Cleaning rusty bits on your series using electrolysis

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pegibson

New Member
Posts
202
Hi there,
I wanted an easy way to de-rust brackets etc on my series 3, without all the hard work.
I am not a chemist or physicist, I am an engineer, so this was the solution to my problem...
This method works well, after lots of trials to get it right.
You will need.

A plastic bucket.
A 12v car battery charger.
A piece of (mild) steel, Iron,,,, NOT stainless... creates chromium in the water, NOT GOOD.
A wire brush.
A small paint scraper.
A packet of washing soda crystals, 99p from Morrisons, Tesco etc. ( electrolyte)

1: fill the bucket with cold water, depending on how big your part is, depends how much water, your part must be completly submerged.
Mix 1 cup of soda crystals into the water.

2: I clamped a big bolt to the edge of the bucket, (mild steel), 2/3rds under water, with enough out of the water for charger electrode to attach to.
The piece of mild steel will be a sacrificial anode, so must have a good electrical connection to the charger, I used a file to give me a nice clean connection.
Attach + electrode of charger to bolt or other mild steel, (charger unplugged at this stage)

3: The piece you want cleaning must have good conductivity in the area where the - electrode is to attach, again use a grinder or file, it only needs a small clean bit of metal though,
no need to spend hours grinding away.

4: Attach - electrode to piece, place in water gently, ( it does'nt matter if charger - electrode goes under water too)

5: A few checks before plugging in the charger, make sure the + is on sacrificial anode, because it will rust, HEAVILY.
Make sure the + is not in the water, or will not fall in the water.

6: Plug in charger.
The piece with the + on will start bubbling, and producing a green/brown iron hydroxide scum around it, almost instantly. (NO SMOKING OR NAKED FLAMES)
The piece to be cleaned will be bubbling too, lots of small cleaner bubbles, hydrogen gas( if just the - electrode bubbles and not piece, you have a bad connection)

I left it in the bucket for 12-24 hours, only because I was working in the day, I would put it in and leave over night, and take it out after work.

Un-plug charger first, and stick your hands in (use latex gloves) and pick out your piece.
Use the wire brush and brush away, and small scraper too, the rust will just come off without any effort,
it will be blackened too after cleaning, (black oxide).

This process will strip paint too, so be warned if its something you dont want removing.
I will not be held responsible for any damage etc, I offer this info as advise only, Just remember, be safe, safety first, and NO naked flames.
 
not wise - Chrome plating solution is a known carcinogen and causes chrome ulcers and nasal perforations. A garage in a (presumably) residential area is no place for it. What if you break a beaker and the chrome leaches into the water supply? One reason that governments want shops to have licenses and permits is so you must report such accidents so they can fine you the cost of the cleanup and supervise it. The kind of copper plating you are contemplating is done out of a cyanide solution; cyanide should only be used under careful control in an industrial setting.
 
not wise - Chrome plating solution is a known carcinogen and causes chrome ulcers and nasal perforations. A garage in a (presumably) residential area is no place for it. What if you break a beaker and the chrome leaches into the water supply? One reason that governments want shops to have licenses and permits is so you must report such accidents so they can fine you the cost of the cleanup and supervise it. The kind of copper plating you are contemplating is done out of a cyanide solution; cyanide should only be used under careful control in an industrial setting.

cheers fer the advice mate ill send these off to be done :D:D:D:D
 
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