits of smashed bearing plastic.
My question, is that normal as while looking at web pages for guides for the job, I didn't see much evidence of grease.
Are there Bell housings new or does this grease point to another issue.

Question two, When i removed the housing the only thing holding on the fork was the built in clip on the back, There was no retaining clips of any sort neither was there a guide for the clutch slave cylinder rod in the whole to the left of the housing, the rod was just floating in there with the rubber seal from the cylinder round it.
Obviously these bits need to be replaced but i am having a nightmare trying to track them down in one place.
Can anyone send me web links to where they are on the paddocks site?

Thanks in advance.

Mick

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Hi Mick, just give Paddocks a call and discuss it with them, they won't bite . Their number is on their site:

www.paddockspares.co.uk

Thanks big Lad, Found the clips and bits they are now on order. Just need to know about that greasy bell housing, Normal for a 13 year old motor ? or signs of another issue?

Hi again,
reference my last few questions, could the reason for all the oils/grease in the bell housing be due to a failed crankshaft rear oil seal????
Should I replace this anyway.

Thanks

Revi said:

Hi again,
reference my last few questions, could the reason for all the oils/grease in the bell housing be due to a failed crankshaft rear oil seal????
Should I replace this anyway.

Thanks

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Whilst you have the bellhousing off it would make excellent sense to do anything else in there - so yes renewing the crankshaft seal would be a very good idea.

In general within the bellhousing there is likely to be some muck, either grease and/or oil. When you reassemble clean everything carefully and put copper grease (definitely not ordinary grease) on the splined shaft.