Central locking need help please

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moodz66

New Member
Posts
10
Location
Maidstone
Hi I have a 97 p38 4.0 se
The key fob locks all the doors remotely and arms alarm as it should
But when you use the fob to unlock the car thereis a clunk noise but the car stays locked
If you use the key in the door, all the car doors unlock and the alarm disarmed as it should,
If you then press the unlock button on the fob the doors all lock ????????
No warning lights
No big deal but a pain
The lights on the fob flash when iether button pressed
Had all door locks replaced 3 years ago been working okay til recently

Help please
 
Last edited:
Hi

Gave the old girl a good service today, also took driver door card off all as should be with linkages worth a look though !

Lubed up locks etc while in there

Reckon it must be RF unit. But strange it locks all th doors but just clonks on the unlock button and turns alarm off but no doors unlock

Have no low battery on the car or indicated for the fob, ( does the 97 Se have the dash fob low battery warning ???

ANY more suggestions please would be good
 
Hi

Gave the old girl a good service today, also took driver door card off all as should be with linkages worth a look though !

Lubed up locks etc while in there

Reckon it must be RF unit. But strange it locks all th doors but just clonks on the unlock button and turns alarm off but no doors unlock

Have no low battery on the car or indicated for the fob, ( does the 97 Se have the dash fob low battery warning ???

ANY more suggestions please would be good
If it clonks and turns off the alarm, it cannot be the FOB or the RF receiver. It will most likely be a problem with the drivers door lock mechanism and/or the micro switches.
 
Logically your issue must be inside the driver's door lock. Mechanically (key) the internal mechanism is triggering the other locks. Electrically (remote) it's moving but seemingly not enough to operate the switches to unlock the other doors. Whilst the locks are internally fairly simple mechanisms I'd just bite the bullet and replace it.
 
Yes, when you get the lock out its just some screws to separate the lock body. Open it carefully so the innards don't spring everywhere. The micro switch block just upclips from the body. Spray with contact cleaner and check operation with a mulit meter. Do a search, someone posted pictures of the internals:)
 
Hi guys still need advice just fitted brand new driver side lock mech fiddly job but could have been worse,

Still no change the fob locks the doors all okay alarm on but does not unlock any of the doors but if the car unlocked ( with key in door)pressing the unlock button on the fob locks the doors to ???

I have also replaced batteries and buttons on fob both LEDS flash on fob okay

I also had good look at wiring in the door all looks good, the door lock that come off looks new,

I also disconnected the battery and cleaned up all earths I could find. then re-set windows etc all okay

Any ideas would be most appreciated
 
The voltages I read from the wires to the actuator are in this thread: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/central-locking-mystery-197167.html

Mine's the earlier one with 2 plugs going into the actuator. It changed later to a a single plug but not sure when. The wiring diagrams are in RAVE. To lock it sends a pulse to the actuator. The pulse is short but more than the motor is rated for so it spins briefly VERY fast spinning out the silver bit and triggering the lock. Not sure if the pulse polarity is reversed to unlock. Cannot remember.

If it isn't a dodgy wire then you could try swapping the outstations over and seeing if that helps?
 
The single black wire can get caught by the window as it comes down if it isn't clipped in properly causing it to break inside and do odd things. Case of going along flexing it and seeing if anything happens or taking resistance readings.
 
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